qatmix

I've gave mine a little spin in the 418. Seemed very responsive and a large range of throttle movement I'm now fitting it all in properly. Has anyone shortened the leads on theirs? I have just crimped the servo to have a nice short lead, although the wire seems thinner on the Fleta.

All hardware mod stuff requires you to run it as administrator from windows 7 You can set the stock to blinky by just taking off the boost and turbo and the esc will revert to blinky

nice! I'm sure it will be fine after a few laps, I'm only going down to meet up and have a bit of fun, next year I will fight for the win

Well, in my 'Rocky' style preparation for Rug Racers I have been checking out a load of videos... ULP that podium is pretty far away! I might get an eye test before I come down!

Ok, slight error on my part. The Track star is similar to the Reedy (You can fit the stator between both), they dont offer quite as much end bell timing as the reedy. The Muchmore is similar again to them but the stator is slightly different(something to do with the shaft on visual inspection). I would reckon they all are made in the same factory with slightly different specifications etc UPDaTE - after looking on the web it seems that the Trackstar, reedy, Dynamite, Muchmore are all very similar although not exactly the same. Basically the Trackstar is mint for the money.

The track stars are excellent. We tested one against the ZX and the ZX revved higher, and came off cooler but they must be made in the same factory as they look very similar inside. The ZX motors have different rotors, the UK ones are W spec and are the most beefy If I wasn't so bothered I would have got the turnigy but I wanted the matching ZX motor as it looks pretty

cool, yep that is definitely a TB evo V

Post a couple of close ups (The front and rear bulkheads) and then I can tell you.

Most servo's are the same size, you need to trim off the top lug of the servo to fit it in the TB evo 4. Do you have the manual?

Looks nice, but isn't that an evo 4 not a 5? Nice car and a big step up from the TL01

Despite not being in fashion, a ball diff is still very useful in the rear. You can easily adjust it to the layout of the track by gently tightening / loosening the diff. They are very reliable, they just need a bit more servicing than a gear diff. I still have one that I use in my car when racing at a new track, I tune the diff then once the car feels good I can add the correct oil to the gear diff.

M03 parts are very easy to still get, most of the consumables are the same as the M05 anyway.

You wont be able to make the ball diff like a 2.5 million gear diff. You can stiffen it up but if you want it to still have diff action it cant be that tight as the balls need to actually rotate. Do you already have a gear diff in the rear? if so pop that in the front with the oil, and use the ball diff in the rear. You can obviously stiffen the ball diff up, but it wont be anything like as stiff as a 2.5 million gear diff.

You are talking about the re-release kits. Associated want you to spend

That price for the whale tail shells is for the Boxed bodyset, used examples go for much less

The turnigy 4wd is a great entry level car for around

The wrc shell can be bought new for about

cool, cheers for that mate. I do use Sorex at the club (28's) but just slap some additive on (CS grip) and no warmers etc. I do have some warmers which I will bring as well. Also I have a set of lightly used 32's so I would imagine I could use them on the day if I didnt want to buy a new set. I have the right spur / pinion combos for those FDR's (I raced a FDR of 4 at the BIWS but it seems that people can run as low as 3.1!!

Cheers for the vote of confidence mate. Looking forward to meeting up with you guys, I'm quite pragmatic about the actual racing though as I wont have driven on Sorex 32's etc

I always found the G35 a very neutral shell (more so than the Mazda 6)I do like it it though (In fact all Blitz shells are really well made)

The TSX is great, the steering of a ltc-r and the stability of the speed 6. Been after a GX, be good to hear how it goes

I have booked in for March. TRF418, fleta pro and the fleta ZX motor (I thought about the team wave but its heavier and its got red on the can (which will clash with the blue) At least it will look nice when its coming last

To be fair, shiming a TT01 can take a fair bit of slop out. Add bearings, aluminium prop and turnbuckles and thays all you need to do. I've seen a well tuned TT01 (with a minimum amount of hop ups) get into the A final at our club. It was a quality moment the driver was a National champion (bikes not cars)

The sanwa is a much better servo than the savox if you can get it for that price.

As mentioned above, just a few 0.1mm thick 5mm shims will stop the wheels moving, just ensure that you dont actually bind the axle with too many shims. I usually use only 1 shim between the pin and the bearing (then attach the alloy hex). I put the rest of the shims on the other side of the axle (inside) you will be surprised how few you need to reduce it. There is not that much problem with a bit of slop, it ensures the car is quite neutral. The less slop, the more precise the handling of a car, which is fine when you are on top of your game and can check for tweak etc regularly, but for more casual club racing it can give you a car that just changes how it feels every time you clip a barrier.