qatmix

Yep, that's a TA01. The tyres for this wheels are really rare, just get some std wheels with tamiya rally block tyres. Next check it has ball bearings, older cars don't normally have them, they will make a massive difference in performance on the TA01. As mentioned that shell is a classic, keep it safe and just do light running with it, get anothe shell for hard rally, as you will need to pay

It's just as strong and is kinder to the belts once it wears as opposed to aluminium which can sawtooth.

I would use Delrin over aluminium any day of the week for pulleys

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/04/capricorn-rc-lab-te02-build-and-review.html Very nice car, getting some good results:)

I have a XV01. It's not very noisy at all. Disconnect your motor pinion and roll the car. It should roll freely if it doesn't then check your drive train. If it rolls well then check your motor mesh with the pinion to the spur gear. You always want a little gap between them to ensure you are not putting extra resistance on them.

The reventon R bundle is very popular at our club and they seem to run well. You will not get anything that would be as good value as that combo. I have used a reventon and it was fine, as well as a justock which was also good (by markets are quite mild though) my main car has a Fleta Pro and its great. Oh and the HPI motor isn't that good, as mentioned. The Turnigy track stars are very good for the money though.

Here is the first TB Evo 6 Cad picture released. As can be seen we do have the plastic Bulkheads, also note the floating servo mount and the motor mount looks very nice and accessible More info www.TheRcRacer.com

Right, so here is a little write up to set your TT02 to be blinky and get FDR's of low 3's for the larger tracks http://www.thercracer.com/2014/04/tamiya-tt02-175-215-and-vta-blinky.html

Brilliant stuff. Thats really good for your first day racing. Its much more important to get in the laps and improve your driving, the more you do that the sooner you will be chasing for the win. 17.5 is a great class.

I have been using my fan for a while, and its great. Temps are lower but I cant see the need to ever fit another. The weight / mess will be more hassle than the few degrees less temp.

Stockport RC car club is quite near, its very popular with 40 drivers racing touring cars. Most clubs are quite laid back as they just want racers who are having fun. The most popular combo is 13.5 as you can run boost etc on it.

I am writing a bit for the blog about the TT02 gearing for Blinky. I'm actually quite impressed with how it runs. As to belt tension, I run 2-3mm for mod motors (4.5 - 10.5) for slower ones I loosen it a little more (i have about 5mm for my 17.5 blinky car) it makes the car run more freely.

BTW, as an aside I now can get an FDR of 3.2 in a TT02!

Yep, the T4 is a great car. The Mi5 is also mint as mentioned though it is not as tough.

I had the TA05 carbon conversion, great car for foams as it was really stiff.

They made a 1/10 onroad before the M chassis cars. They were very good.

I was referring to the tip I was given about finding the motors sweet spot, and then gearing around that. Putting your motors to Max timing is not ideal for the motor if its not spinning optimally, you are best to get it spinning best and then gear it taller. I tested it, I had lower temps but with the same speed (running a lower FDR than with max timing to make up for it).

The TT02 is great for that, you can build it together, and then upgrade it together as he learns the basics.

You have probably the best versitile onroad chassis (XV01), The TT02 however is a good budget alternative. http://www.thercracer.com/2013/05/tamiya-tt02-build-and-review.html I really like mine, its much better than the TT01, I have also raced to to pretty good effect (Indoor and outdoor).

I used to do that as well, this guy is a national driver and was convincing in his argument to do it this way.

I was told for blinky that you tune the motor timing so the motor runs best (Listen, as you move the endbell as the motor revs, until the motor sounds like its not growling) then just leave it there and gear it accordingly and dont change the endbell ever again just gear it to get the speed / acceleration you want. Kinda makes sense, basically the argument is that on Max timing the motors are less efficient.

http://www.thercracer.com/2014/03/tamiya-dt03-neo-fighter-buggy-build-and.html Tamiya have definitely improved over the DT02. Its kinda like the TT02 of buggies.

Good call, I read it as sensored. That's a pretty misleading advert. Here is the Reventon R (Sensored) with 13.5 combo for

Tamiya ones are near damn indestructible never had one fail. Never seen a Schumacher one go kaput either. X-ray ones are the only ones that seem to break at our club.

Hi Guys, I am planning an onroad equivalent of the excellent DT02 challenge. This however will be an onroad race event open to TT01 and TT02 chassis cars. The track will be a permanent indoor carpet track in Blackpool and the event will be bi-annual with the first one arranged for 29th June (Tentative Date). There will be two main classes Stock - std cars with only oil shocks and prop shaft hop-ups running silvercan, sports tuned or Torque tuned motors. Mod - anything goes but a 13.5t brushless limit. There will also be a special Wheelie style race for WR02 / CW01 (Lunchbox, wheelies etc) with a prize for winning. The track is large, there will be a cafe open in the day and some prizes / Trophies. let me know if you are interested / your thoughts **** Hold off buying a car until its confirmed **** Thanks