C3PO

Not sure I'll be there on the 24th - depends entirely if I am working that day. I know exactly what you mean re cost: I will be selling one of my rifles to fund some more purchases. I really want those electronic tyre warmers

Yes -- the only problem is the Friday night meeting time which is difficult for me because of work. I actually enjoyed the marshalling too and watching the cars whizz around at high speed down the straight. Tinkering with set-ups too is fun. I bought a large leisure battery from Halfords today to make my set-up completely mobile. Had fun outside too with the Schumacher SST -- still goes like a bomb. Cracking little car.

Had my first race last night at Newbury RC car club -- an indoor circuit -- and what a blast it was. My driving was pretty dreadful though. The first heat was ridiculous .... I had more understeer with my Cyclone than the '08 Honda F1 car as I was trying to grapple with steering a car round bends coming towards you. Sorted the understeer by moving the front suspension uprights positions, thanks to a member of the club helping me. Anyway, had a fantastic time -- learnt a huge amount and a huge thanks to all the welcome and help from the guys there. My only frustration is my lack of ability (I'm not bad in a single seater sports car in RL ) with 1/10th scale touring vehicles.

I know there are 3.5 turn and possibly 2.5 turn motors around, but why not 1-turn motors?

Many thanks but I got so frustrated I went to my local model shop, Apex in Crowthorne, and they sorted it for me (free of charge ). I would love to know if there was a good guide around showing you how to soldier properly for model cars.

A 10.5 turn brushless is a great motor...

Any details of the ESC and pix?

I'm probably going to go brushless on my shcumacher sst ... I have had a wretched time this afternoon trying to solder the wires onto the modified motor. One of the motor contacts needs two wires soldered to it and it has been nothing short of a bloody nightmare trying to get them to stick. Clearly, you can tell I am frustrated...

Thanks -- took it apart again tonight and cleaned it up and all is fine ... well, until the motor terminated for good! A washer which sits on the spindle somehow got loose and jammed right inside the gubbins of the motor -- between the magnets and the thing that turns round. Result -- totally knackered and I cannot for the life of me get the washer out, jammed for good.

How do I skim the comm?

More D3 woes unfortunately After a couple of minutes use, the motor slows right down, and it's not the battery. There seemed to be a lot of sparking going on around the commutator so I cleaned it up again and the power returned, then it slowly began to fail again. The brushes seem ok, I wonder what else could be causing this.

Excellent, when is it due out?

Whoops -- already have! Got a Tamiya Subaru shell on its way to me from ModelSport. Rang around everywhere to get the pre-painted HPI Subaru shell in 190mm but no-one does them now apparently. Anyone know of any organisation that paints clear shells?

Hi -- I bought off ebay one of those virtual racing sim software packages containing a pistol USB controller to practice my technique -- it's a brilliant bit of kit! I have the trial version and will upgrade to the real thing soon. One question, do they cater for electric touring cars? They only seem to have nitro ones at the moment. Does anyone else use this software, if so what do you think of it?

Interesting thread ... to go Lipo, does the ESC or the motor need to be "LiPo" compatible, or could you run an older set-up with it? Also, why is the 3800mAH LiPo pack more expensive than the 5000mAH version?

Thanks again Garry ... I took a big step for me tonight and stripped down the motor (well, some of it) and you're right: inside had so much crap in it and dirt and a good clean -- plus some WD40 -- has cured the problem!

Hi Everyone, Run into a couple of problems and would be grateful for any help. 1. My Trinity D3 motor (very rarely used) is suddenly operating oddly. When you turn on the transmitter it runs fine, but after a few minutes nothing happens. Only after you give the car a little push does it move. Turning the big gear attached to the motor gets it going again too. Why should this happen? I don't think there is any dirt in the motor. 2. My new transmitter appears to be gobbling battey power like there's no tomorrow. Just ten minutes' use has seen it fall from 12.2 volts to 11.0 already. What is the best rechargeable solution with 8 x 1.5 AA batteries? Thanks in advance!

This looks like the perfect shell: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=23793 Presumably, they're made from the same, flexible, tough material as the normal Hot Bodies shells?

Many thanks Garry.

Could anyone recommend a pre-painted, drilled Sabaru bodyshell for a Schumacher SST chassis? I'm rubbish perparing them myself and running the car in its birthday suit doesn't do the aero much good...

Ah ... I've just bought an Ansmann Racing Sanwa 40MHz transmitter...

I've acquired sets of different slick tyres, each with different ratings from 32R down to 25R (I think 22 somewhere too) ... does this refer to the track temperature or the operating temperature of the tyre itself? If the latter, how presumably a hot day means 32 and a cold day 22 -- rate of tyre wear on a track being equal?

Superb summary, really, really good.

Hi Everyone, It's been a fair few months since I was on here last and this week I decided to give my RC set-up a run-out. Trouble was, the battery pack in the transmitter (Hi Tec Flash Pro 4 with 8-cell NiCad about 12 years old) has given up the ghost, will not charge and is "bubbling" at one end A replacement battery with correct white mini connector is around

Hi All, Reluctantly, I am selling my Hot Bodies Cyclone -- the Andy Moore Championship version. The car comes complete with: Chassis Four sets of wheels and tyres (used condition) Speed Passion Brushless 10.5 Turn motor ... used for 4 minutes Speed Passion "Grantourismo" Brushless ESC and ESC program unit (very useful!) used for 4 minutes Receiver unit (not transmitter) 2 batteries (including a virtually new 4200 Stick NiMH pack) Few other bits and bobs The underside of the chassis does have some minor scuff marks after I tested the set up on a road for three minutes. I would consider these to be relatively minor. This is a super piece of kit and would like it to go to a good new home where it is likely to be used. I'm selling up because there are no suitable tracks near me open at the time I am not working. Asking Price for the lot: