welsh

ok thanks for the info, so if you go for higher % fuel then you have to through like a mini breaking in process? What would the difference between 16 and 20% fuel, is will go quicker, less economical, hotter ? thanks for the info, always like to check what these hobby shops say is actually true

Hello spoke to LHS today and took my car in for repairs and he noticed some 16% tornado fuel in my bag. They sold me the car with 16% MT fuel. He said i shouldn't have changed the fuel make as once its run in they like the same fuel (they only sell MT fuel i thinks) So should you stick to the same fuel, i read here that MT fuel is crap and very oily, he laughed at that and said it had a mix of castor and synthetic oil and was good as it didnt oil up the pull start. So is he correct or just trying to sell me MT fuel? I alos asked about upping from 16% to 20% and said this was a bad idea as the car takes more air in and there is extra wear o nthe piston. IS this correct. Sorry for basic noob questions but wnated make sure. thanks Welsh

ok to ask again sorry here are some pics of the collet and setup anyhting look out of order? reason for the collet to keep stripping?!?! thanks ! http://img45.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1000779iz3.jpg http://img220.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1000781dc8.jpg

owb is the One Way bearing :-)

hello again, it seems that the reason the car would not go is because the flywheel is slipping on the collet and there are brass shavings all over the car. So i replaced both the flywheel and the collet but after 2 tanks of fuel there is lots of brass filings all over the car again and it wont move. It seems to be stripping the collets, is there anything that can be done to stop this happening? The hex which tightens the clutch bell and everything together is done up super tight.... ??? thanks

yeh but its not the slipper clutch slipping its something in the diff turning

as above but the slipper is as tight as poss and something is moving. I dont think its the slipper but the diff itself but i have tried to tighten the diff as much as poss, last time i snapped the screw? any ideas?

ok the slipper pad looks like theres lots of life left the clutch looks good the diff looks ok, the teeth are still all there and the ball bearings look round and ok! I have snapped the bloody diff screw though so its gonna be out for a while :-( I will rebuild it and see how it goes if all else fails it will go into my local lsn!! clutch slipper pad diff cogs the diff arm bit with 6 ball bearings

ok thanks, I got some proper XTM Hex drivers today so am confident to take a look at the diff. The slipper looks like there is life on there but dont really know what a wron one looks like. will get back to you I imagain, thanks for the help

yip i tightened the slipper clutch up so that when you hold the right wheel and the spur gear the left wheel will turn but its stiff (as it says here http://www.racernine.com/X-CellElec3.html ). also tightened up the diff via the hex key you can alter when you pop off the axles etc.

ok i have posted a video on youtube of the problem, sounds like it doesnt change up a gear or something. anyone have more ideas? Its running really slow and sounds rough as. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=GXcwUnZtvhc

lol this must be p****** you all off really appreciate the help. I have noticed that if i hold the slipper clutch cog tight and turn a wheel the other goes in opposite direction!! when i manually turn the spur gear the right wheel turns fine, however the left wheel turns but not as much. so if i turn the spur 5 times for example the left wheel will do a complete turn but the right will only move a quarter turn for example ? is this a diff problem? the manual says it may need altering after run in ? cheers

cheers Tonycat but i had loosened the nut on that, probly why its looks loose. OK so i turn the rear right wheel by hand and the left doesnt turn, i turn the right wheel by hand and they both turn in the same direction. strange...

ok when turning the flywheel the piston is now moving, however piston is tight when at the top of the engine and when i try and move the piston a full revolution the flywheel slips, however its done up as tight as poss!! gonna re build and see how it goes. many thanks for all the help :-) oh about the wheels is that serious when you turn one clockwise the other should rotate anti clockwise ?!?! mine dont do that

both wheels turn in the same direction. not even that sure what a diff look like. is it the cog that attaches to the clutch bell, it no on the engine but attached to the car? ALso if you manually turn the flywheel should the piston go up and down cause i am sure it used to but not anymore????? ok so looking at the photo, is the thing labelled 1 the diff??? also i have undone the nut at 2 how tight should this be, so the cog matches the cog bell thingy !!! cheers

rear diff, can i get easyaccess to that and post photos !! thanks

ok i have finally taken the engine out and have taken a picture of the clutch etc. looks ok to me but then I dont know. what do you think looking at the photos. any i should clean etc wit hthe engine out ? thanks

ok thanks

ah great in trying to get the hex undone i have rounded off the engine hex's just ******* great. what do you guys use for hex's the screw driver ones? needs to get me some of them and hope i havent messed them up too bad :-( cheers again will update when i get some proper drivers

ah bugger, how can i check, sorry a tad unsure

Hello i was running the car (XTM X-cellerator) last night and it was going well, but runnning hot it measured 300 F so i turned the car off and called it a night I try to run the car this evening and it is hard to start and when running was prone to stalling and when i accelerated the back wheels were hardly moving? anyone have any ideas? ALso if you manually turn the flywheel should the piston go up and down cause i am sure it used to but not anymore. thanks :-)

ok thanks guys, i have read the manual and followed that. I just cant seem to get the gap to stay when the break is applied. I will try again either tonight or tomorrow and let you know. thanks again for the input.

Technex, do you mean when the engine is running and idle? When the engine is off turning the screw by itself does nothing noticeable.

i can get it 1mm at idle but then when i break there is no gap and the car stalls. So is the idle screw very very sesitive? And i live in South West London :-)

the screw i am turning to change the idle is the little black one just below the card opening you can see on the photo. i had both the car and transmitter turned on but i wasnt moving anythig so i guess its neutral? i havent touched the throttle linkage, not even sure that is or how to do it. is that the throttle bit with spring on?!?! thanks :-)