Thunderwolf

Now we are getting somewhere. taken about 10 attempts but it finally printed a full cube from start to finish, its not perfect but its progress. quick look on the calipers shows that size wise its almost dead on, need to put the bed closer to the head by around 0.1mm to get the height right but other than that its dead on, which certainly pleases me. it did start lifting on the corners slightly, not enough to stop the print but enough to be noticeable, again some thing i can fix fairly easy (this was done directly on the bed with a 5mm brim and bed heated to 70c) i'm going to do another cube to check the high once more and then try doing something a bit more interesting than a cube. for now, i'm happy.

progress is being made.

you may want to have the esc the opposite way, i found battery wires to be quite short, not sure they would reach that far without having to extend them, unless you will be using a wiring harness.

that would be one thing i'm looking for, so far all i know is the electronic/control part is based off the reprep system, the firmware is the marlin set up. as for the printer itself i've had no luck.

attempts 2, 3, and 4. bit of searching gave me some more info, such as the firmware the printer uses, prints 3 and 4 were done using better settings that i could do with Slic3r but unable to do on cura. came a better result but still the same problem. the skipping on the Y axis (after quite a lot of searching) would seem to be a common problem with these printers, though finding out how people have fixed it, is proving to be a bigger challenge. i have tried printing at a slower speed but it didn't help, if anything i may have just made it worse, i'm looking at all the settings and on the internet for now to see what i can do

thanks, but thats the wrong printer

nope, didn't want to confuse things so it was set to do 2 loops around the cube to make sure the head was well primed and was then just going to go right for making the cube itself. even the loop (forget what the settings call it) isn't right, the X axis seems to be fairly consistant but the Y axis is certainly not right, as its a new printer my guess would either be and issue with the timing belts or the slicer is the cause, seeing how the X axis seems to be dead on the 25mm width so the timing belts seem most likely, it would also explain the odd sound i could hear. aside from the Y axis problem it seemed to run very well, considering. one thing to note is i can't seem to set the bed size in cura, so the print did start going around the top right hand corner instead of the middle like i was hoping.

well the filament turned up and the first print went about as well as you would expect for someone who doesn't actually know what they are doing. one obvious thing to me is the bed is too close, so the head was mushing the print about (which you see is a single layer plus the very start of the 2nd layer) when it did the second layer it seems the belt need to be abit tighter as i seems to have jumped backwards on the Y axis by quite abit.....although if i'm completely honest, i have no idea whats going on, i'm learning though.

yea i've been reading everything i can, apparently there is no level cap and you can unlock everything eventually, all 275 of them. combat to me looks a lot more Call of Duty out of vats now, not sure i like it tbh, vats looks better imo though the critical thing are now not totaly random which i'm not sure on either. as for windows 10, it won't effect the game too much, it will add backward compatibility and alow us to play FO3 on the one, it will also add the ability to stream info to a win10 computer, i think it also has video capture as well. tbh though, i've not looked into it in regards to win 10 on the one, i hardly ever use it anyway.

got a small length of several filaments on their way to me. yes i could just have bought a full spool and set it up but i want to find out how it handles the filaments first, i'll then stick with what ever runs best and go from there. as per advice of BEZ and a couple other people i got a simple 25mm cube that it will print out, nothing interesting but enough to check and fiddle with settings. seems most use Cura for the printer but the tutorials for it are all older versions, the newer one i have seems to have less settings so i'm kinda working my way through everything, just going to have to do some trial and error.

i ment 10 extra levels, must have hit 2 by mistake. i already have all the DLC, i just haven't played them all. though i've watched the play through videos of most of them so i at least know what they are about. the only one i've defo played myself is operation anchorage and that is defo worth playing imo. FO4 has no level cap but i doubt it means you can get every perk, from what todd howard was saying doing that would contradict what they have said their aim was, though the perks and skills system is now very different, apparently more like skyrim that FO3 or NV, but having not played skyrim what i've read has done nothing but confuse me the other thing its been said is the unlike FO3 and NV once the main story is finished, the game doesn't end, i.e. completing the NV story meant going back as same just before the start of the final quest and play from there, or making sure you did everything else before doing it which a lot of people didn't like, though the dlc did fix that, FO4 doesn't have that problem. FO4 Ghouls have changed also, the general understanding is the Feral versions act more like the traditional zombie in ways. for example, crippling their leg used to just slow them down like any other enemy, but crippling the leg of a feral ghoul in FO4 with blow the leg off entirely, while still not killing it the Ghoul would be reduced to crawling along the ground. ghouls can also come out of varied places, instead of just kinda being there you can walk into a room the looks empty, only to have several ghouls come out of air vents and through windows, etc i've read that the reason the character has survived 200 years in the vault is down to being in a stasis chamber, much like that mr house in NV was and the virtual reality pods from FO3 main story quests though its assumed the one in FO4 is much more advanced, as the character doesn't seem to have aged like the users of the previously mentioned pods. there are also rumors regarding the background and the story, the background is maybe the character having a high ranking possition in government and/or military, which would be why they got into the vault, how they would know combat, as well as having a reason to be able to start and run several settlements should you build them. the rumor on the story line suggest that it has something to do with the baby you see in the E3 video, possibly you looking for it, kinda like a reverse FO3 storyline, reasoning for it all is the changes to make to your character(s)/ mother and father effects how the baby looks, which makes sense, why even bother spending the time programming that in for a baby that is only around for the first 1% of the game.

operation anchorage is the only one i played, at least it the only one i can tihnk of that was any good. never actually complated the main story to find out what broken steel was like other than using the extra 20 levels

price lowered

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/210434-nintendo-3ds-black/

there is infact a machine on kicker start like this, using a 3d printer, cnc machine and laser cutter into one unit.

can't comment to the shock tower but the gears are usaly like that, long as you can turn it without having to force it it should be fine, just keep it slow so the wear alittle before going all out. as for the shocks, hpi stock setting is 40wt in the front shocks and 5wt in the rear. you can run 40 in the rear but it put alot of force on the shock piston and it kinda pointless on anything rough, even a field. i've put 10wt in my baja and its ok but i personaly think 20 or maybe 30 is a better option, though shock set up is mostly down to the driver's personal preferance.

Well it took about an hour but testing is done. sensors are working motors working heaters working fans are working i've also got it all set up, the bed is leveled and height is set, this is more fiddly and took most of the time long story short i need filament and i can start trying to print something.

Cura is one of the ones i have though i'm not really sure how it all works yet, nor do i know if it will even work with the printer i have. i also have one called slic3r that seems decent, though again i'm not sure it will work on the printer i have, plus my pc seems to struggle with it. i'm still looking into them, s3d came up but at $130 odd that money i simply can't justify spending when there are free slicers about, so i'll be keeping to then for the time being.

not with a leaking shock it shouldn't.

Thanks for bring that up, it can operate off a SD card or via a usb to a computer but there was a letter stating that using the usb lead and over power and blow the control board....which seems stupid but i was going to use the sd card option anyway so i make no difference to me. there isn't any software with it though i have 2 or 3 slicers to try out. i only have this one room so i don't have the option of putting it else where, and i sleep in here so having to air out the place before getting back in doesn't interest me, but i currently see no reason for printing in abs, at least not yet. some people do and have made spare parts, my baja flux actually has 2 printed parts from people who have 3d printer themselves, totaly nothing wrong with it but i'm impatient and the waiting killed me lol you could by all mean design parts in solidworks and send the files to me and i can print them out when i got this running, BEZ would also do it, one of the 2 part mentioned above is from one of his machines.

got back to it after put the sides on the gantry set up was next, the X axis (left to right) is prebuilt leaving the Y axis (back and forward) rails to be put in place, then the whole thing is mounted to the case. the X axis timing belt is also fitted at this point the wiring is cleaned up, the wires to the 2 fans, extruder and heater are bundled together and wrapped up to protect them, this lot goes out the rear of the case and down before going in again along the bottom plate to the control panel, the front panel is also fitted and the timing belts for Y axis get put in place as well. next the top panel goes on, the wiring loom is cable tied to this to stop it touching the moving parts, the fram for the filament is also fitted, currently empty as i don't have the filament yet. the final part of the build is the control panel and all the wires, all the fans, stepper motors, heaters, and sensors get plugged in before final tidy up of the wiring and fixing of the control panel. and thats all for the building side of it, the wiring was abit of a pain to do but other than that and the hex bolts being poorly made its gone very well, taken about 5 hours to do. next up is the general set up, getting the built plate level, testing the motors, testing the sensors and the heaters, once thats done i can try printing something. got a few things lined up which will be used for set up. but thats all for now, i'm having a beer.

petroleum oil was only ever used in their largescale cars fella, everything 1/8th and smaller uses silicone. the seals last awhiel but it varies depending on how clean they are, if they are leaking you just need to get some of these, link below: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-shock-diaphragm-13x4mm-8pcs-/rc-car-products/27086 http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-silicon-o-ring-p-3-red-5-pcs-/rc-car-products/15009 it could also be that your front shock shafts have been bent slightly, which can also cause the shock to leak

yea i won't be printing any ABS just yet because of the fumes, i will likely work out a extractor fan set up of some kind should i do do it though, wouldn't be too hard....i mean i'd be able to make the parts i need for it after all lol camera charged so i've begun putting the printer together and its gone fairly well so far, hardest part of it has been getting the wires out of the way, taking a break now but so far it been about 2 hours work. its fair to say i've not seen a 3d printer in person before but so far i'm impressed, all the parts look surprisingly decent quality, and the way its been packaged is actually really good too. as mentioned in the first post all the boxes are labeled, and the instructions say what box each part is in. not only that but each packet is also labeled, with what i think is a serial number, part number or a specific name, in the case of screws, it has all 3. each one is also in the instructions and probably saved me alot of time finding the right screw and part starting with the lead screw that is put together and attached to the build plate, which is mostly assembled from the box. from there the back plate is attached, the stepper motor and several other parts are already fitted, this is placed with the build plate before a small bearing holder and torque block is put on the bottom of the lead screw. next comes the bottom plate which has the stepper motor and the power supply attached, along with the rubber pads and other fixings attached already. lining up the 2 rods and the shaft of the stepper motor and torque block was abit annoying but i got it done, so far it all fitted together very easily. at this point there is a small loosening and tightening of screws in a set order to make sure it all lines up. the left side panel has a rod attached and is also where the power switch as well as the plug is located, the same is then done with the right side panel, and the wires are cable tied to the edges out of the way of the moving parts, there are slots in the casing to do this and the cable ties came with the kit so this is as far as i got, currently having a small break for a drink and some food, it gone together easily enough, all the screws use hex drivers/allen keys, though my only complaint, or rather annoyance would be these screws are not well made, some of the hexes have been formed badly making fitting more of a challenge but so for, over all i'm happy with what i've got.

Posted a status about this a couple days ago and looked like people were interested in it so i figured i'd make this thread. the idea is to show the build, set up, and actual use of the printer, give people who have been thinking about buying one an idea of what to expect and possibly help avoid problems and the like. like the baja thread i've got i'm probably going to ramble but i like giving a lot of info on this sort of thing so feel free to read or skip. For those who don't know about this, this is a printer sold on Hobby king under the turnigy branding, at the time i bought it, was is