Thunderwolf

there are 11 screws to remove. 2 are under the sticker that says spektrum. 1 is under the front rubber grip. 1 is under the stick with DX4S written on it. another is under the sticker with the spektrum logo. 4 are easy to find as you can see them without moving anything. there are also 2 screws holding the AA battery tray in place. you will need to remove the battery tray asway as the 3 stickers on the back of the tx and the sticker over the screen to get the 2 halves apart. i took mine apart to paint the case red, and another one i painted purple and i've painted 2 others for people, it fairly easy once you know how.

Use the RPM one myself, from abbots or msuk

the bja has 3 points on the wing mount to adjust the angle already, though your idea does allow for more adjustibility it would require new wing pins in order to account for the wing angle in relation to the holes in the mounts.

answers in bold

was trying to keep this up to date but i started a new job this week so only had an hour or two at the end of each day to mess about with it. been a bit hit and miss in terms of reliable printing and 90% of it caused by the amount of plastic it was pushing out on the first layer, lowering the flow would fix the initial issue but the lines would be so thin on the remaining layers it made the stuff very weak and look kinda odd. after much messing around i found a group of settings that allow you to adjust the flow rate for specific things, for example, the first layer.......which was set for 200%.....there is the problem.... i'm now working around a much lower setting of that and trying to find a happy medium between how much plastic is used for the first layer and the initial layer height. everything else seems to be working out but them first 2 or 3 layers are stuff hit and miss, once it gets past that first step i can more or less leave it be and it just does what i asked it to do without a problem. that said i have been getting some success and managed to create my first rc part... though its technically the first part that i can fit and actually use. from the left is prototype 1, 2 and 4, not pictured are numbers 3 and 5 but you would tell much difference anyway. they are wing risers for the baja, they (will) raise the wing up by 11.5mm putting it in some less turbulent air coming off the rear shock tower as well as getting it away from some of the heat from a rear exit exhaust, which have a habbit of melting and allowing them to bend thanks to heat, there are other set up that raise it much higher but this doesn't mess with the look too much. keeps fitting easy too, just remove the R clips, lift wing off, place the risers over the wing pins and fit back to the car, no extra bolts or mods needed. ok not the greatest part ever made but i'm happy with it, first part that i've gone through the whole process of design, modeling, prototyping and ending up with a final part that i can actually use which is kinda cool in my book so i'm happy with what i've done. though i'm now looking to some other parts now.

they should have changed the esc units all together, the stock ones are crap.

so its a the same thing but with a different colour shell.....ok then.

guess this needs an update. long story short, new filament arrived, done one cube to make sure the settings where ok, didn't come out very well. it not be able to print anything since so now i'm trying to work out what is wrong

thats the thing though, it did it from the moment it was out of the packet, it did stay out in open air for about 24hours before i used it all but how much was leaking never changed,

not paid much attention to brands but the one i've had the most success with is reprapper, though it seems to have fairly high moisture in it which makes the extruder leak when not being used but still hot, looking at trying colorfab stuff when funds allow.

brand wise i've not tried many yet so i can't comment on that yet. i will be avoiding anything needing temps over 230c though, the epoxy or what ever is used to fix the nozzle in place (its all one unit, something i will change at some point) melted while running some clear filament i had the was PET based, at 235c the nozzle was covered in black tar like substance and it was a bitch to clear it off. it may be thats normal and it stops doing it at some point, but i'd rather not risk it and have to fix it, i mean i've only run 40 meters worth of filament through it so far. if there is one thing i'm finding its that the bed space is limiting for some of the stuff i would like to do, the 150x150 mil bed is suitable for the most part but the 100mm height limit is abit annoying, meaning some of the stuff i had planned to print i now wither have to split up, using more plastic and time, or i have to make them smaller, neither of which i'm particularly happy with.

i'm still experimenting with different brands atm, finding what works best.

i've been playing with solid works for almost 2 years now. some of which i've had printed out by other people. not made any of them on my own printer just yet but i will be at some point, if they are going to hold up to use though is another question.

in what sense fella?

interested to see what this battery holder looks like. also, you may find 5000mah are too small.

there are, for actually building the printer you don't need them imo, the instruction book is clear enough. they do have videos on getting started but as i stated before they seem to be abit out of date, the use of cura for example like the HK video says to use is based off an old build of the program and much of the info, specifically setting up cure for the printer, such as bed dimensions, are now irrelevant. its also worth noting that the printer will now cost alittle more than what i've paid, at the time i bought it it was on sale with

including the cost fo the filament and all the postage -

taken a few false starts but i'm getting there. much happier with the quality i'm getting out of it now, its still extruding a bit too much filament so every now and then it pushes small bits of the print out, you can see it most on the corners and first layer (the later is below) i should be able to drop it slightly more without changing the quality too much, as it stands this is probably the best quality thing its printed so far. the rough edge is from the brim being pulled off, hard to see in the pictures (getting the focus and light levels right requires an attention span higher than my own) but the edges of the brim and the out perimeter go abit mushed together from having the flow slightly too high still, which also happened to the solid infill layer, though it seems to effect the first layer most it no longer catches on the nozzle and the print was able to continue, there is a slight texture given to the top layers from the infill, the final 3 layers are done as solid (as is the first 3 layers, with the rest being 20%), couple extra layer could well smooth it out but tbh its only a slight thing and doing so imo would be a waste of plastic, obviously with a higher % infill this wouldn't happen as much and would be less noticable. on a totally different subject, this red PLA is kinda cool looking, seems to be ever so slightly transparent, giving a nice shine to it, almost a pearlesent look, holding it to the light shows the infill pattern (if viewed through the top/bottom) now that i've gotten some decent use out of the printer, i'm not so hesitant on buying a full spool, so i'll be buying a decent length of filament soon.

well the bed is set up and as i expected, somethings have improved while others have gotten worse. on the good side of things, now the plastic doesn't have a chance to curl on itself its stopped building up on the nozzle and goes down to the bed much better, bed adhesion is also much better for the same reason, as there is also more contact area from being flattened out, rather than being layed down as a round bead. on the down side is there is now too much plastic being used, so as a bead is being laid down its being spread out to the sides far too much, the result is new beads are pushing into beads already laid down and its forcing plastic up, in some cases its raised so much that the nozzle catches the print. slightly reducing the flow rate (a setting that took me awhile to find) improved the print, it also means that the current saved settings and current g-codes i have are completely useless so i've returned everything back to default and i'll be starting again from scratch and work out the settings needed for printing with the correct bed height, starting with getting the flow rate under control.

just spent the last hour setting the bed height to its correct position, a lot of time but for good reason. infact i'm surprised its been printing as well as it has, as the bed was a good 1mm from the bed, 10x further than it should be. as some of you are so interested here is how these adjustments are made, probably the same as other printers but i wouldn't actually know, but on this there are 4 screws, the picture of my first attempt below shows 3 of them these screws can be adjusted with either a flat head screw driver, or a 7mm spanner. the spanner would be best as you can make smaller adjustments, i don't have a 7mm spanner though (i do have 6mm and 8mm, which is typical) so i've had to make do with a screw driver, there are 2 draw backs, the first being i can't make small adjustments for fine tuning the height as much as i would like, the 2nd draw back is the printer head gets in the way so i have to test the height, move the head, adjust, move head back, test again, and repeat, the spanner would be able to slip under the head, it would just be simpler to do imo. to do the rough adjustment you turn on the printer, and set it to "auto home", the printer then sets the head and bed to the 0 position, which is the bed up close to the head, with the head going to the bottom left corner, there are 6 sensors on the printer (2 for each axis) which stop movement. for the Z axis (height/printing bed) the upper sensor, that stops it going too high and hitting the printing nozzle is on a simple adjuster that allows you to move the sensor up and down by about 10mm, using this i get the bed as close to the head as i can without it touching, the adjusting screws are then used to fine tune this height. starting with the bottom left, then top right, then bottom right, and finally top left, using a bit of paper as TC says in one of his posts, being 0.1mm thick it sets the height perfectly, i've done it so that while i can feel some drag on the paper it doesn't notice, best way i can describe it is it drags enough to flatten the paper but there isn't a change in resistance once the paper comes out of the gap. because each corner effects the others the above gets done over and over until a happy medium is found, once all 4 corners are the same i test the middle to make sure that matches as well, after and hour though my hands started to cramp so i'm leaving it now, though i've gotten it fairly close, give or take 0.05mm or so on one or 2 corners. this obviously has a knock on effect with other settings, such as the print speed and temps, while they worked fairly well before (more or less) they may not work so well now, given how its now set up better and not trying to print with the bead taking a 1mm or so drop before hitting the bed. it does explain some of the quality characteristics of the parts i've printed so far, so this should go a long way to getting better looking prints in the future, should also help fix the few printing problems i've been having, both the ones i'm mentions and the ones i haven't.

if you have the stock chassis then no need for it, the straps can go through the chassis cut outs on the sides. its a different story if you have an enclosed chassi though, and that product isn't the only one you need in order to fit the flux battery box.

can we please drop this simpifly3d is the best stuff, it may be great and the best thing you can possibly get, bottom line though is i can't afford it. it a good program, i get it but there is no point in constantly telling me to get something i can not physically afford, yea they give a full refund if i'm not happy, fantastic, doesn't solve the issue of being able to buy it in the first place i have no problem at paying for it, yes its a cheap printer but i can use the slicer for other printers, so it not like it will become useless should i upgrade, my only issue, as i pointed out in post #34 is that i simply don't have the money, currently the only way i could get that program is to sell another one of my cars, or maybe my games consoles, neither of which i'm happy doing. alot of people do use cura on the turnigy printer but all the tutorials i've seen are on old versions of the software, i don't know what they did but it seems to have been moved onto mainly ultimaker use as i can't find the settings needed for running the turnigy printer that all the tutorials seem to mention. slic3r on the other hand i've been able to set up for the printer and actualy got some decent looking prints, having said that, there is a small issue i'm coming across that i do need to address, if its slic3r or the printer or even my pc though, i have no idea. i would like to give other programs a try but tbh, if it works, why fix it.

the price isn't my issue, it the lack of money in my account i have to contend with. i pretty much had to sell an rc, all my spare parts and a fair chunk of my games to buy the printer. i'm not using cura, its too limiting in its set up and didn't have much luck with it, i'm using slic3r, it the one that has given me the best results in terms of getting me started.

having managed the cube i decided to do some other things i have to see how it would go. quality aside they turn out quite well imo that was the same settings as the cube, 0.2 layer height at 210c. i've since run out of the black filament, didn't get much so i put some of the red, which seems to print out much the same as the black. long as the bed is clean and a decent brim is used the plastic sticks to it fairly well however there are 2 issues i need to address, the first is the bed height which is easy enough, assuming i can find some paper laying around the 2nd issue i'm having is more annoying and i'm unsure of the cause, the plastic comes out of the nozzle but has an annoying habit of curling around and stick to the edges of the nozzle, continues to do so until it does eventually stick to the bed and prints as it should, but that blob stays put and more often it will catch the print, usually early on, and it pulls and rolls it about, meaning i have to stop the printer, take the plastic off, clean the nozzle and then start again, usually having to be repeated several times before either it doesn't stick the the nozzle at all (rarely happens) or the blob simply doesn't mess up the print, usually if i can get past the 3rd layer i can be confident i can leave it be. thing is i can't work out why its doing it, i thought it may be the filament at first but as the red did the exact same thing it got me wondering what was the cause, i'll deal with the bed height for now as that is probably not helping but other than that i'm drawing a blank so if anyone has had it themselves i'd really be interested in how you stopped it. that said, i'm happy so far, though the quality certainly isn't upto my standards. small comparison, the 4 on the right are what i've managed to do so far. the 2 orange parts on the left were printed by someone on facebook. the 2 in the center were done by BEZ. if i can get something like BEZ can on his fairly (a lot) more expencive machines then great, but i'd be happy with the orange part quality.