Suren

Yes, that might be the better option, I will try that when it blows again.

My Firestorm regularly blows the manifold gasket. I use genuine HPI replacements and also tighten up fairly tight using threadlocking fliud. I am concerned that I might soon damage the bolt threads on the manifold and require a new one. Does anyone know of a fix for this?

Yes, you normally have to blow down hard, remember, you are blowing fuel through a very small hole. There is a rubber gasket between the engine and the manifold with a spring running around the engine holding the exhaust manifold in place. Check that the rubber gasket is seated OK. A pressure leak at that point could cause low back pressure at the exhaust also.

Can you send me a link, pls?

Is this to be found inside the gearbox?

Cheers for the quick reply, mate, how do I fix this? Or is it an adjustment?

The best way, I found, to get feul up into the carb is to pull the pipe from the exhaust box and blow down it. (Not that I am asking you to do this in case you die of nitro fuel poisoning.... ) Is your tank full?

My Firestorm is 8 months old. Been well run in and tuned, great wheelies on demand. Last used 4 weeks ago, I had put in some after run oil and stored. Yesterday, I tried to start it and it started without difficulty, and then stalled. I elevated the drive wheels and tried again. The engine starts, runs, and revs up but I cannot get it to idle low enough so that the wheels stop spinning and when I put it down, it immediately stalls. Re-tuned HSN after reverting to factory settings but with same problem. The engine seems to have enough compression and sounds fine. I did not ease out the adjustment on the slipper clutch as it has been running fine before as is. I am concerned that the engine could be worn out. Could a worn out engine cause this? I also changed out the glow plug with a new one. Has anyone had this fault before? I have not experienced such difficulty with this car since I bought it.

Hi All, I've recently bought a TT Sledge Hammer S50 and it arrived with a QD Start system. The starter which looks like a small drill, possibly also made by TT because it has a TT sticker on it, does not have a kind of an overload trip switch. On a full charge, this starter has quite a bit of torque. My concern is that if the engine is flooded when I try to start it with this starter, I could force it and damage the engine. Would it be safer to retro-refit with a pull starter? Does anyone have any info about this? Suren

Hey Squeek, You should definitely complain. I myself, do not have a temperature gauge and also do not know what to listen for and identify when it's running hot. Maybe I should get one. Is there one that anyone can recommend? I do not want an onboard one because I have two other cars. I do not think that the engine seized because when I took the top heat sink off, the piston moved easily up and down. If the engine seized, can the piston still move? Also, on the top of the roto-start back-plate, the bit that goes into the engine, the metal surface was pitted and so was the underside of the plate into which the glow plug is screwed into. This seemed like something had broken off and was loose in the engine and was getting blasted around inside until it jammed the piston and the con-rod broke. This all happened within 8 minutes of first starting it. This is how I think the pitting happened. MSUK have received the engine back yesterday but no news yet.

OWB? What is that? Sorry, I'm new to this....

Yes M8, I received the car on Wed this week and only started it yesterday. Bought from MSUK. Sorry about the wrong thread...new to this forum..!

I need some advice here.... Just bought a RTR TT S50 Sledge Hammer received 03/04 and during run in, it started easily and ran. Within 3-4 minutes, even at a slightly higher rev, the engine changed tone to an erratic one and died. I was about to restart when I found that the roto-start backplate was loose with only 2 screws. Found one of the missing screws on the tray near the engine and luckily, the other on my drive. Used Loctite, and replaced all screws without removing the back-plate. The truck started up after that and ran for a further 2 minutes before it stalled again. The engine seemed to be locked or seized and could not start. Loosening the glow-plug did not help. I decided to start fault finding at the initial problem I had and removed the roto-start backing plate. Inside, I found broken bits of piston, liner and con-rod. I believe that this failure could be as a result of the the back-plate coming loose, as I carefully followed the manual's run in procedure and this should not have happened. I am also not unfamiliar with nitro engines as I currently own a Ansmann Virus and a Firestorm 10T. Has anyone had any such problem, and can suggest whether my diagnosis is correct or whether I could have done anything wrong to cause this. I am also unsure about warranty as I have not contacted my supplier yet. Please advise.....!