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Ahh that does make things more difficult... There doesn't seem to be any really easy way to do it but there's some trial software available here that claims to recover the password - although it'll only show the first three letters unless you pay for the full version.

Which browser are you using? There's also the "forgotten your password?" option to most site logins which will send the password to your registered e-mail address. For logging into e-mail accounts they may use special questions which only you would know the answer to. Pet's first name etc.

If it runs then yes, if not he'd probably still manage to make most of the money back by stripping it down, cleaning it and parting it out.

Appears to be a Ts-2 - the rear wheel drive variant of the TS-4. Same design, just missing a few parts so shouldn't be difficult to convert it to 4WD if he wanted to. Looks to have a custom rear body mount, certainly isn't standard. Spares should be readily available from modelsport or ebay, I've never had any trouble getting parts for mine.

No reason it shouldn't work fine if it's on the right freq though.

The KO I linked to uses crystals, hard to make out in the photo but no dials to set freq unfortunately. Yeah that'd probably be the easier option, especially if you race.

I'm also looking for another receiver for my 40mhz XS3 but the RS300 & RS310's are impossible to find in the correct frequency. I think JR have discontinued the 40mhz variants, can't even find them on their website :/ This is the closest I've got... RS310 - this has been out of stock for months. Futaba KO Propo Hitec

Hi there, There's the Lunsforfd Titanium set - but it isn't cheap and you may have to order it from the US if you can't find any UK based suppliers. I'm using these and have never bent or broken one! Associated / Thunder Tiger also have a titanium set but from what I remember (it's been a few years since I raced my MT-A4) people were forever bending these despite them being titanium. Here are the red springs, they're a bit firmer than the blues and will make a big difference

I work it out to be

If the flywheel/clutch assembly is too close the engine (and requires moving out) that's easy enough to sort by shimming behind the flywheel collet, however if you're trying to move it back you may need a shorter collet or to shorten the existing one by filing it. If that's the case a set of adjustable engine mounts would be an easier option! As for bearings i've always faced the rubber side outwards.

Shimmed diffs, RPM a-arms, Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, alloy shock caps and even a rear wing are a few more things to consider

Sounds as if the steering is binding somehow. Even a standard servo on 4AA batteries should be able to turn the wheels from lock to lock with ease when they're off the ground. If there is binding then your servo is having to work harder to try to overcome the resistance and is drawing more current from the batteries as a result - which could be why they're getting so hot.

Have you tried running it in compatibility mode? (Right click > properties > compatibility)

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Have you tried adjusting the shift point? If that's not had any effect the 2-speed hub might be loose on the shaft - in which case it'll probably be easiest to take out the gearbox, open it up and secure it properly. I find two grub screws + threadlock does the trick.