wastegate

My pullstart has been fine but if the end part of the spring has gone you can normally bend a new hook in the spring and rewind the pullstart. Low speed needle adjustment is clockwise for leaner and anti-clockwise for richer. I found the settings in the manual to be wrong and actually emailed Hot Bodies/HPI for clarification but they obviously find it difficult to understand English! See my previous post for my needle settings.

The GT10 is the truck version of the Stadium 10. Same chassis and drivetrain but with larger engine, wheels and truck body. Much more expensive though! No problems with the Stadium 10 yet apart from the inital tuning issue with the low speed needle. I did email HotBodies to ask about this but never got a reply.

The truck seems quite strong so far so hop-ups are not critical. A 2-speed would not be needed on the track but could be fun for bashing if the slipper could be kept. Fitting the 3cc motor from the GT10 with a larger spur would make the Stadium 10 mad and as I have a GT10 as well, I may just try it BTW, the GT10 is an ace little truck and runs rings around my Savage 4.6!

Well I paid

Link to HB Stadium 10 page Link to video of Stadium 10 on the track

Is that a Traxxas carb on the 21?

What motor mounts did you use and did you have to modify much to get it all to fit?

Are there many Lightning Stadium 10 owners on here? Do you like it? What mods have you done? Please share your opinions and info as there's not much out there on the net!

How did you get on tuning the Lightning. My GT10 was a breeze but the Stadium 10 has not been so easy. My low speed needle was not set flush with the body as per the manual and I can see why as it would not idle at at a flush setting regardless of adjustments made to the idle screw. When I returned it to the original setting of around 1 turn out it idles and ran fine. Is this a case of another Hot Bodies manual being wrong?????????

My first breakage has occured and it's the rear center driveshaft part number HB66575. The pins have sheared at one end but it's only £7 for a pack of two. The body has taken a pounding as well and is quite brittle in the current temperatures! one of the drive cups came loose but it was only the grub screw that loosened up. Holding up quite well overall.

If it's set rediculously lean and idles alot on a lean setting then yes but the HSN is the important one that's why it's set first. On a 2 needle carb the LSN is only affecting about 1/4 of the throttle and the HSN is doing most of the work in general use. BTW, the manual also says to set the LSN to flush with the body and that ain't right either

Try 2 and a half turns out and work in slowly 1/8 turn at a time until it runs well flat out.

You'll get a faint burning smell from a new engine but it normally goes quickly. Try and measure temps off the glowplug if you can rather than the fins of the head as it'll be more accurate. The LSN needle should not make a huge difference to running temps as the real work is done by the engine at higher revs and that's affected by the HSN. My HSN is 2 turns out from fully closed and it's as quick as my 4.6 Savage flat out! Temp is 220F max.

Anyone know what other bodies will fit the GT10 as the stock one is really weak? I thought about the HPI MT2 bodies but I'm not sure about length and body post position?

It's probably due to their hotter climate. I did some temperature tests and the max mine got to was 220 deg F which is fine although it is cold out at the moment which helps. Come the summer I may have to make a hole in the windscreen for additional cooling.

Is that the return of the Kyosho Quad Rider on the Graupner stand?

My SS 4.6 painted in transparent candy blue (looks better in the flesh). Amazingly this shell has lasted 2 years, with the help of tape and glue!

If it uses the same diff casings as the mammoth then they'll be you're biggest problem as they start to deform under power and the diff clicking starts as the teeth skip across each other. You can shim them tight but replacement of the casings is best. I ran an Sh28 in a Mammoth and it was fast and handled really well but the diff casing problem forced me to give up with it!

I recorded the settings the engine came with and then changed them to the manuals settings and it would not start! I returned the settings to their original 'as supplied' settings and it started and ran perfectly. As I said above, I think the low speed needle setting in the manaul is wrong and has been taken from the rotary carb version. Try the HSN at 3 turns out and the LSN at 1 and 1/4 turns in from flush with the slide end for break-in.

I find it an interesting subject as I think there's a lot of BS going on from manufacturers. All that breaking an engine in is doing is honing the bore which should happen really quickly. The metalergy will not be changed by succesive runs as the the metals are worked at higher temperatures in construction. Ok pistons and heads can be melted by running at excessive temps but that's down to lean running and the bearing surfaces should not need breaking in. So how many tanks are really needed for break in? If I had money to waste then I'd love to do a back to back test with the break-in/no break-in methods and then do some detailed analysis and measurement.

You'll love it! I have the original 4.6 SS and in 2 years I have only broken 2 spur gears which is incredible considering the abuse it's had. I shimmed the diffs correctly when I built it and they have never been apart since. Such a strong truck!

Another GT10 owner here. What a great little truck and fast as well! Anyone else find that the low speed needle setting is wrong in the manual? Looks like they have taken the 'flush' setting straight from the HPI manual for the rotary carb version as my LSN is 1 and 1/4 turns in from flush with the slide end and my HSN is 2 and 1/4 turns out. I look forward to some serious testing at the track

How to run-in a 2 stroke is such a contentious issue! I run mine on rich seetings for a few tanks and then gradually tune it over the next few tanks and I have never had an engine let go. Ideally the piston needs to hone the bore as fast as possible which will give the best power output. I have seen two new 125cc 2 stroke motorbikes run-in in different ways, one was hammered from day one and the other was done by the book and the the hammered one was quicker on acceleration and top end (neither has broken yet)! Whether this applies to small model engines I don't know but I'm willing to give it a try when I get a new one.