Zogg

Hiya Ron Bones, I built on of them some time ago for work. i posted some pics of it on this site. i was not entirely impressed. as far as i can remember the servo mounts seemed to flex quite a bit which didn't help, and if it was in either low or high, the servo had to continually operate against a spring. (not very servo friendly) the next step i would take, as rockers suggests, is to get a longer servo horn.

sometimes the film is on the wrong side on the wings. this is because the wing tool is in reverse to give a better final result and because the body and wing are made from the same sheet. hope that makes sense. always paint on the underside.

here is a linky that should explain edit.. amritpal_sehra beat me to it

its going down hill I'd say haha

i agree with you on that. a scaled engine would behave differently. You miss the point i was getting at. i was trying to explain to badger that if a hornby train is powered by an electric motor, it doesnt mean that it is not a scale model just because the train it was based on was powered by steam. similarly, whether the power from the motor on a 1:10 touring car is transmitted to the wheel by belt, shaft or magic is irrelevant. the fact is that if it is made to a specific scale and is instantly recognizable as a Skyline, Alfa, or whatever, its a scale model. the point of the topic was to discover a more sensible way of working out scale speed to be realistic. i think this looks right and its based on Frouds theories. 1:10 scale speeds scale/real 24/75 32/100 40/125 47/150 63/200 79/250 if you have better equations to calculate realistic scale speed, please post them. thank you for all of your replies. you have been very helpful Zogg

you guys mus want me to be wrong sooo bad...(whats wrong with you?) mad-wolfie... a 1:10 scale car is described as such because it is scaled at a factor of 0.1 (1 tenth the size of the real thing) badger906... 1. i think you will find that the shells are scaled. 2. many modern cars do have foam in the bumpers. 3. the wheels on a typical (full size) touring car uses 17in rims. if you measure across a 1:10 touring model wheel (with tire on) it will be something like 63mm. so an arch will normally be just under 70mm.... or just like the real thing scaled up (700mm) and what of belt drive??? you don't expect to see a diesel engine on a model train do you.. doesn't make it any less a scale model does it. Joe of loath.. my real car weighs something more in the region of 1.5tonne (metric ton) 1.5 tonne @ 1:10 = 1500grams exactly. The 1500g minimum weight limit for touring cars is right in the ball park. lol

so.. for a scale model to be a scale model, it has to be made by hornby or airfix?????? i was under the impression that for a scale model to be a scale model, it had to represent something in a recognizable fashion at a whatever scale

i think they are based on the full sized counterparts. the skyline shell i have is proportionally correct and the right height. it also has wheels, double wishbone suspension, oil filled dampers, anti-roll bars, differentials and more importantly, goes like a the full scale thing on the track. what more do you need for it to be considered a scale model?

What Zogg was interested in was if anyone knew how to properly calculate scale speed as the popular way of doing it is clearly not right. Unfortunately it seems that the only one able to shed light on the subject is Froude. thejackal Can you please explain why scale speed is not relevant to scale models?

Froude was indeed interested in ship hulls and scale dynamics. Perhaps this article will be of interest to those who wish to have a better understanding of scale speed. article

if you are looking for something 'advanced and quick', maybe one of these may be more the ticket

personally i would go for the mtronics. simply because you have some options.. comparatively speaking, it would appear you get a lot more bang for your buck too. i use an IP6 for racing which has worked perfectly so far.

years ago i used to discharge cells individually with a 6 volt light bulb i found in the shed. used to keep it wired to the cell until the glow was almost faded, then move onto the next one. not sure if i was doing it right but those batteries lasted a very long time. i have a proper dis-charger now and i have to plug it into my 12 volt power supply to make it work. if you have stick packs wrapped up in plastic and cant discharge individually, be careful not to discharge too deep or else a cell may reverse polarity. i am not an electrical expert though so dont take my word for it. listen to what others have to say before you make any decisions.

cheers R3nos i thought it was like that but wasn't sure. i makes perfect sense for a hard surface like tarmac but carpet is very different. hope the same still applies. thanks for the link, i will go and have a read.

I have done some searching for foam tire info but cant find anything.. What I'm looking for specifically is some guidance on shore hardness and their grip levels. Also, some 26mm tires are specifically sold as rear tires. is there a difference between a rear and a front with the same shore hardness? would be most grateful if someone could shed some light on the subject or point me in the right direction. thanks Phil edit... i use them for racing on carpet