boze

Bumparoo!!!

Ah well, so much for one price drop

Hi mate, Id rather not split anything just now but if I do Ill give you first dibbs on them D

*ONE AND ONLY PRICE DROP*

Any offers? D

Hi folks, due to some bad stuff happening im forced to sell my truggy :-( Its a Thunder Tiger ST-1 with a brand new TT Pro21 pullstart engine thats only had 3 tanks of fuel in it so far. Ive locked up the centre diff internals with some epoxy for more power to the ground. The spare wheels are a bit rough but theyre great for bashing and the rest of the car is in great condition. I bought some spares for her ages ago, just incase, but im yet to break anything on it so these are included in the sale. These are seriously tough cars with CVD's all round and a bombproof chassis youll have trouble smashing it! Please note it now comes with the stock pipe only. Not the 053 thats on it in the pic. The only thing youll need is radio gear and batteries. Some Pics: So you get the car, spare wheels, standard pipe, spare rear suspensions arms, spare upper suspension arms and spare suspension plates. I think ive also got a spare CVD that ill include. Im looking for £165 £135 for fully insured next day delivery but will accept reasonable offers by PM. Paypal payment preferred but will accept cash posted at the buyers risk and the car and all spares etc will be posted out as soon as payment is received. Feel free to PM me to ask any questions and please check out my feedback (link in my sig). Damo ::EDIT:: Forgot to say it has also been fitted with the extended wing mount ::EDIT:: Price edited.

Any offers?

Piston, Sleeve and Conrod sold. D

New prices: Piston, Sleeve and Rod:

Anyone...... D

Hi folks, got a few spares for sale as follows (all are for the LRP Z.28R spec 3 truggy engine): Piston with conrod and sleeve: SOLD Crank:

Sounds like the slipper pad, get a new one and a new spur gear, you dont want to tighten it up all the way or youll end up stripping the spur again. Tighten it up so you can still turn the spur a bit by hand with all the wheels on the ground and the truck still. D PS Im always slow on grass

If you dont want it ill buy it!! Haha, my mates got one and its absolutely cracking. Its so stable and tough, hes given his some horiffic abuse and the worst hes done really is broken a couple of suspension arms. Thunder Tiger make really good trucks, Ive got an ST-1 which is also bulletproof. Get it dude! D

Gutted, I couldnt get online for a couple days D

Looks pretty cool man The only problem i can see is that its not a flat bend if you know what i mean? It will mean the exhaust is hanging down quite low, like in a prime place to get battered to bits lol Might have to knock the idea on the head.... D

Sounds like its not tuned properly. Have you tuned it according to the manual? Does it reach full speed ok? Does it take off nice and fast or does it stutter a wee bit when you hit the throttle from standstill? If it does reach full speed with a nice thin trail of blue smoke then the high speed needle is ok so what id advise is screwing IN the low speed needle 1/16th of a turn at a time until its idling ok. If after a couple of 1/16th turns its not getting any better then let us know D PS After each adjustment make sure you run the car up to full throttle and back again then let it idle for about 20 seconds to see if its starting to cut out again.

Yup, if you look under your RC car chassis most have a slit cut out under the engines flywheel, you sit the car on a starter box which has a large thin rubber disc within it which protrudes just enough to make contact with the flywheel and when you press the car down onto the box the disc the disc spins, spinning the flywheel and starting the engine D

Cool man, ill let him know to have a gander at the losi manifold, probably too expensive for him though. Is it that uncommon for a car to have a 90 degree manifold bend? lol D

Locking the diff will put a lot more stress on other parts of the drivetrain like shafts, gears, clutch, wheels etc. Its not such a big deal in a drift car as drift tyres reduce this stress by freely wheelspinning. The difference here is that you dont have drift tyres on it and theres a LOT more torque going through it all than on TC drift cars. As long as you know youll be spending more cash on the above mentioned parts due to excessive wear then shred it up man!!!! My mates MTA4 chucked the front diff (major nasty landing) so he had it rear wheel drive only for a while, it was mental!! Its mad seeing a truck drifting but the rear diff went VERY quickly after that, also the CVD cups on the rear ripped themselves apart..... D

Theres many a thread about what race engine is best. Youre limited to a .21 so do a quick search on the forum for "best .21 engine" and it should bear some results As far as radio gear goes, 40mhz FM is fine but if you can afford it then go 2.4ghz with either a Spektrum system or Futaba FASST (I prefer the FASST as it uses spread spectrum technology meaning its less prone to glitching than the Spektrum systems). D

nah its a rear exhaust engine but thunder tiger placed it sideways on the chassis. heres a pic: This is the stock setup but theres even a slot in the plastic chassis guard for the stinger to sit in if he can find a 90 degree manifold... D

When I told my missus I got a couple of hump packs she thought I was cheating on her..... D

DONT take the petrol truck unless you have an outerwears filter on the pull start AND on the air filter. Seriously, theyre essential or youll run the risk of totalling the engine. The petrol will be more fun on the sand plus less refuelling so youll run a lower risk of getting sand in the tank so get the outerwears (or cheaper brand ones, theyre just as good) and tear it up!! D

LOL PMSL LMAO FTW FTB WTF?!?! D

plus... LHS = Local Hobby Shop OWB = One Way Bearing TDC = Top Dead Centre CVD = Constant Velocity Driveshaft D