Anthoop

Well your name fits that shoe picture....burr ridge....

Put some pictures here....I will tell you what I think they are worth...

Oh and to the OP...Lucas...I am presuming you are talking about a Macstar .28.....( there is a different engine that many call a Mach .28 )...the six port Hyper .28 is a Macstar.

On many engines the pullstart casing and whole design is an after thought...the Hyper engines in general are good...but as Ian W pointed out the problem was the actual pulley rubbing against the backplate and by releasing the pullstart screws a little will allow the pulley to return...the problem is easily fixed...either space the pull start housing out or put spacers on the starter shaft to prevent the pulley rubbing on the backplate. The OWB would not cause a fault like the OP experienced.

Please tell me you are heating that new engine before starting and keeping it warm when running rich...as for the clutch ( I do not know your previous engine where those shoes/springs worked or even if they servicable)...maybe you need stronger springs but more than likely I would guess at a few reasons for the clutch locking.....is the clutch shimmed correctly, I leave a snick of freeplay, are there burrs on the shoes, are the springs weak, are the bearings worn?....TBH if the clutch is locking on when running in a new engine ( low rpm and load) then there is something very wrong that should be easy to find.

Yokomo...part number ZC-S80S. CML have them on the website it only says 8mm but on Amain it says 8x11...pack of 30...0.05,0.1 and 0.2.

From the picture the rod joints look oval? The X18 was replaced by the R18. Secondhand buyers always beware....you just never know....unnless it is an engine you know and /or have parts for then do not buy used.

What size shims are needed.....you do not need to buy the specific Serpent shims I suspect?

20% is the lowest nitro content you should run....it can and will run with lower but it will make running/starting much harder...25% will make tuning and running much easier for you....the OS8 plug is fine but a longer plug is what your engine was made to use..

Just buy what is available at the best price in the thickness you need...plenty of conversion things to see what cst...or wt..or whatever is to you.

Yeah, kind of agree. However it's like comparing an experienced mechanic to an experienced electrician. Both are learnable if one takes his or her time. Engines really are basic things. Engines are basic,,,suck,squeeze,bang,blow...simple....now make a good engine....mmmm......motors are simplle maths..nothing like comparing a person that can servicce said items. (sorry for the double quote....wish I was on a PC).

We are runnning way off topic of course and thanks....but engines are not easy to understand at all...there is always so many alterations that can be made yet when you run electric it is simply mathematiics.

It was a flippant comment though....really more a rib dig at Ev rather than a sexist comment....in these days of everyone being equal....even though they are not...you have to be careful.

Virtually all of the Hyper.21 engines are the same....you can add a pullstart if you wish. I always recommend these settings for Hyper.21 engines...1mm slide gap LSN 0.5 mm out from flush and HSN at least 3.5 out.....very rich...so get it started and adjust from there....HSN-LSN-GAP(after gap adjust will need more LSN adjust...they work together)..only tune a warm engine. What fuel and plug are you using?

What fuel does it run?....nevermind I know already....that underpowered stuff..

Only real men run engines in toy cars...girls need that plug and play thing....

Yes if everything lines up properly then no problem......like said be sure that all spacing is even....cast metal does not like attempts to distort.

There are quite a few versions of the Picco P3....I personally like the Jammin JP2...but it will drink fuel....the JP3 is less thirsty but less top end potential. not noticed much mid/bottom end change.....kind of similar with the Ofna/Dynamite pipes- 086 has great top end and to me seems more suited and the 053 uses less fuel.

If you disconnect the servo...set the carb....it should start and you can operate the throttle manually....of course have the vehicle on a block so wheels are free to turn. The idle screw on the carb should always dictate the minimum gap.

Drilling is permanent...if it will work with some washers on the other mounts then go with that...of course you only want to use flat washers and all the same....be wary of distorting the cast engine casing.

I see you got it running and the starter box battery was probably the problem.....but it might be worth mentioning that the cut out in the Hyper chassis is quite small so you must take care when getting the box pegs aligned....removing the engine is easiest but you can also open up the cut out a little.

I think there used to be far more rule bending/breaking years ago than happens now as there are so many ways to observe what is happening....back in the day you could not even know what maximum RPM an engine was turning.... now you can know that from anywhere let alone the side of the track. I too had a point where F1 just bored me but recent years have (for me) been far more entertaining...I do love the technical guff for a start and I really do think the races in general have been better due to actual racing happening....yes the tyres suck and fuel saving too but they actually over take on track and not only in the pits. If you are fed up with it then just do not watch it. I should have been more specific and called it the power unit...sorry.

I have enjoyed the new formula....has made the racing more entertaining with more overtakes on track than the five years before....and lol "the winning team can break rules", let me say Redbull, Ferrari and Mclaren in that order covers twenty years of rule bending/breaking....F1 is about money and the winners bring the money so often the rules are different for some....guess you were not watching F1 for all that long. You realise these new 1.6 engines are producing more power and using less fuel than the V10 engines right?.....and the cars are recording better laptimes than have been seen for many years with less downforce and less grippy tyres....Sure when men were men they had to really drive, no BS on the wheel to help change the car...just the wheel the pedals and a gear shifter...sadly those F1 days are gone.

Yes from next year the paltry ten races shown in full along with qualifying and practice sessions will not be on the BBC even though they had a contract for a good few years yet........the contract has been taken over by Channel 4 and apparently there will not be advert breaks during the race....yay....presenters not known at the moment...( I can not give links but details on both the BBC and CH4 websites)......Hopefully the Beeb will end soon along with the license fee.

If he was then he would have bought you by now and you would be his little lap dog....