Anthoop

Have a look at the site and the price of the tooling....then point me to a piston liner set that costs more. The biggest problem with pinching a liner is keeping it the right shape and not distorting it......after that hurdle then you need to know the percentage of the bore to be pinched and how tight.....note you do not compress the whole liner... ( and yes a simple jubilee can ruin a liner.....the liner is brass).

With a small/light car then you want rpm rather than torque...OS.18 TZ...or big block then a .21....Novarossi Virtus. You can run bigger than .21 and adjust gearing but the bigger engine has a smaller rpm range and this will limit how you can alter the gear ratio. Oh and never take the quoted figures for power-torque-rpm to mean anything....

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/177885-how-to-measure-crank-and-port-timing/

Mitch...these little engines have a maximum rpm that is way too high for either reeds or rings, neither would be able to keep up.....the reeds would not open/close fast enough and the rings would suffer from "flutter" ( whereby the ring will hammer the groove). So rotary valve and a tapered liner are used. High rpm is used to increase power as the size ( cubic capacity) is small the engine develops little torque...by increasing max rpm you get more power. Rotary valve engines have static opening/closing points for the inlet timing....on our little engines these points can be modified by altering the crank "window"....if you alter the bore of the crank you alter flow speed and crankcase volume. I did a thread on measuring timing somewhere, it has some links to various information...will see if I can find it.

lol...you are bang on. I have never borrowed money or been in debt or had a credit card....I am bad...give me a low rating because I obviously have no idea how to handle money....

If the plug coil is pulled out then the engine is "over scavenging"....basically the outlet is pulling more out than the inlet is letting in ( please note this is just a very basic way of trying to explain).....from the pictures the exhaust manifold is long and has a pretty brutal turn where it meets the engine, both will increase scavenging....also note that I have never used a LRP.30 or the ST Pro pipe....I can only respond to the pictures and information given.

Yes the piston and sleeve on these little engines will run until there is too much clearance between the piston/sleeve.....yes repinching the sleeve works and you can pinch to varying degrees of tightness.....but for the majority of people that have no access to a lathe the video is useless....hence people thinking they can achieve the same results with a jubilee clip.....to do the job you need decent equipment and tools...... rayaracing will do the job and even sells the tooling ( at a ridiculous price) for use with a press. Lots of information on the rayaracing site, have a look.

What fuel are you using? If it is Byrons for example then the colour of the top of the piston is fine....castor oil. The plug looks to be "cold", what plug is it and it looks like the wire is pulled out so what exhaust are you using?

Yes I agree but as said I am doubtful. Anyway I thought after the weekend, the games I had downloaded would not be playable ( online at least) but they do....so I downloaded well over a hundred quids worth of games for free...it seems....lol....tomorrow I get the EA heavy boys knocking down my door. There were plenty of other games that I could have downloaded too but I had less than zero interest in basket ball, some cage fighting type thing and American football....should have had BF Hardline but it was 75gb. Overall today I feel a litttle better about EA....lol.

Are you still looking for this? A guy I know has started selling Durango....name is John...phone number is 01404 892958...website http://rcoctane.co.uk/

When you say "crazy rich settings" do you mean the actual needle positions or that the engine is quite obviously running rich? If you mean needle position then get it running at idle then keep winding out the LSN...of course it should become so rich it will stall and if not then there is a fuel supply problem ( be it a blockage or leak). If you mean the engine is obviously running rich then take the head off and check the shims are there ( check the manual for how many and thickness) also note the condition of the top of the piston and the button...signs of pitting? To remove the carb you have to remove the collets...so undo the screw a fair way and then puush the head of the screw in...one collet is now lose...hold it and undo the screw fully...remove screw and collet....then with a small implement push the other collet out.

Titanfall is next up on the download list....then Fifa 15...then some NFS.

I am a fairly new Xbone user and today noticed this EA thingo...probably available on PC and PS4 too....anyway, it seems there is free access to this doodah at the moment on the Xbone at least....so you have a selection of EA games that you can play for free....I have tried BF4 and Dragon Age so far, waiting for some more to download...the free runs out tomorrow...looked around and this thing is 20 quid for a year...mmm...maybe EA realised summat...( pobably not but still looks like a good price for what you get).

I would expect those springs to not really be appropriate...because they are quite strong...but there are always chances to make things work...just a matter of trial and error...usually throttle return springs have fairly thin wire...but all you want the spring to do is overcome the resistance of a dead servo and return the throttle to idle......you can hook the other end wherever is appropriate...just ensure the servo is not straining when at full throttle.

I have not seen specific return springs for rotary....but a normal spring with hooks/eyelets on the ends will work fine...just need a spring strong enough to overcome the dead servo.

What colour is the head on the engine....red??...BXR...the Youtube link not working for me.

The HSN governs the total amount of fuel that will run through the carb........the engine will use most fuel when the throttle is fully open and at max rpm ( there are caveats but we need not think about them at the moment)............the LSN and slide gap combined govern how the engine runs at idle speed......So if my engine will not start or run at idle speed then I am adjusting my LSN in conjunction with the slide gap ( providing the HSN is rich enough) until it will start but still keeping the LSN rich.....all I want is the engine to keep ruunning....stay warm....then I can set HSN- LSN/gap properly.

Tuning these tiny engines with the very primitive carbs is not all that hard but I have said before many times it is a steep learning curve....if you could find someone to give you hands on help that is great but do not think you can not learn alone...especially in these days with mountains of Youtube videos and forum help.

Thanks Nitroholic...that is what I am saying. If an engine is hard to start then there are reasons.....a starter box is not some magic thing that fixes all issues. M4- if you have engines that are pullstart and have a lot of compression then why would you not just slacken the plug to start it....that is alien to my mind. That term "performance tuned" is another of my little pet hates....here we are talking about a Force .28...???

Personally I am thinking the LSN is too rich from your description hence you having to widen the slide gap to prevent it from stalling.....but what you should do is follow the easy set procedure to tune both needles to where they should be ( guide at the top of this forum section).....basically set both needles rich with a 1mm slide gap....warm the engine and start it ( advance throttle trim )....when running pootle around being gentle with the throttle for a few minutes to fully warm it then slowly apply full throttle until the engine reaches max rpm...bring it back and adjust HSN leaner....rinse and repeat until there is no performance increase ( listening to the sound of the engine) then richen the HSN back a tadge...HSN done (always adjust HSN first and with wide open throttle/max rpm because it governs the total amount of fuel that will go through the carb. and will affect the LSN setting ). So by now the fuel level may be low, check it is at least over half and top up if needed ....set the LSN with what I call stop and go tests....run it up and back then bring it to a stop next to you and let it idle for ten or so seconds then apply full throttle....keep adjusting the LSN until it takes off smooth and fast all the way to max rpm.....whilst you are leaning the LSN you will notice the idle rpm rising so keep reducing the slide gap to keep the idle speed low enough to prevent the clutch engaging, no lower. (None. of this is as complicated as I have made it sound and I would love to put paragraphs to make it easier to read but I can not...sorry....have a crack at it just be sure never to run too lean for too long).

I do love pullstarts because they are easy to use and you do not need other equipment....I like starter boxes because it means I can remove the pullstart junk from the back of the engine thus increasing performance. It is wrong to look at the starter box as an easier way to start the engine....do not take this the wrong way but if you are breaking pullstarts often then you are using it incorrectly ( short and sharp pulls ,never pull the cord out fully....), if the engine is hard to start then you are doing something wrong ( be it bad tune...wrong fuel/plug....not priming correctly...even something actually wromg with the engine that you are not noticing). Heating the engine will make it easier to start...also advancing the throttle trim but ensure the wheels are in the air....but sitting a badly tuned cold engine on a starter box and whirring away for 10 minutes before it fires (for example) is just wrong.

The "bang" in the suck-squeeze-bang-blow routine with glow fuel engines is provided by a combination of heat (provided by compressing the fuel and/or heating the glow plug) and the chemical reaction between the glow plug elements and the fuel. It will run with a blown plug.

I recently got a new generation console...Xbone...Fallout4 is great and I have over 200 hours of game time...but it is more bug ridden than any other game I have ever played...level sixty something now and fast travel has not been working since level 10 or so, lol, I walk everywhere. . I also bought the Star Wars Battlefront game without researching or even noticing Dice/EA on the box (somebody slap me), what a load of missing content that is, especially after I was determined never to buy the crap from Dice/EA ever again after the BF3 debacle... Other than that I bought Witcher3,,pfft not got going with that at all...more drivel. I did already say somewhere that I only bought new gen for FO4 and I think that is the only reason anyone should because there are not any other games setting my pants on fire.....if you want driving games then the PC is the best option now/yesterday and in future....consoles still have to cater for pads.

Even though you may have "finished" the run in period do no expect the engine to be fully ready for a balls to the wall type of tune and running......also the HSN only adjusts the maximum amount of fuel that will enter the engine and so you adjust that when the engine will use the most fuel, max rpm-full throttle....whilst the HSN adjustment will always have an effect throughout the rev range (hence setting it first) it should not be adjusted for example to improve idling or acceleration. When you look at a glow plug then you should be looking at the condition of the wire...if you run a fuel that has castor oil (like Byrons) then the base/surround will/should be brown...look at the wire...all pushed in (distorted in general) or dull grey/white then we are in trouble...

I did need a ba boom tssh with that eh? Funnily enough I remember most of my School reports saying that last bit..."Antony must try harder.....tends to do the minimum required....prefers not to pay attention with certain subjects"....yeye blabla...