Anthoop

Yes, Germany is the best price for LRP.....if you are buying from the US then look up the Novarossi .28-8 Legend....www.novarossidirect.com....$169....

You did not read that correctly. My point is that the type of fuel used has a big impact on engine performance....your 1/5 will not accellerate or turn like a 1/8...simple....the smaller engine produces more power in relation to cubic capacity and the smaller car has a better power to weight ratio. Running nitro is no problem...at least the fuel you buy is premixed...all you need to carry is a screw driver and glow ignitor.

Your 1/5 and my 1/8 cars both use 2 stroke engines....the main difference is the type of fuel used....thus 1/5 scale has larger capacity engines....will your 1/5 out turn or out accelerate a 1/8???...

The main problem with multiple engined nitro/glow cars is the basic set up....two of the same engine with two clutch....it is a nightmare to get it working...now look at two strokes from other platforms....eg motorbikes...two cylinders sharing the same crank...two sets of two cylinders running two cranks....and if you want to look waaay back then there are multi cylinder low capacity multi geared fun. Schumacher made a car called the Manic that was the best standard RC car attempt in my opinion....but it sucks....it shared a single carb between two .18 engines and the cranks were joined by belt...the exhaust was also combined which is wierd....

I never understood people using RTV and letting it set.....just put some RTV around the screw....wind screw in....done. If you are as bad as me then you trim excess after...but you do not need to lay it up and wait for it to cure.....RTV. Not over filling is a good point though.

Temp readings are very subjective and the pinch test is about as much use as a chocolate fire guard.

If the engine is ran in then you always tune the HSN first with a warm engine and wide open- high rpm runs....keep fuel level at least half full. All you look for when adjusting is peak performance...once you found/passsed it then you can correct....HSN is the easiest setting as it alters what happens when the throttle is wide open and high rpm. Next is LSN...so warm engine...drive around and then bring to a stop...wait for anywhere between 5 and 20 seconds and then apply full throttle...keep leaning the LSN until it accelerates like a rocket...note that when leaning the LSN the idle rpm will rise so keep reducing the slide/idle gap...they work together.

There is also the VS nitro roller.....the RTR models have the .21 engine that is the three port and the .30 shares many parts ( I am guessing that the .30 is replacing the Macstar .28).

I just use RTV...around the screws and the large O rings ( and grub screws) ...if it leaks from the output shafts then replace small O rings.

Whilst putting the engine to recommended settings can be good... If the engine is new then you will ( /should) only be using small amounts of throttle...so the setting of the HSN is insignificant as long as it is rich enough....eg- if the recommended HSN setting is 3.5 turns from closed, then having it set to 4.5 turns will not make any difference as you are not opening the throttle wide enough or using enough fuel for the HSN setting to matter. When the engine is at idle/low throttle/rpm then the idle gap and the LSN are your points of adjustment...and they work together....eg- if I start an engine and the idle rpm is high then I can reduce the idle gap or richen the LSN......but there can be problems.....say I reduce the idle gap and the engine stalls= LSN too lean. At any rpm/load/temperature the engine has an ideal fuel to air ratio....for run in it is normal to run the engine rich ( oil is in the fuel...two strokes need oil...when engine is new more oil helps for many reasons). As already said warming a new engine can be a great help....also what you might think is high rpm might be low/normal...you only need the engine to idle low enough to prevent the clutch engaging....and always start the car on a block until you are familiar...that way the wheels are free to turn without the car rushing off.

Don't know if you noticed but if you start a new WOT account and play one battle before May 2nd you get a free T7 Combat Car ( tier 2 US premium....can be fun but no T1E6...). I am not totally sure it will work as you already have a PS account with the same name but if I had to bet then I would say yes....

It is always worth e-mailing Logitech, I thought the warranty was 2 years......I do remember a few friends with broken G25 wheels getting brand new G27 outside of 1 year because production of G25 had ended....I am going back a few years mind but nothing to lose.

Both share many parts....bah being told off....but at least you will be able to whirr around with just gear noise...and no brake worries...

If your braking surfaces are drenched with fuel/oil then there will not be much braking action going on...you should able to lock both front and rear wheels by operating the rods with a finger and pushing the car along.

The ST has larger wheels and is even heavier then the already heavy buggy....ensure you have the linkage and arms adjusted correctly...eg- the arms with the eyelets that are linked to the brake cams should be extended= more torque.....also the yellow pads seem to be the best ( TQ2 I think...will find part numbers if needed)....and never forget you can use a four disc arrangement.

I would recommend Byrons Race 25%....I have never or ever will use Optifuel because it only uses synthetic oil ( Byron uses a slight amount of castor oil...castor burns off at a higher temperature and so gives some lean running protection....but Byron is more expensive and many people on this forum like Optifuel). Whenever changing fuel type/mix then it is usually best to reset the carb. settings so it is rich and adjust from there....HSN->LSN+slide gap...only tune a warm engine and keep the fuel level above half....( the above video was good until "pinch test").

Read my post again....Turbo plug most will choose OS or Bullitt P3...Bullitt is cheaper and I think the same...I use Novarossi C6TGC.

Did you try LFS yet....the daddy of sim racing...demo is free and not time limited...

(I am nit picking) More oil does not mean your engine is less susceptible to wear.....if anything too much oil can be far worse for an engine..... Too much oil will mean that the engine will not perform correctly ( due to the combustion process....ideally there would not be any oil)....we obviously need some oil to lubricate the moving parts and the variations of oil content can vary widely...a large part of the variation is due to the types of oil used.....more oil can give a larger tuning "window" but the performance will always be hampered due to excess oil. Trying to make an engine perform correctly when using a high oil content fuel can lead to running hot and lean....the oil is actually making things worse....any oil will burn off at a certain temperature.....synthectic lower than castor.....synthetic and castor mixes will be my preference......synthetic is a good thin oil and castor has a degree of temperature tolerance.

In the video you looked like you did not know the track .... of course the set up has to work for the track/car....LFS.

Get WOT and send me a friend request then...same user name and I can platoon with the 360.

Either engine is fine....the .21 and .28 share most parts...the only main difference is the piston and liner...and of course the engine casing being machined differently to accomodate the liner. Personally I have never encountered a difference between " tuning" a . 21 or . 28 Hyper engine....the 28 has slightly more torque and the 21 slightly more max rpm....but not much in it as standard. Parts for the 21 engine are cheaper bearing in mind the only different parts are the piston and liner, casing and head/button.

I have never played AC but the Nordschleife is my favourite track...for me it was great on Gran Turismo...I ran thousands of laps. It was on Forza too but I don't rate that at all. If you look at the real lap times of a similar car running at the Green Hell and they are similar to the game times then I think it is pretty accurate....remember that an accurate track is one thing but getting the tyre working accurately is another...still the best driving game for me is LFS, shame they do not have Nord....maybe one day and then I will get a new wheel.

I played the Doom open beta....now deleted, not for me at all. Another open beta I played this weekend was Battleborn....thought that was quite fun.

Is it turbo or standard plug ?...Standard plug has a copper washer. Standard plug- OS 8 works fine in the Hyper engines as it does in most and is cheap, widely available and hardy ....but it is a short reach plug and the Hyper engines using standard plugs are meant to use long reach, so......there are plugs from Schumacher I have used labelled as Super Cool ( I would rate them med/cold, part no is U2848) cheap, OS also do LC 3 and 4 but I have never tried them, Novarossi sell quite a few but they are pricey C5S C6S C7S ( the 5 and 6 will be what you want), McCoy MC 8 or 9 ( usually 8), there are also long reach plugs from HPI (R3/4) and Fastrax and many others but I have no experience with them. Turbo plug- Many people will choose the OS or Bullitt P3....I choose the Novarossi C6TGC.