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Posts posted by Frogeyeddog_95
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Very helpful mate, thanks a bunch.
I noticed the futaba, I wasn’t actually looking the - but did see if went very quickly.
but too pricey to buy new, but I’ll keep an eye out!
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15 hours ago, straight_six said:
Am using 55wt for shocks, replaced the stock springs to 1.1mm, front diff 20,000 cst, rear diff 15,000 cst.
When you get one, make sure you upgrade the rod end first, I would say its a must 😃
I appreciate the advice.. may I ask what the rod ends are, any chance of a photo?
im new to rc so coming to grips with different bits and pieces 😂
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2 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:
I adore this car. Your recreation looks fantastic!
I second both points.
great job!
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Saw this on your Instagram. Looks great!
is it styled on an old racing livery, or just personal choice?
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Thanks guys.
what does it mean by the number of channels? Do I need to be worrying about that sort of thing?
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- Popular Post
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Looking at replacing the stock transmitter that came with my SC10 Pro4.
I’ve seen a few names and models pop-up. But having others recommendations would be helpful.
Will I have to replace the receiver, also?
ideally I’d like one that could run a few different cars / trucks, I’m hoping my RC collection grows.
One I have seen (pretty decent price) is the Absima CR3P - comes with two rx. Are these worth a punt?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/434779?gclid=Cj0KCQiAx6ugBhCcARIsAGNmMbjmZK9Pn9Hc5IZNrAQWu_SHoVCLB0P8joHTdXHPf8t1ucUFHvb8X4MaAhASEALw_wcB -
Hi Fred,
The truck was bought 2nd hand so I doubt I’ll be able to source anything under warranty.
is there a way of knowing what transmitters would connect to the stock receiver? Or do I just buy new?
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Yes I am. I believe everything is stock.
what are your thoughts on it?
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10 minutes ago, Bajadre said:
could be TX batteries frogey cheapest fix also check the rx wire hasnt been damaged etc then last possible electric interference if you changed any electrics like servo rx motor esc lately? or dropped the TX accidently could be loose antenna wire inside
Hi BajadreI’ll replace the batteries and see if that helps. I won’t be using it for a while, so the outcome will have to wait!
in the meantime it’s due a good clean, so I’ll see if anything obvious shows up.
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Took the Pro4 out today for a quick bash. However the range was rubbish, probably a third of what it was when I used it previously. (Only last weekend, give or take)
Could it simply be the batteries in the tx? (4x Duracell, maybe 3 hours of use tops, and only 2 weeks old)
Any tips on where / what to look at would be helpful.
Thanks
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On 18/09/2022 at 22:57, tomr said:
These rally cars got me hooked mate 🎣
I'm looking at getting the kit, but the standard version (lack of carbon and no mudflaps) Unfortunately the top spec kit is sold out everywhere.
I was originally looking at joining in on the silver can budget build, but this seems to offer a little more bling than a Tamiya TT-01 / TT02. So i'm hoping my first rally build will have the PTG2 as its chassis.
What weights did you end up using in the diff & shocks?
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Apologies,
Land Rover - £110 obo (posted)
Price dropped on crane - £110 obo (posted)
Thanks
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1 minute ago, bigbadbond said:
Hi @Kpowell911 I bought the skyrc S65 charger and used it on the weekend. I just wanted to ask, have you used the 'Lipo Storage' function? I tried it in order to charge a 2S lipo I had just used up 3.8v as I won't be using the battery for a couple of weeks. It charged both cells up to around 3.8v but then sat there for a while and seemed to idle around 3.7 - 3.8. I stopped it manually in the end. I was expecting it to end the charge when it hit 3.8 on each cell. Just wondered if you have used that function? Also should you always using the 'Lipo Balance CHG' function everytime as I noticed there was another function for 'Lipo Charge'. There wasn't much in the manual to explain what the difference was?
Thanks!
My very limited experience would suggest you have done the storage charge correctly.
The handful of times I have charged and then discharged it has fluctuated slightly.
I think there needs to be some allowance given between both the charger and batteries used.
I tended to connect the battery back to the charger to double check the volts.
my charger, the one I recommended also has both options of lipo charge.
balance charging ensures all cells are charged equally. This helps prolong the life and ensures it is safe to use.
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On 03/03/2023 at 22:09, Shergar said:
I'm leaning extremely heavily toward a TT-02.
I also found myself dragged along to the hop-up side of things.
Besides shocks and bearings, is there anything else that may be worth upgrading straight up? lots of nice looking blue & red aluminium parts.
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2 hours ago, Kpowell911 said:
I hate the fact I opened this thread. I have 17 R/Cs. Im sat on the balcony of a hotel in Spain waiting for my Mrs to finish getting ready, searching eBay for cheap Tamiyas!
My TL-01 isnt even running yet!!
Point me in some sort of direction… 😂 where do I start..
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15 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:
with Tamiyas you usually have to factor in cost of a bearing kit as they come with plastic bushings and also usually plastic friction shocks
Maybe i'd be out of my depth just jumping straight in.
I'll see if i can do a bit of reasearch, it may be Youtube tonight
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I appreciate the help, nice to have another set of eyes on it.
What is the main difference between a touring car / drift setup and a rally spec?
Ridge height & wheels & tyres?
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or this...?
apologies for all of the messages. Busy at work this afternoon.. as you can see
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How about something like this for a starting point?
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Any advice on how I can make a start setting up a budget rally?
Completely new to RC, but a recent purchase of Pro4 SC10 has gotten me hooked.
Looking on ebay for a chassis just brings up lots of letters and numbers following the word Tamiya..
Tips on whats good and whats not would be helpful!
Xpert WR-4401 Servo - Waterproof.
in For RC Sales
Posted
£40 plus postage?