ZaphodB

Thanks for the replies folks. Not what I wanted to hear but something I'll have to accept I guess as all four of you think it is reasonable. Zaph

Hi folks, Do you think the company's response is reasonable? I've had an Overlander 7.2V NiMH 3300 pack fail just short of 12 months. Not overcharged, not deep discharged, not thermally abused. No physical damage, not shorted. Used a total of, perhaps 20 times in that period (race meetings are bi-weekly and I have missed a few). One week after a race night, it was at 7.5V for the pack (storage charge), two weeks later the pack voltage was 1.38V and it wouldn't charge. I have the original receipt when purchased (14th Nov 2022). They offer a 1 year warranty, section 5.1.1 of their Terms & Conditions: I contacted them on 6th Nov for a warranty replacement. Overlander's response? "Given that you have been using this battery for nearly a year, we are unable to provide a replacement under these circumstances." In short, "You've used it, we won't replace it". Retailer contacted Overlander, was told what they'd told me and refused to refund/replace. His best offer was to let me buy a new pack "at cost price". Zaph Overlander Warranty.bmp

Thanks Shergar (I thought you disappeared back in 1983 after being stolen?) Will check that out - looks promising. Zaph

Hi folks, Trying to get my TT02 to be a bit more tunable to improve grip levels. I've put adjustable upper arms front and rear in order to adjust camber (currently running -1 deg at front and -2 deg at rear). I've fitted 2-deg rear hubs (toe-in) but there doesn't seem to be anything available for the front. Currently it has the stock plastic steering arms (shown below). Ideally looking for a turn-buckle solution in order to have a range of adjustment If folks have suggestions, the relevant part numbers (or ideally a link) would be ideal. Thanks in advance, Zaph (excuse the dirty chassis/tyres - not cleaned up from last night's racing 😄 )

Hi, Looking for some suggestions for the front and rear suspension mounts / shock tyres. Ideally, something that gives a high defree of adjustment. I was looking at the Fastrax FTTA013B aluminium shock towers, but the TT-02B Aluminium Front Shock Tower (FTTA032B) is a better bet as it looks like it has more options for the suspension mount positioning. Big question is though, will it fit the standard TT-02 or not. A waste of £16 if I buy one and find out that it doesn't fit. The Fastrax FTTA013B is only £13 and is made for the TT-02. Anyone able to help? Will the TT-02B shock tower fit the standard TT-02? Cheers, Zaph

Am I correct in thinking that the wheel offset alters what in 1:1 scale is called the track - i.e. the distance *between* the wheels from one side to the other? So, with a wheel with zero offset on a 190mm body, if I used a 200mm body on the same chassis, I'd need a wheel with +5mm offset to bring the wheel to the same relative position with the wider body? Or, to put it another way, using a +5mm offset wheel in place of a zero offset wheel would *increase* the track by 10mm, making the car more laterally stable? Or have I got this somewhat confused? If I am correct, how do you go about measuring the offset on a wheel that you have (assuming that you didn't take a note at the time you bought them what it was)? Zaph

HI folks, Looking to replace the kit-supplied bearings with ball bearings. Any recommended - there seem to be lots out there. Also, I have some Yeah Racing Spring Steel Driveshafts of the front. Are there any available for the rear (to get rid of those awful plastic dogbones)? Cheers, Zaph

Hi folks, I have a basically 4WD stock TT02 - save for an aluminium centre prop shaft, spring steel dogbones in the front and an aluminium motor mount. I understand that as built, the rear hubs are set to negative 0.5 deg toe in. Is there any way to have adjustable rear toe - I was wondering if the Yeah Racing TTAT-019BU would allow me to do this. However, it seems that I'd also need TTAT-010 as well. Is there anothwer way to achieve adjustable toe in that isn't as expensive? The Yeah Racing TT02-007-2BU hubs offer 2-deg of toe in but it is a fixed 2 degrees. Zaph

Yep, same here. I got a product page where it said it didn't ship to my location and when I checked the flag, the country was set to Afghanistan. Set it to the UK - able to order the product. Zaph

Update: Well the two servos I'd ordered came on 1st March - about a week before the estimated delivery date of 8th. Well impressed. Having looked at more servos since then the Spt 5410LV servo seems to be a winner - 0.07s at 6.0V (ideal if your ESC doesn't have a variable BEC function and only puts out 6.0V). However, several of the vendors that list servos (and ancilliary parts) are saying things like "This product can't be shipped to your address. Select another product or address. " Bizarrely, one product was ok for a single item, if I selected quantity of 2 I got the "Product can't be shipped" message *shrugs*. Anyone else getting this? Is the site temporarily 'broken' in places?? Zaph

That’s a good point Tug We could try running with and without the fans (he’s running two) then try it with one. We’ll see what happens on Monday night. Zaph UPDATE: Well ... It ran better but there still seemed to be the odd brief dropout and a fellow (experienced) racer commented that the car seemed to have transmitter issues. We decided to drop the Tx/Rx back to the retailer (in a day or two when it is convenient - the shop is 40 miles away) and we'll see what they say. Zaph

Thanks @Bajadre Unfortunately, my son needs more than a 3Ch receiver (steering servo, ESC, MRT Transponder and at least one fan). The current Planet RC Proteus is a 6Ch affair so more than enough capacity (as can be seen in the first picture in Wednesday's post). Looking at the FlySky FS-ST8 Tx/Rx combo (my son prefers stick throttles to wheels). We will swap the radio gear into a Tamiya TT-02 chassis that has the kit-supplied Tamiya ESC and see if it still has loss-of-signal issues next Monday evening (27th). If it does in a 20 x 10m hall then it is deffo either the Tx or Rx unit methinks. Zaph

Tnanks Andy, That's an idea - we hadn't considered that. Will give that a go. Zaph

Can't post a pic of the old set-up as I've had a go at 're-plumbing' the electrics to make it much more tidy (and less of a rat's nest of wires) but I can post the 'new & improved' setup no problem. Haven't run the car with this new wiring set-up yet - last race meet was on 17th Feb and I only re-wired the car on Monday 20th. Pic below is of the new wiring. Note the above has a NiMH battery pack, in race meetings, we run a 6000mAh 2S Hard Case LiPo. [Car is an X-Ray T1 FK '05 dating from 2005 (so Vintage) as is the ESC which is a Novak GTX. The hardest part of running this car now is adapting it to fit a LiPo battery. Picture above shows our bodged solution - using Velcro straps attached to the battery retaining strap. I have just finished a further mod today to use Velcro on the batteries themselves - which is shown below.] @bajadre Sorry for the late reply to your post (above). Budget is sub-£100, ideally below £80. Looking at the FlySky FS-ST8 with the FS-SR8 receiver which (if you can get one) seems to be about £80. Any thoughts on this transmitter/receiver combo? Looking to control a 1/10 on-road RC car. Cheers, Zaph

Took the plunge with AliExpress and ordered a couple of SRT 10kg / 0.07s servos (cheap & cheerful - they'll do as spares if nothing else although they seem to get good reviews). Paid with Paypal so less worry about card theft. Est delivery date is 8th March so only 3 weeks - we'll see how it goes. Regarding Excise Duty & VAT, yes, I'd read that the threshold was higher now. Really adds to the cost when HMRC slap Import Duty on, then VAT on the total bill (inc postage) and Royal Mail charge you an extra £10 to collect the duty on behalf of HMRC. Been bitten a couple of times with this - especially when importing stuff from the USA. Zaph

Thanks for confirming the 1080 has variable BEC voltage. Sorry to hijack your thread Mr Beeblebrox - not an issue as far as I am concerned 🙂 Zaph

Thanks Storm, I didn't know you could alter the BEC voltage! Not sure my Carson allows you to do that (I suspect not), nor the Hobbywing 1080 I'm considering. My son is running an ancient Novak GTX which has a 6.0V / 3.0A BEC output and doesn't appear toe be adjustable. (GTX manual is here) We also have a couple of Novak GT7 ESCs (manual here) Zaph

Thanks fotr the link Ginge I had a quick look last night on my iPad but the AliExpress website and the iPad weren't playing nicely together! The macBook is dealing better with the webpage - but the AliExpress search function seems to be pants. The SPT 4412 that you pictured looks good but only a LV version. My son is using 2S LiPo packs so would need to reduce the voltage (or would 8.4V be okay?) They haven't (as far as I looked last night) have a HV version of that servo? Just a quick question on AliExpress. Never ordered from them before. Are they quick? Do HMRC slap any import duty on them? Cheers, Z

Sorry for spamming the forum this evening 😜 Currently using (what my son and I thought) was a pretty decent (but cheap) servo. Purchased from Amazon it is a DS3225 25kg (probably overkill for 1/10 TC steering!), metal-geared, 0.13s servo (this one). It seems that we need a servo with a faster response - fellow racers at the club are saying anything under 0.1s is "good" and many of them use 0.06 or 0.07s servos from the likes of SRT, such as this one These seem to be extremely expensive. Whilst my son is much more competetive than me, I don't think he needs such a fast servo just yet. I certainly don't need one - although if you think I do, please say so! So, can you recommend any cheap-ish (i.e. under £40) servos with a fast response, suitable for a 1/10 Touring Car. What sort of stength servo is appropriate 5kg or under, under 10kg, under 20kg?? Any brands to go for and any brands to avoid?? I'm guessing that metal-geared servos are better, as are metal-cased servos (for better heat dissipation). Then there's coreless and brushless ... Finally, some folks last night seemed to know what the numbers on the servos mean - they have got to refer to the servo performance surely? For example, the servoo that we are both currently using (see first part of this post) - what do the numbers 3225 mean (or even DS3225 for that matter - DS for 'Digital Servo'?). Seems that the end number '25' refers to the 25kg torque? I've found this servo which seems to give a great 'bang for your buck' - Macgregor MG2810HV 0.07s 10kg servo for £35 (as seen here). From my research, it seems that this is a 'badge engineered' JR servo and that JR servos are well regarded (or have I got that round my neck too?) Once again, thanks in advance, Zaph

Thanks. 1080 is now on the shopping list 🙂 Sadly my "cheapo" RC transmitter is only 2-channel. Looking at possibly getting a Planet Proteus 6Ch (if they are any good) - subject of a question in a different thread. Current receiver is 3-channel + BEC (which gives throttle, steering, fan power and MRT transponder power. Zaph

Okay, So I have a few questions on receivers that perhaps the cognescenti can help with 🙂 1. My son seems to be getting some interference with his 2.4GHz transmitter/receiver combo. He has a Planet RC TS2+2 2-Channel Stick Transmitter with 6-channel Planet Proteus receiver. Could it be the aerial is too close to the power leads - specically the motor leads? We've done what we can to move them as far away as possible but he is still having issues in a small sports/community hall (approx 20m x 10m) where he appears to be either losing signal or getting interference. And yes, we have changed the transmitter batteries for fresh ones! Is there any way to change the transmitting channel (like Broadband WiFi routers using a less "clogged' channel for better bandwidth? 2. Can you use any receiver with this transmitter? I'm guessing that the answer is "generally, yes" however aren't Spektrum sysstems somewhat finnicky and don't play nicely with other manufacturer's equipment (or do I have that somewhat round my neck?) 3. If you can use any receiver with this transmitter, is the Planet Proteus okay or are there better ones (i.e. with better reception - e.g. Futaba)? 4. If the Planet transmitter/receiver combo is a poor choice - can you suggest a better transmitter and/or receiver that is at the "budget" end of the market (in other words, not in the £100+ bracket). Given the size of the hall, I'm most surprised that he seems to be having these sorts of issues. Tnanks in advance, Zaph

Thanks Nitro. Can you recommend a sutable ESC? Thanks also to Alex and Big Ginge for their input - much appreciated. I rather suspected (being £20-odd cheaper) that the 1060 was simply ON/OFF for the drag brake. Thanks also for the link which I'll check out. UPDATE: That was a useful document - seems that the 1080 is tunable to a reasonable degree - e.g. can set the drag brake to 0 / 5 / 10 / 50 / 60 / 70 / 80 / 90 and 100%. Also the rate at which the drag brake is applied which affects how aggressively the brake is applied when triggered. Can also set the maximum throttle in 4 steps - 25 / 50 / 75 and 100% which would be useful I suspect for "training" purposes - in other words, don't go full chat into a corner until you know you can brake/steer approprately to negotiate it). Looks like the 1080 might be the way to go - until I go brushless that is! Zaph

As Stormbringer said, glue the tyres to the rims. You can use ordinary superglue. Some folks advise to just glue one shoulder (e.g. the inside shoulder of the tyre) rather than both claiming it gives more grip *shrugs* Zaph

Well, I removed the plug/jumper as suggested by Alex and Monkeyboy and yes, this activated a drag brake. Thank you. I think this will suit me - however in this particuar ESC it is an ON/OFF option and the car was rather stop/starty Possibly an ESC with a selectable drag brake - usually between 0 and 40/45% - would be better. An 'all or nothing' drag brake might suit a crawler but it doesn't really work for 1/10 indoor TC racing. So, looking to get a Hobbywing 1060 or 1080. So this leads to the question of whether the 1060 has a selectable drag brake setting or is it the ON/OFF option I already have with the Carson? I believe that the 1080 has a range of drag brake settings but would welcome confirmation on this (and the range/steps available if possible). Thanks in advance, Zaph

Thanks! I did say that "With respect, why does it matter?" then outlined my reason for the question. I like to think that I am respectful on the forum as usually I am asking for help and unlike the majority of folks, remember to thank folks that have helped with the solution to my problem. Currently, I am trying to corner by lifting off the throttle whilst steering and forgetting to apply any brake. If my understanding of the drag brake is correct, then I will apply the brakes simply by lifting off. Whether I can live with 100% brake or not I'll have to see. Further research indicates that the 1060 has an 'all or nothing' drag brake but the 1080's is adjustable. Thanks to those that have offered help or answered queries. It is much appreciated. Zaph