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adamtuckett

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  1. Suffered the embarrassment of battery coming out in a crash, and its taken a chunk out of the casing (See below): http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/5779/img3823j.jpg The insides don't look touched, and I would love to know if its safe to repair the casing and any suggestions what with!? Thanks! Adam
  2. I've made the decision to go brushless, but would welcome some advice! It looks like 10.5T is the best class (if my understanding that it is equivalent to 19t?). Whats the best way to connect the motor to the speed controller? Is the LRP Eraser and AI brushless Speedo a good purchase? Some websites are doing it as a bundle for about
  3. Anyone got any comments on this one? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=29666 Thanks
  4. Want to get the best of my batteries, which are a mix of 3300 & 3700 stick packs, can anyone recommend a good charger, that is both 240v/12v? Thanks!
  5. Excuse my naivety but what difference do the connectors make?
  6. Motor is pretty new, its only done about 2 test sessions and this one race, so it ought to be pretty good? Connectors are tamiya style
  7. Just done my first race, which went well, but noticed a lack of acceleration in comparison to competition, almost embarrassingly slow off the line! Have got 3 smaller pinion gears to try, but also wondering what to get battery wise. I have 2 3300 packs and 1 3700 pack, and the 3700 pack was 0.5-1sec quicker per lap. I am using a Nosram International speed control and a Team Scream 27t ROAR. I don't want to get into putting my own battery packs together yet, so whats the best highest capacity batteries I can run (for a reasonable price) and can anyone recommend a charger. My current one only goes to 3.5, so struggles to charge the 3700 MaH battery. Thanks! Adam
  8. I bought a cyclone s rtr a few months back. Not started racing yet because it was slow, but have upgraded motor to Team Scream Roar Monster (27t) which required upgrading the speed control to Nosram International. On rough lap times, its much faster and comparable to times others are doing. Circuit is Cotswolds (http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/) not too far from Bristol
  9. This looks interesting - would you recommend it, being on a budget! http://www.nosram.com/products.asp?id=53 (about £35)
  10. Have now tried it at the track - but still overheats and cuts out! Great turn of speed, until it pulls up to a halt! What ESCs do people run with Team Scream 27t Roars?
  11. Ansmann ACX1 Peak Detect Fast Charger (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=13082)
  12. Treated myself to a high capacity 37000 mah NiMH battery today, to get home and notice my charger's highest capacity is 3500 mah... Can I use the battery with the charger at all without any damage, or is it time to get a better charger too? and if so any recommendations? Thanks
  13. Whilst I am intending to race at Cotswolds (Kemble - http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/trackinfo.htm), this is happening when test running in our cul-de-sac. Are there any guides to calculating gear ratios?
  14. I've just installed a 27t Teamscream Roar in my HB Cyclone, that has greatly improved speed, but after a few minutes running the ESC is cutting out as it is getting very hot Gear ratios are 42 pinion, 96 spur (64 pitch), and batteries are 2300MaH NiCad. My limited knowledge tells me the ESC is not up to the job? Its the bog standard 'HPI Jolt +r', that comes with the Cyclone RTR. I need to upgrade the ESC prior to racing as I don't think reverse can be disabled, so any suggestions welcome, or please tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree! I also want to get some higher capacity batteries, as the run time (barring cut outs) for the 2300 MaH wasn't very long. Thanks for any assistance!
  15. Thanks for the replies - the batteries are all new, but clearly low spec. They are Ni-Cads. I think the motor is pretty shoddy too. I've swapped it for a standard tamiya 540 (that came with a 4wd off roader) and run it in the cul-de-sac this morning, timing how long it takes to get between 2 drain covers. The motor that came with the kit took about 5 seconds from a standing start and had reached top speed before it got to the other drain. The Tamiya took 4 seconds and I think had just reached top speed. The motor wasn't particularly hot yesterday, even after 11-12 minute runs. I think a decent motor, decent batteries and some high and low pinion gears are in order - then another good day at the track testing.
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