ColosTommy

Thanks, I still haven't ran it for an extended period. I have some fans on order for the motors. I'm worried with all the extra weight i'm gonna overheat and melt something or worse end up in a fireball, so many unknowns i'm a bit paranoid. I'm just running it on a 13tooth pinion at the moment, so it definitely shouldn't be over geared. Once i've done some extended testing and am happy with it, i will start upping the gearing and see how it goes. It's got a GNNS GPS mounted internally, so once its running well i should be able to pull some interesting data i hope. I'd love to get the Hobbywing Max6 combo for it in the future, but with two ESC's and two motors things like that start to get pricey and hard to justify.

I thought some of you may be interested in seeing this. It's one of those things i did because i could, rather than there being any real reason or need for it. It's based off of the Arrma 6s series (outcast and kraton). There is a full build thread over on the Arrma forum if you are interested in more of the details of the build. I need to get some proper photos of it now its finished (kinda).

Got my new HPI today as an early birthday present. It's the SC not the ST but i couldn't find a thread for that and didnt think you guys would mind.

So ordering new from a retailer doesnt make sense. Does anyone have experience with RC breakers, is this the kind of thing they can deal with, are they well priced? Or better still anyone got half an outcast they want to get rid of cheap?

Just went through and did it roughly, still a few little bits i was missing, came to in excess of £300 from model sport, there are a load of RTR second hand vehicles i could pick up for £400 take the parts i need, sell the elctronics and still have half a car in spare parts, for the same or less money.

Hi, So I'm in need of a load of parts for an Arrma Outcast 6s truck. The thing is its not just a new diff case, or a new front bumper, it's essentially the whole back end of the car. I'm looking to get everything from the rear prop shaft back except shock tower, dampers and springs, wheels, and rear chassis brace. When i've just needed a spare part or five, i've picked it up from a few of the usual suspects (make it build it, modelsport, wheelspin) but when im dealing with so many parts im not sure the best course of action. Should i place a wanted post on this forum and some facebook groups and just hope and pray the right person sees it? Are there any UK breakers you guys would recommend for this kind of order? Order all the parts individually from a previously mentioned retailer? I dread to think how much all that would add up to new in parts. Or would i end up being better off picking up the cheapest 6s outcast/notorious/kraton i can find, and stripping it for the parts i require , while have the rest as spare parts for breakages? The last option feels wastefull but may end up being the most cost effective, which seems a bit of a joke. Anyway any help or advice from people more experienced in this scene and hobby would be greatly appreciated. Tom

Back in the early 90's my parents bought me my first rc car, you guessed it the blitzer beetle by tamiya. I have fond memories of building it with my dad and playing with it, so when i recently got back into the hobby i liked the idea of creating a little homage to it. This is the first time i have painted a lexan body in anything other than one solid colour, and while it isn't perfect, i'm very happy with the result for a first attempt. At first i tried the 30 year old original blitzer shell on, but it was far too small. I then bought a proline body shell second hand off of here. Thanks @Gaz! I went about sketching the design on the outside. I then tried multiple coats of vallejo liquid masks, but when i went to cut the design out with a scalpel it just dragged, so that was sacked off for the old reliable masking tape. I painted the whole thing, reinforced the inside with skrim and some ct1 (hated this part) Then the end result was this....

I have to agree with you, imo the unimog looks a million times better. Nice work.

Thanks Locky for posting that link. I've now spent way too much time going through loads of his videos confusing the hell out of me 🙂 So according to this all things being equal, a longer can size will produce more torque and like wise all things being equal a larger diameter will produce more torque. Again as was said before it becomes somewhat useless when its very hard to get specs for motors in order to compare, but he has some interesting videos none the less.

This is less about the right motor for my purpose, as you say, just bashing around popping wheelies, in all honesty the stock motor is fine for my needs, and i dont 'plan' on upgrading excluding mechanical failure, was just more interested in the workings and details because its all like witchcraft to me.

I own an Arrma Outcast 6s. I am not really looking to buy a new motor for it (hopefully), just started down a rabbit hole, realised i knew nothing (a common occurrence), and wanted to learn/understand a bit more about it all. There's plenty of threads of people saying fit this motor to that car, but i was more trying to understand the WHY and what advantages/disadvantages came along with each variable, and my god there are a lot of variables. The only manufacturer i have found that really lists specs for their motors, and isn't just a glorified advert is TP Motors. Where you can choose windings and they give you a spec sheet to reference.

It seems that you really have to dig into the specific motor manufactures specs on the motors to really get all the information you need, rarely do the websites that are selling the motors to the consumers seem to have all the detailed specs, and even it seems the manufactures themselves don;t help much. Then you start getting into windings, and theres even more to figure out. So you basically want the largest can you can (length) possible fit in your chassis, correct? As this should have more magnets? And will help with heat dissipation, reduce thermal throttling and reduce the likelyhood of burning out the motor? Please tell me that statement is at least true

It seems that you really have to dig into the specific motor manufactures specs on the motors to really get all the information you need, rarely do the websites that are selling the motors to the consumers seem to have all the detailed specs. Then you start getting into windings, and theres even more to figure out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qkSPjNmxcl4" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> Deeper down the rabbit hole Thanks so far, will go back and edit.

I've read some of the stickies here, and watched a number of different youtube videos in an attempt to understand motors and their workings. While this has worked to some degree, it has also left me with many more questions than i had at the start as well. I was hoping some of the more experienced people here could help to impart some knowledge, and maybe if this thread goes well it could help other new people who get into the hobby and are somewhat overwhelmed by the huge choice and options that are out there. From what i can gather there are a number of different factors that will affect how a motor will perform. For the sake of simplifying i will forget about sensorless vs sensored, and assume a set diameter to the motor. If there is something I'm missing off of this list, or more importantly I am understanding something incorrectly please reply, inform me and i will try to edit it. 1. The length of the motor: So a 4060 vs a 4070. Both have a 40mill diameter but one is 60mm long the other 70mm (A greater length=Higher KV but lower max RPM???) Incorrect a larger length allows more magnets which can increase torque, but does not inherently mean a motor has more Kv 2. The voltage you are using: So a 2400Kv motor ran on a different voltage will give different RPM (2s=17760rpm, 3s=26640rpm, 4s=35520rpm, 6s=53280rpm) 3. The Kv of the motor. With the same 6s a higher Kv motor increases RPM (2000Kv=44000rpm, 2400Kv=53280rpm, 2600Kv=57720rpm ) Everything seems to be geared toward increasing rpm (bad pun intended) when you upgrade your motor. There is no talk about increased torque or how an upgraded motor performs (better or worse?) in the low end torque acceleration. Is the only reason to ever upgrade, if you are looking for more top speed, so need the increase of RPM (again forgetting the sensored vs sensorless side of things, and replacing due to mechanical failure) Or is there a natural upgrade to torque and acceleration with the increase in rpm/Kv that is just never stated/quantified? Or if you want the increase in torque acceleration but not top end, do you increase the motor Kv/rpm then gear the motor down with new pinions etc? Torque is a product of Kv and Amps for a given motor, so a higher or lower Kv doesent mean more or less torque by itself. Just trying to understand all the angles on this, it is alot to get your head around as a newbie.

Thanks for that, appreciate it.

Could one of you lovely chaps with a DR8 measure the tyre diameter and width for me. I'm unable to find the information online anywhere. Thanks in advance.