GPdori740

Hello you all and Greetings from America! (its ok, I know) I just wanted to take a moment and introduce myself and thank you all for having such a good forum. I'm from Oregon in the U.S., and have been into RC cars for about 6 years now. I started with 1/10 scale electric crawler i pieced together from a Redcat Everest 10, and an Axial scx10.2 chassis. i drove that for a couple years then traded it for my first nitro rc, a Traxxas T-maxx 2.5 classic and i have been hooked on nitro ever since. i then got a Redcat Lightning STR 1/10 on-road, despite it being Redcat i have always had great luck with them and really enjoy the STR, it has been reliable, fast, easy to tune and tough enough for me ( im fairly decent) to enjoy. my next car i purchased after a long search was a HPI RS4 III nitro drift RTR! I am very much into nitro drifting!* with the right tires, suspension setup, and weight distribution it is very possible to enjoy long high speed drifts with a fair amount of accuracy. I see there are a few posts here about nitro drifting, i would love to talk more to any one reading this to share ideas and setups and parts to keep our units running and and assembled. if you are into it, you understand it is rare to find someone that is actually into nitro drifting and practices it, also how hard it is to come by the right parts XD anyways, hope i didn't ramble too much and look forward to forum-ing with ya'll ✌ 🚗💨

They (Hpi) designed their Type-A radials for nitro drifting. you need a rubber/resin compound. rubber is too grippy, resin or plastic is too slick for nitro. there needs to be a balance. HPI type As are long discontinued and hard to come by. some options to try would be Tamiya type D tires, they are a resin rubber mix. havent used them myself yet though but have read decent things. when it comes to plastic "drift" tires, find the softest. when its rubber, find the hardest possible. Also, to be able to maintain drifting you need to move the engine forward to about mid chassis, fuel tank on the opposite side but slightly to the rear, and battery pack in front of that, opposite of the engine. that distributes the weight. an electronic gyro or D-box will eventually be necessary to achieve smooth transitions over and over again. look up hpi nitro drift, or stage d conversion, or rs4 3 drift..examine the chassis layout. making an aluminum chassis to accommodate is fairly simple, using a grinder with cutoff wheel, hand files, and a drill.