adolf hamster

i actually bothered to do measurements, and a .30 4 stroke will fit the same mounts as a hpi g3.0. i should imagine, although i havent done the measurements for a big block that a .40-.50 ish should be the same as a big block. tbh though, its not worth it for something like a buggy. you'll have so many headaches with gearing

WAGON!

the scooby is just awful, i mean whats so wrong with the way the original looked? the phaeton, why on earth is a phaeton going that cheap?

i'm not going to say lipos dont hold an advantage for rx batteries, but i will say there's not exactly much point when something like the orion marathon 1900 is really all you actually need for bashing. if you do go for one though, i'd say the lrp wouldnt be a bad place to start. just remember you'll need a cutoff at least. plus you'll probably not see the advantage unless you direct feed the servos from the battery

i have a scale for things like this. it begins at 0- being awful and it ends at 10- being epic this thing was registering at least 20 by the end of page 1. i'd tell you what it is now but my counter broke halfway through page 2

this video is utterly sick. he was still alive at the end i mean what kind of assassin is that damn stupid?

you can bolt it anywhere thats sensible, i bolted mine to the chassis after drilling out a hole, but anywhere is good, just make sure there's enough thread depth leftover if your using an existing hole, otherwise you'll want a longer screw

bolt the filter to the chassis [should have come with a wee plastic mount]. then use longer fuel line. you dont want your fuel line to be too short cos when it flips you'll have less time to get to it and right it before it stalls. there's no real disadvantage to longer fuel line if its done neatly

a nitro of a given size is much more powerful than its petrol variant. but also much more thirsty. if you put a 30cc nitro engine in a baja [and yes such things exist, the os plane engine range for starters] it will be far too powerful for any mortal drivetrain and burn through a tank in 15 minutes. whereas with petrol you get an hours runtime and perfectly adequate power for the job at hand.

yeah, well try not throttling on the jumps. used to have the same problem with the baja till a mate of mine told me about that technique

looking good, i do hope its strong enough, if it were me i'd be paranoid that hitting a small stone at speed would wreck the thing

are you driving over the jumps correctly? if you floor it on the actual jump you'll find the compression in the springs caused by accelleration will unload as soon as the front wheels are off the jump. try easing off the throttle when you actually hit the jump and if that doesnt do enough floor it again in the air, just make sure you arent still flooring it when you hit the ground else your in for a broken driveshaft.

the same way you cool a 2 stroke nitro in a car. the first rc cars used plane engines and i have never seen a 4 stroke conversion that has needed cooling mods. i think the reasoning is that 4 strokes dont produce as much heat as 2 strokes.

i wonder how many people have actually been injured thinking cod worked like real life

your missing out dude, thats all i'm saying.

kingjulian has the right idea. for some people [to which group i belong] 4wd can be rather tame. there's nothing like the risk of snap oversteer that makes driving so much more fun.

http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=1149 thats the cheapest 4 stroke i've managed to find [the .30]. was gonna get that for my firestorm, except for the gearing issues

a good pipe, a good tune, and good driving skills. its easier to enjoy the performance you have than to spend a lot of money trying to get the performance you want

you can fit an rc kit to a car. the largest i've seen can't have been more than a 2 litre, but theoretically the largest possible would be 64000cc [the capacity of the largest engine on a 4 wheeled vehicle that could easily be retrofitted to rc that i am aware of]

in that case there really are no disadvantages whatsoever

if i had a penny..... basically in the world of 2 stroke rc car engines it goes thusly: bigger= more torque, less revs smaller=less torque more revs notice how i didnt use the word power? if you want a good engine, buy a good engine. i am by no means slating that engine or indeed any large engines. think of an f1 car compared to a dodge charger. going by engine size alone surely the charger will win everything. but obviously this is not the case. and the reason why is exactly the same, design and manufacture. if you feel like more torque, gutsy low-end wheelspin but with a not too impressive top end [in relative terms] then by all means go for the force. but tbh, there's so much gain to be had sticking to what you have. i find posts about power amusing, simply because asides from me baja, i have never had an rc that genuinly warrented more power. in the words of a wise man i know 'it can drive faster than you can control it, it doesnt need to go faster'

provided you re-tuned to compensate. dont worry about the changes. there are no disadvantages to a longer fuel line that i am aware of besides them being slightly untidy.

i beleive the entire point is that you dont know its coming camstreet

or press shift and the left arrow key. enjoy....