[Hobao DC1 Owners]

That looks pretty smart, I am finding to me anyway it handles better with the battery over the rear. I don’t do extreme side climbs though…

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Thanks  @MrPeaski I might give those a try, but will see if my new tyres arrive early next week first to make sure they are tall enough - spec says 120mm but as always with the Far East supply need to measure what’s delivered!

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

3 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

Smart looking trailer 

I figured its a bit of fun, somewhere to keep the sandwiches when out on a long drive? 😉

I have the chassis and toolbox printed, along with small parts for the rear bumper and "lights" and "vents", the big box (in white) is on the printer now ETA 3am, but I am missing the tow hardware as I ordered a new bumper set front/rear from China and that's still in the post along with the trailer hitch part that needs to bolt on to the trailer.

 

I'll probably spend ages making it then never use it... but half the fun is in the built right!

[WL Toys Owners Thread]

Looks like my car has made it from China to UK... just not to me yet.

 

I am looking at ordering alloy front bearing carrier and arms as I think they are a weak point? The alloy ones seem to be cheaper as a full set rather than buying just the bits needed, and it seems that the hex drives on the axles are another weak point and the alloy ones are better - anyone have any experience?

 

I don't want to order a lot of parts before I have the car, but equally chinese new year is getting closer and I would rather than stock in the post before they shut down than break the car and china is closed for new year and I can't get parts.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

@MrPeaski Nice job on the front bumper, can I ask about your axle stands, the ones I printed from Thingiverse are not a great fit for the DC1 axle, are those ones you designed or are they someone from 'tinternet somewhere?

 

Tyres: The Kit tyres are 115mm tall, and the ones I ordered are a bit taller at 120mm and I am hoping they visually look a bit more chunky:

Injora Tyres

 

Not got them yet, but I need more tyres as I am (amazingly slowly!) 3d printing this offroad trailer from thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3543490

 

I already bought alloy beadlockers so I already have 9 wheels, but only 5 tyres so I needed more tyres anyway for the trailer so if they turn out to be rubbish rubber when they arrive I will keep Hobao on the DC1 and put the Injora ones on the trailer - I think the Injora tyres will look better so as long as they are not made of bakealite I will swap them onto the beadlockers.

 

 

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Still pleased with my DC1, have ordered a winch bumper from China and some different tyres that are slightly taller (120mm) and I hope will fill the arches a bit better.

 

Need to finish my 3D printed trailer as well, I have the original HoBao wheels but no tyres so once new tyres arrive and they go onto the beadlockers I can use the original tyres for the trailer.

 

still need to improve the steering, I am hoping a metal steering arm might take out some of the play, also on way from the Far East…

[WL Toys Owners Thread]

Don’t have mine yet but lots of reviews mention 3s is fine on the esc, which I believe is identical between v1 and v2? 
 

I was thinking that 2S might be fast enough for fun running though… I didn’t order any extra battery’s yet waiting to see what it’s like on 2S.

[WL Toys Owners Thread]

What batteries is everyone running in these?

 

I am have just made an impulse purchase of a 124017... I was looking at a HBX 16889A Pro to go with the FTX Tracer the kids already have but they seem to be quite expensive at the moment and the '017 was a lot of car for not a lot of money!

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

5 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

Disconnect the steering linkage from the horn and check the srvo centres ok , if it does check for binding in the steering 

I did that, but it looks a bit like the left wheel is not dead parallel, the tyres are a bit “wobbly” so it’s hard to see 100%.

 

It’s quite an angle for the steering link, can’t help wondering if the axle mount makes the servo more efficient.

 

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

1 hour ago, Jack Reacher said:

That looks really well mate nice colour 

Thanks, I think the combination of colours has potential to look fantastic - just needed more trans red! Where it’s gone on heavier on the bonnet and the side ridges on the doors it’s a real cherry red. Oh well next time!

was aiming for this:

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/97235-custom-colour-thread/&do=findComment&comment=842357

Found some other shells in this combo as well but can’t find the links right now.

 

 

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

15 minutes ago, Stormbringer said:

Check the srvo arm is mounted straight 

thanks will do.

 

servo (25kg Chinese job) came with a nice alloy arm, but it has a protruding part on the rear that fouls the chassis so I used the kit plastic one and I can see some flex in it as well.

 

steering right Center’s back nicely. Steering left does not centre fully, it’s still slightly left - something not quite right.

 

need to dial the brake back even further, already programmed it much less than default but it still stands on its nose if you let off the throttle!

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Ok made it all fit after some cable management, still can’t find rubber grommet for the receiver box!

 

Here it is, first shell painted in about 20 years - didn’t quite come out as planned. It’s Tamiya ps37 trans red backed with ps-48 metallic silver then black. I made mistake of not laying down enough trans red - probably needed the whole can in hindsight and it was hard to tell how red was red enough!

 

Apart from the silvery red sparking from too much silver coming through quite pleased with the rest. Watched a hemistorm video on YouTube and cut the overspray mask on the outside for the window rubbers then sprayed them black on the outside so they appear more Matt. I did the door shuts and panel joins with 0.7 micron kyusho tape. Looks good so far but will see if over time it peels away.

 

Lights spliced to a single JST on the body that’s into the receiver, tested the winch controller and it’s quite clever - too clever. It changes direction each time so would work with a button but I wanted to use it with a toggle switch on the transmitter. Also not quite sure if I will drill it into the kit bumper as the holes line up with the bumper mounts,  or get another bumper with winch mount.

 

just need to work out now why it steers better right than left!

 

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Which way round does everyone have their ESC?

 

I put mine in the middle like the manual, same way as everclear has in his build thread, but I am finding that the interior is fouling the wires out of the ESC making it hard to get the front of the body to sit cleanly on the pins?
 

Also having a panic I can’t seem to find the rubber grommet that seals he RX box where the servo wires exit! 😯

 

RX didn’t fit so I had the lid off for the test drive, but I am certain I took it off before the test drive, have modded the receiver antenna grommits now so it fits.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Yeah that’s what I figured, need to trim my tape on that shutline now to see the dimples.

 

Getting there, just need to sort the led wiring and work out how best to mount winch on stock bumper for now

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

If there’s an award for slowest DC1 build I am going to claim it soon!

 

Was waiting for a dry sunny day… decided they had all gone this year and painted the shell last week anyway despite the high humidity. Paintwork didn’t quite come out as I hoped - first shell in about 20 years - I know where it went wrong but it’s ok  not a total disaster just not what I hoped -  will post a pic when the sun comes out to get good one.

 

Finally fitted all the shell hardware today, right up until the interior and realised I don’t seem to have holes in the body for the front wipers? (That also secure the interior).

 

Looking back through the thread, I see @everclear1984and m33bhardwaj dont have front wipers, yet they have an interior fixed to the body shell? 
 

Everyone else does seem to have front wipers, I know the seats I have are two parts like @MrPeaskinot the racing bucket style in the manual or some peoples pics, I had assumed my shell is just missing the two holes but now I am slightly perplexed by some DC1 not having front wipers?

 

Am I missing some big secret, or just 2 holes in Lexan?

 

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

46 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:

I’m guessing you mean £400, but bare in mind I’m looking at the kit, so still need to add paint and electronics - but still saving £130 off rrp

 

I meant £40 more - correct it above - kit was £240

 

44 minutes ago, walkbythesea said:

What is the wheelbase?  Not listed on modelsport. 
 

Is it a standard 313mm?

 

I believe its 313mm yes, so lots of bodies can fit.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

The body is a bit marmite, and angle dependant, not as good looking as the hundreds of thousands of defenders you see!

 

£199 is a bargain, think I paid £40 more earlier in the year.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

That looks good no big bar up and over, out of stock but must be from “the usual places” in the Far East will dig around a bit.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Who's running a aftermarket winch bumper? (says the man with the still unpainted body 🙃)

 

I am not a fan of the original bumper chunky look, and will need to drill it to fit the winch I already bought, underneath does not look good wih the bumper structure and where the holes are needed and I am debating getting something else designed for winch to just bolt it all on and have a stronger mounting.

 

Something like this that is not too aggresive rock crawler or clearly for a Defender...

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

15 hours ago, MrPeaski said:

I had a strange motor running issue that I forgot to document at the time. Like yours it seemed to drive faster going backwards!

I found out by strapping a Garmin wheel hub speed sensor to one of the wheels. Forwards it read something like 35mph (obviously un-calibrated) and in reverse 42mph. I swapped the wires around from the ESC and........ got the same!

What I ended up doing was actually flipping the gear inside the axle pumpkin. The build manual shows the gear on the left, but mine are now on the right.

 

Did the same experiment and forwards is now 42, reverse 35  👍

 

Hmm, I was careful to assemble the axles as shown in the diagrams, I swapped the motor wires around (I definetly had + on ESC to - on motor) and its much better now, ESC limits reverse % of full throttle I think anyway.

 

Had to trun the brake down, with no body it was standing on its nose when stopping.

 

Might still just get bigger waterproof box, I have a few laying around from other projects, and be done with it, not startd with lights but I am sure that is a lot of wires - part of my desire to keep the telemetry was I was going to do the same as you and take a live feed for headlights and tail lights and just T the monitoring lead with a JSC plug or whatever they are called.

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

16 minutes ago, MrPeaski said:

@whitecitadel

 

I had the same problem with my receiver.

You can carefully pry open the case as its not glued or screwed together and take out the aerial grommets and cut them down by half as they're only a firm rubber.

May also have rotated the receiver to fit in on one long edge.

The hardest part for me was fitting the sealing grommet around the servo wires, especially due to the extras for lights and telemetry (which I discarded in the end).

Smearing some shock oil on the grommet made things a bit easier.

 

Think my steering servo is set around 60%, but using a longer than stock servo arm

 

Thanks, I have the 6 channel might try that, but I already programmed it mostly with the 7. I also considered just using a larger watertight box on the side panels, I have winch controller to fit and a lighting controller I hope (need to ebay one of those soon).

 

I have the telemetry connected for now, but given the size of the battery and the undemanding requirement not sure its needed - geek factor 11/10 though to have pack voltage on the TX 😁

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

On 19/03/2021 at 12:33, MrPeaski said:

@Logie I have the kit version with a Hobbywing 1080 ESC (think the RTR is a Hobbbywing 1060). When set up with + on the ESC to + on the motor, and - on the ESC to - on the motor it was faster backwards which isn't right.

I've swapped them around and it is running correct which is faster forwards. I have no idea why the supposed 'correct' wiring' is like this.

@everclear1984 and @Stormbringer have the same setup and theirs are the same. It ends up being Blue ESC wire to Red motor wire, Yellow ESC wire to Black motorr wire

Although looking at the RTR pics the motor wires are blue/yellow too! you can just switch them over on the motor

 

I too have a 5500mah 2s battery, but I'm testing suspension adjustments as it did seem overdamped from stock when building up. See my post on page 8 for my comments (11 March)

 

 

So Blue is postiive and yellow is negative - now re-wired, my wiring OCD is offended but it is fucntional now 😁

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

Ok, threw the wheels on lunchtime as getting impatient... and immediately remembered all the reverse gearing comments in the build threads 🤦‍♂️

 

Looks like motor is running backwards, I did multimeter it before soldering so forwards is forwards but no obvious markings on the motor and ESC says just to connect any two wires. Clearly its much faster backwards than forwards, so I need to reverse +/- VE on the motor. If I move the positive to the motor terminal with the red dot next too it, like positive is red almost... that should fix it. Then reverse the channel on the RC so that forwards is forwards again.

 

I had this feeling when I was sodlering up the motor I was missing something... that would be it then...

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

My experimentation was with the wheels off on the bench, that might be why it only looked like a few % - will limit it and see what it looks like with the wheels on 👍

[Hobao DC1 Owners]

3 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

 

Glad to see it coming along 👍 I would limit the steering ever so slightly. As you said, you risk snapping a drive pin if you don't.

Thanks, it seems to bind right at the end of travel tiny bit, I think the controller has limits in the menu if I can find them, will dial it back to 95% or something and see how it turns.

 

Worlds slowest build continues… I did put aside a nice large cardboard box for spray booth to protect the garage floor yesterday… getting there!