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Posts posted by Ant.p
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Hi David,
Sorry to hear about the recent loss of your wife.
I sometimes head over to Galleywood. You can park at either St. Michael’s church or the Horse and Groom.
there is a woodland in between those two locations, not huge in size, but is quite a good location for both bashing and crawling.
Access from both ‘car parks’ is fairly good, but probably easier from the church as flatter ground.
I’m in the middle of moving house at the moment, but once settled in, I’d be up for meeting with you.
If you want to travel a bit, and are looking for a busier place, Arc Raceway has crawler tracks and friendly staff. Always a few people there to keep you company!
Ant
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Clever stuff! Are there various software programs, or is the one you use the ‘go to’?
ive been considering this for a while, and I have enough reasons to get a 3D printer. Will get myself one from Santa maybe 🤭
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If you can find one second hand or stretch the budget, the Associated Rival MT10 is known as one of the toughest 10th scale rc’s
Anything around your budget will be at the cheaper end of the market unfortunately, and likely be weaker than some of the more premium brands/models.
Personally, I would try to avoid anything that hasn’t got spares readily available from your local (same country) hobby shops. Otherwise you could end up waiting a while to repair any damages.
link below for MT10:
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Waiting for a weight 😆 hopefully won’t be long. I wanna see the results!
How do you go about designing your hangers? Do you design from scratch, or download from internet? It’s only that I keep toying with the idea of a 3D printer; your examples of what’s possible above is a massive selling point. There is a bit though… I’m not very wizzy on the computer, so wondering how technical creating is.
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This is awesome! How is it that a ‘top of the range’ comp crawler requires all these mods?! You’d think the design team would have got it right for the price tag.
luckily one man, his 3D printer and a little CF sheet can put it right. Looking forward to seeing more. Good work 👍🏻
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1 hour ago, martin34 said:
Is 50/18 the stock gearing?The wide hexes was a bit of an inpolse buy but I won't be putting it straight on.I will probably get a set of outcast 8s tyres for it in the future and will more than likely fit the wide kit then.
Get a Kraton 8s as well. Problem solved 😁
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I’ll take it please
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2 hours ago, .AJ. said:
Sorry boss. Was less discussion, more defending myself though. I won’t do it again; promise! So long as no one else annoys me, that is 😇
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On 05/09/2022 at 20:53, m4inbrain said:
You're quite the minority then. The vast majority of owners run Max6' just fine. Including me. If you add plenty of stupid stuff like metal bits and proline wheels, it might become a problem - a stock X-Maxx runs perfectly fine all day long with just a Max6, even geared up. I know, because i do. My guess would be a naff ESC, or not factory weight.
A Max5 doesn't fit without major surgery/new parts, and is mounted considerably higher than a Max6 too, making it more top heavy and handle even worse.
Mine's geared 20/46, as are loads of others on Max6s. I have never had the ESC cut out. Not once.
edit:
I've got the moment mine went poof on video, after three months of ownership. I'm pretty sure they still go pop.
edit2: bit anticlimactic, i know - but that was the end of the VXL - just turned off with a "click" noise, after that it turned on but didn't work anymore, couldn't even turn it off anymore without disconnecting the batteries.
I didn’t want to bite, but can’t resist….
FYI I have an almost entirely stock Xmaxx other than upgraded esc, servo, wheels and gearing.
there are some other ‘improvements’ like bolts to replace the hinge pins and rpm hubs with larger inner bearings.
I service the truck on a regular basis, and all is running freely as it should.
wheels are Louise x pioneer and are very similar weight to stock but last way longer. I had several tyres tear (not using self right) but since changing haven’t had any issues with Louise, they’re also cheaper than stock.
to counter your argument, I’m not lying. What I said are facts, like it or lump it. I didn’t want to spend more on a bigger esc (btw max6 works without fault in my Mojave) but in the Xmaxx , it was not up to the job. I have 22/46 gearing and it now runs like a dream with leg room on the max5, which needed a £10 mount from eBay with no other mods at all - major surgery?! 😂
Don’t make out you know it all and argue against what I know. Maybe you don’t drive yours hard enough? Maybe you think you’re an Xmaxx expert?
I like this forum, shame some can’t see past their own egos. This is a hobby, meant to be fun, and this a place to share ideas and support one another, right?
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4 hours ago, Tadas said:
How is stock servo fine?! Try turning wheels in grass 😄 How is 2085X garbage?! Using it - loving it!
P.S. SS bottom plates (just front and back) would say are a must - saves a lot of money!
I second that. Even if it’s only a little stronger; the x combined with the stiffer spring for the servo saver transforms the truck and is adequate unlike the stock one.
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1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:
Max6 is definitely a must
I went down this route, stock motor and new esc. Although it was an improvement, I had issues with heat and the esc would cut out if using on a warm day and driven hard.If you can stretch to it, the max5 is a better choice. Mines an absolute beast now! Has leg room vs the max6 that has to work flat out to cope.
Tbf if it was geared down, would have probably been fine, but I like the speed. Once you’ve had a taste of a huge jump, anything less is a bit underwhelming.
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I don’t think that’s it, no. Removing the yellow tape will reveal all.
here’s a handy video showing all in more detail I stumbled across on YouTube a while back:
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Should be one black wire attached to each cell. If you dig a little deeper, you’ll hopefully see a tab to solder to.
looks to be the cell on the left in the photo above. You’re so close now 👍🏻
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2 hours ago, Spunkymunky88 said:
If i tear back the plastic on this lipo will it be ok to just tape back up
What Bert said 😁
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If you don’t already have one, get a soldering iron. They’re relatively cheap, then get some decent solder (pref with lead) and practice repairing on any spare wire you may have kicking around your place.
there are lots of videos on YouTube to explain in more detail.
soldering is a big part of Rc maintenance, so may as well give it a try 👍🏻
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On 26/08/2022 at 17:37, Tadas said:
Any ideas what's the difference between 7750 and 7750X? And how do I know which one I got as a stock? Looking for an upgrade at the moment.
I believe 7750x is the stronger 8s driveshaft, replacing 7750 that was probably on the 6s models?
if you have these parts, you have the ‘X’ version
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Welcome back. I’m not a million miles from Cambridge. If you ever head out Braintree or Chelmsford direction and fancy some company, I’d be up for it 👍🏻
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Hardest (still relatively simple) thing to get to is the middle diff. There is no quick way in, but it’s not too bad. Serviced the diff recently with replacement 20million traxxas oil and had it all completed in about an hour and a half.
Even had time to clean all the removed plastic parts in the bath and clean the bath after, before I was found out!
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20 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:
The one thing slightly confusing, replacing the servo seemed like a major operation? I've never even noticed that i couldn't see the servo until today lol. It's under the receiver tray, is it?
It’s surprisingly simple!- 1
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15 hours ago, m4inbrain said:
I’ve used Ali X loads and never had any issues. I have once been asked if I’d like to pay more for faster shipping, but it wasn’t a demand. Like you, I wonder if the tax actually goes where it should, but i haven’t ever been asked to pay extra on delivery so assume all is kosher 😬- 1
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Welcome to MSUK!
what part of Norfolk? I live near Sudbury in Suffolk.
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Welcome to MSUK!
FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Posted
It’s best to leave open, as any debris laying in the chassis whilst in use may chew the gear up.
A simple mod would be to secure a piece of thin stainless sheet, using the 4 closest screws surrounding the spur.