Vandriver007

Excellent super fast help as usual guys, thanks a lot.

Hi everyone, Just a quick question today. Basically will my bullet nitro 2.4ghz controller interfere with my 7 year olds new Maverick ION 2.4ghz controller if we are out at the same time? If so how do I stop any interference please? Nowhere in the manual does it mention this and the electrics side of rc scares me lol Thanks

Thanks so much for tracking that post down for me, its full of great info and places to look for parts! I will get on that tomorrow and start upgrading 🙂

Hi everyone, I've bought a Maverick ION (mine is the MT) for my 7 year old to play around with and have heard they are very prone to breaking things due to the way kids are going to use them! I know I can get plenty of plastic spares from Modelsport or Wheelspin etc but I'm after metal versions of parts. I know they seel the main bits of those too but for huge prices. I see on a quick search people on here have upgraded there's to some metal parts but the latest post I can find is still 4 years ago and I can't seem to find anywhere online that sells upgrades that are not the official expensive versions yet people on here were posting pics of there model with parts from China etc and far cheaper. Do any of you know company's online that sell upgrades for these models that are trustworthy? And I have heard the reason I may not be finding them is because outside of Europe Maverick models are not called Maverick but something else, perhaps Himoto if I have that right? Is it because I'm searching for the wrong name on Google and rc parts companys etc? Does anyone here have any experience with these models and can help me find what I'm looking for? Thanks for any help.

Great! I've just sent you a PM. Also does this part need threadlocking when screwing back down onto the thin brake bar? Because that's what I've been doing the last few times I've taken it on and off and I think that's what my problem is now, there is so much old hard threadlock in the groves the screw won't go in fully anymore or if it does it goes in slightly off centre and again won't go down far enough to grip the bar underneath.

Hi guys, Just been making some adjustments as best I can to the awful stock servos for the brakes on my HPI Bullet MT (until I can buy more powerful ones) and I think I've gone and threaded this part I need help knowing the name of please. If you don't recognise it immediatly it uses a 1mm set screw with the Allen fitting to tighten it down, and sits at the end of the thin black metal rod with the rubber grommet next to it which controls the brake intensity/pressure when the remote control is used to brake. I've tracked the part down from my manual included with the car but it's just called 'support parts' and the same part number is used for about 5other things around that area too. That kit is for sale but contains loads of stuff I don't need, so if these parts are called something specific and I can buy them separately even if they are not HPI parts then that would really help me. P. S. The absolutly tiny black set screw used to tighten this down uses the 1mm allen key head which came with the car but its a nightmare to try and use the thin also tiny Allen key they give you to fit. Does anyone know a good place I can buy an affordable 1mm allen key driver/hex driver? All I can find is a set again for £25 including ones I really don't need. Thanks for the help everyone.

I did take a picture of each plug in the ignitor to try and show the difference but the camera just can't pick up the difference in brightness, they all basically just look really nice and bright and would make you think I was mad. Looking at them in person with the eye you can clearly see a difference though. I bought them from Modelsport UK though so I'm sure they are fine and we're in original packaging. For now your right I'm just going to stick with the R5 as it works fine. I can see now why my mechanic brother says the best thing to ever happen to cars was electronic ignition systems and that you should expect to lose some hair along the way with anything using a carb! By the way I've just read that in the EU since we left they have just banned 20+25% nitro sales to anyone without a licence. And that most model shops over there don't stock it anymore and the countries themselves won't allow it to be shipped in for anything higher than 16%. Have any of you guys heard about that too, and is there any talk of that happening in the UK too? Because LiPo batteries are bloody expensive!

Hi everyone, just a quick question today. Bassically have I just got really bad luck with my brand new glow plugs or is what's happening normal? My new HPI bullet came with an R5 plug which has been running fine for the break in and up to around 10 tanks now. When checking its glow on the end of my ignitor (which is definatly fully charged always) its perfectly bright and glowing right out of the end to the point it almost hurts to look at, so all good there. Since then I've bought a HPI R3 and a HPI R4 plug both new of course. Taking these out of the packet and testing them just seconds after testing the R5 with the same ignitor they glow maybe half as bright as the R5. Sure the coil is all orange and obviously burning hot but the intensity is just half or less of the R5. The manual the car comes with says this is a problem, that no glow is dead obviously, very bright and intense glow is perfect, and mid range dull glow like the two I have described is signs it's time to change the plug and its on the way out. Plus having started the car now with all of my range of plugs it certainly is easier to start with the R5. Will the difference in heat ranges from r3/4/5 in plugs cause less of a glow the lower the number I go, or does this sound like I've just bought two dud plugs and really bad luck here? Thanks for any help and sorry for such a newbie question but I'm still learning here but loving the hobby. P. S if needs be I can try and figure out how to post pics if needed.

Watching that video brings back such nerve racking memories of when I had that car. The too easy to do blurry doughnuts, the sheer screaming of the engine, the sliping and sliding on anything over half throttle and the terror of watching the car fly past curbs or mud banks knowing its one accidental tap on the steering away from a pile of bits on the grass! Having that car at 15 as a first rc car with no money for spares for the short time I did still makes me feel nervous now. Would do it all again tomorrow if I could though 👌

I've just bought a new HPI Bullet MT 3.0 with the .15 engine. I plan to use it once or twice a week for maybe 45mins a time. I completed the break in as instructed with the stock R5 plug and 25% RTR Opti fuel. Going forward I'm going to be using an R4 medium plug and 25% Opti Race formula with the slightly lower oil content. The car runs fine at the moment and it's tuned lean for the power but is turned a half turn to rich for lubrication safety too. I've already been adding after run oil after each day's usage and will be doing the air filter oil after around every 5 tanks too. So with all that in mind what sort of life span should I expect on average from this engine? How long in actual years worth of usage/how many litres of fuel you think it will get through before problems/death would be a great insight.

Thanks so much for all the great advise guys and I will take it all on board and change a few things based on what you all said tomorrow when I'm next out with it. I didn't know about the oil content in the fuel (I'm using Optimax 25% RTR with the higher oil content I now see) but now I do the smoke makes perfect sense and makes me happier knowing it is lubricating the engine really nicely due to the smoke even though I'm running it pretty lean at the moment. Once this litre runs out I got with the car I've got 2.5lts of Opti 25% Race formula waiting to be used I also bought. Now I know about the oil content though and see this Race mix has less in than the RTR I will make sure to turn it back another quarter or so more to rich just to be sure I'm still lubricating the engine nicely. That will cut the smoke down a bit too. Thanks again.

Thanks for the welcomes guys, I already feel at home with a bunch of like minded people. Your never too old to play with toys more expensive than some people's actual car!

Hi everyone, bassically is my car fine or going to blow up on me! The basics first. Just bought a brand new HPI bullet MT 3.0 from Modelsport UK. Completed engine break in properly with factory carb settings, 2 tanks up on blocks, 1 tank round in slow circles up to half throttle, then another 3 tanks driving around flat car park up to full throttle in short bursts. So 6 tanks run through it now. Using 25% Fuel with an R4 medium glow plug. Outside temp around 6-9.c on all days if that helps. Car fires up after just a few pulls on the starter each time. After air filter oil/after engine run oil from HPI used after 3rd tank applied as per video guides. Idle gap set at between 1-1.5mm as instructed, car does not stall at full brake and idles at rest or brake fine. Tweaked the HSN first on tank 5 and pulls away fast without hesitation to great top speed, no cut out or stall on way to full throttle or at full throttle. HSN currently sat 1/2 turn to rich from a point of being so lean it did cut out at full throttle (so I know now it's at the fastest point it can be for me whilst keeping the engine lubricated just enough I believe?) No fuel leaking out of exhaust when tipping car on its side after shuting the car off. Have not touched the idle or LSN at all yet and car idles while running either stationary on occasion but most of the time with a small 1-2mph forward motion without brake on. All tweaking done once engine was warmed up properly after a few minutes. So all sounds pretty good so far I gather after watching/reading many hours of instruction material for new model owners........however now my smoke issue problem. Why is it bearing in mind the car is not sluggish at all off the mark, getting to full throttle or at full throttle, with a nice and lean HSN setting (as said by the fact its about 1/2 turn toward rich from the stalling point when at full throttle) that I'm still getting what I think is far to much bluish/white smoke on acceleration? I know there is always ment to be some for lubrication which is fine. But mine spews out more in thickness quantity than I have seen on any video of someone driving there's on acceleration by about double I would say. Plus ticking over at idle there is practically no smoke at all, virtually no fuel being spat out the exhaust and also no fuel whatsoever leaking out the exhaust after the car is off and I hold it to the side to drain. How can I still be seeing so much smoke on acceleration with a nice and lean HSN setting, lean enough to not spit fuel out the exhaust at idle or drain out after running, and a car that feels great to drive with no real other issues I can tell of? Does this sound like a genuine problem with the engine, or just a case of the idle and LSN not being adjusted from factory settings yet? So sorry for the long post but hopefully someone who likes reading novels can help me! Daniel

Hi everyone, I'm Daniel. Can you guess I'm new here? 😉 Anyway I wanted to join this forum right with the new introduction first. Bassically at 15 I bought my first Nitro RC car after buying the first magazine I ever saw in a shop on the topic, of which at the time I didn't even know what a Nitro rc car was. The front cover had on it in bold red writing 'Introducing the fastest rc car in the world!' It was the Schumacher Fusion . 21. It arrived a week later to my house. Going from not even knowing nitro cars existed, to barely even getting the thing running with no Internet (in our house) at the time for newbie guides, no understanding of what a carburetor was let along does etc, to obliterating it into a curb at maybe 60+mph took less than a week after that. Having used all my own paper round savings, early birthday money off my mum and grandad and a bit even from a neighbour I promised to let the car be '10%' of, I had none left to even begin thinking about rebuilding it with. Not that the fact I was too young to drive, didn't have access to the Internet, didn't have a modelshop in any city near me and didn't own a single tool myself helped much with the after situation either. So as you can imagine that was the end of that great new Hobby idea of mine with nearly £400 down the drain and family who thought I was genuinly an idiot. Fast forward 20 odd years and I've gone and bought myself another car for round two! It better work out well this time because its not my mum I'm worried about, it's something FAR worse..... the mother of my children who just looks at me with burning eyes everytime I even get it out the box after she found out how much it was 6 months before we are ment to be getting married! Yet if I even dare mention how much her pretty Micheal Kors bag just doing nothing but hanging off her arm was apparently im a hypocrite. £300 is some expensive cows arse skin is all I can say! Hope that works for you guys and girls (surely there must be a few on here in 2021?) as an introduction and I look forward to annoying you with constant carb issue problem questions 😎 Daniel