Cupra 313

I will try the jx you suggested because i was going to order some ball bearings for my tank from banggood either way. I m gonna run it on 6.0v though,too bored to mess with becs etc. I just cut the rear windows,cut below the roof scoop and made holes on the rear wind shield.It doesnt look bad and you cant even see them apart from the windows.I will upload some photos tomorrow

Hm,interesting...I m running 4 jx servos at the moment. 2 in one crawler which have been fine,one in another crawler fine as well and one in my drifter which is cr@p. This one is a little smaller than the one i was thinking: https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/electrics/servos/hitec-d840wp-mega-scale-wp-servo.html?___SID=S Yeap,set the rear toe to 0 degrees also lifted the car and tuned the shocks.It s a little snappy at the moment but i will sort it out eventually .I didnt run it much,the engine overheated because i haven t cut any holes to the body 🤦‍♂️. Sorted that as well

Thanx man! Here s another one with some decals on.I need to find the time to make the martini decals and finish it off. On another note,i need recommendations for a good steering servo and outerwears for the air filter

Getting there....

A year? Man that s insane! I dont have the patience for that. I need to get whatever i have running asap! Either being a 1/1 drifter or an rc model. I have spent countless nights with no sleep at all going straight to work in the morning...Which brings us to yesterday... Had a day off,so i worked on the mcd 16 hours straight...It s almost done and it came out amazing. 1 roll of painters tape,1 roll of 3mm vinyl tape and another one 9mm vinyl tape. Everything is painted, no stickers whatsoever... @Kukynas thanx man for persuading me to paint it 😃

@Kukynas yeap,it s the one we discussed...Right now it s kicking my a$$ in masking I will mount the shocks on the lower mounting positions and go from there.Hopefully it wont rain this weekend and i will be done with my break in

@Kukynas yeah,got it done and i already did 4-5 heat cycles on it...A few hick ups,discovered that both my k power servos are broken,so i put an old 15 years old hitec i found in my stash for now...Also couldn't find a servo horn in my entire country,so i 3d printed one...Surprisingly it held well.I have 4 more until i order a proper one. The car sits way too low,i need to raise it. Also i need to put the 0 toe blocks as it wont see any dirt any time soon. One thing that i found weird is that my shock springs are too short. They are shorter than the threaded length of the shock body.Is that how they come from the factory? Yesterday i started working on the body. I m gonna paint it instead of decals and you re the one to blame for this one Amazing work on your mcd,looks awesome and you re quite handy with the cf. Just dont breathe the shavings and the dust.

Yeap,single servo on this one.Hope to be ready until tomorrow afternoon to start breaking in the engine

Got some work done. Engine exhaust air filter tank fail safe servos

Will do and let you know

First of all,it s not your fault about anything.You kindly shared the information you had and i m thankful for that. Second,dont confuse experience with "database knowledge". I have 22 years of rc experience.Does that automatically grant me the ability to know every single clutch carrier size or know every single car clearances? Most definately not! Experience has nothing to do with this,if it did,i would have already broken in the engine by now. MCD SHOULD list compatibles engines period!MCD should provide all the information a customer needs since he is PAYING to buy their product. Unless losi,hpi,arrma and all the other major manufacturers are stupid. Last but not least,i didnt put any oversized engine anywhere. It s a stock zenoah. It s an off the shelf basic motor that i bought AS A BUNDLE WITH THE CAR. I didnt try to put a malossi or a polini engine in there,nor i tried to put a pocket bike engine. There is absolutely no excuse for all this.Anyway,i ve said enough,i ll hack it up and make it run

I was thinking about the same thing right now and i was going to edit my post...Actually the nose of the brake cam post is just a screw if i remember correctly. Theoriticaly i can use a longer screw and an aluminum spacer. What infuriates me is that there isn t a manual to tell you what to do...I have to guess and try things out and dremel stuff for a car that costs 2k and it was supposed to be ARTR! This is just ridiculous and i m being as polite as i can possibly be right now

I will be upgrading those to hex head asap!Unfortunately i left the disc brake in there,with out the calipers...I believe i cant run the car with the disc dangling over there.As far as the longer brake screws go,what am i doing now?Also i believe there must be a spacer between the calipers and diff mount now,as they will move further out

@Kukynas thanx man for the info once again! By moving the disc brakes to the second position the engine finally went in!!!The mesh is a little tighter than my liking,but beggars can t be choosers!Of course they dont supply the longer bolts,so now i have no rear brakes. Exhaust fitted,air filter fitted,i was planning to change the lines and the filter on the tank,but now i m too tired for that,going back in as is. PS got to love 80-100mm long wood philips head screws🤦‍♂️ @.AJ. yeah apparently it is,and i was about to dremel it back to reality 😅 edit,forgot the photo

That s a nice way to set the mesh until you get to do it!That s what i thought until i got my hands on it! @Kukynas i ve been busting my mind for half an hour on why just the motor mount aligns and the mount with the motor on it wont.Until i found it.The rear disc brake hits the motor and it wont let it sit on the front right mounting plate completely.Unless it s something really simple and i haven t realised because i m a little agitated right now,i m leaning towards to award this car, the prize of the second worst car i own after the 30dnt