hardc0re_tid

Bought everything you see in basket/screenshot above. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Edit. 7.5t motor. Not 8t

Here is the current setup. Some do say the killerbody mounting kit is flimsy. Mine arrived the other day. I cannot say the ones I received are flimsy at all. Seem pretty stiff. I'm pretty happy with the progress so far and the way the body is sitting isn't too bad either. The cheap Chinese rock rails I bought have to go!! I did have a think about going cantilever but I feel that the tyres (given the size) will end up fouling on the body as it will sit lower. I thought about leaf springs too but I'm happy with the heights etc as they are at present. Feedback welcome! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Also forgot to mention I upgraded from the stock Axial AR44 axles to SSD Pro 44's with weights all round. Really make a difference with all the extra low down weight. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

It is indeed a Savox waterproof servo. Savox SW023G. I can't fault it at the moment to be honest. I have since upgraded to a metal servo horn so maybe that will cause it to fail down the line. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

So a little more work done to the SCX. I wasn't feeling the 4Runner so I have went with the KB LC70. Mounting the body to the chassis has been a bit of a task in my opinion due to the height of the rear shock mounts. I have bought the shortened KB mounts and they seem to work out if I move them forward and have the rear shocks angled forward. I have also bought the KB LC70 body mounting brackets but this will make battery changes a task itself. To overcome this I think I will buy the bed mounted battery case. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

GMade piggybacks have arrived. Now to stick the kettle on and get building Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thought I'd share a little side project with you all because every race car needs a trailer . It's not quite finished yet but here's where I am so far. Trailer is made entirely of aluminium and riveted together. Some screws here and there for moveable/removable parts. Still waiting on tow bar to arrive so I can't sort out heights etc. but by the looks of it I will probably change the wheels for something bigger unless I can drop the tow bar lower. Still undecided. Feedback welcome. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thanks, took it out today along the beech and had a great time, only had it out for about 20 minutes but still. Didn't realise crawling was this fun. Cant wait for the new bits to arrive as I found that it is quite eager to topple, maybe I'm expecting too much angle from it.

Freshly painted and stickered. Still need to smoke the windows and do something with the roof. Since I sorted out the alignment issue at the rear the shell is no longer evenly spaced above the rear wheels. Have to drill 2 new holes unfortunately. Oh well. A roof rack can help disguise them. up Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Decided to start a build thread on my SCX10 ii aka Mr Squeakums as named by my 2 year old daughter. Think it's to do with the motor noise at low speeds. Moving on from my issues with the rear alignment I have decided to throw some money towards my rig. At the moment it is bone stock but some new parts will be arriving over the coming weeks. Spec at present is Proline 4Runner shell painted in Humbrol Tank Gray Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 ESC RC4WD 35T Brushed motor Savox waterproof servo Peak power 4200 2S LIPO Futaba R304 receiver (stolen from my XB2 for now) Proline Hyrax with 1.9" Impulse wheels So far today I have bought Front and rear metal bumpers Metal rock rails/side steps Gmade 93mm XD piggyback shocks as the stock Axial ones are poo. Plan to throw some weight down low and add Boom racing axles front and rear. Seen the same used sed set on eBay and the for sale section here but they have since sold [emoji20]

Finally, i have managed to cure the problem, the upper left rear link end was on a tad too loose, tightened it up a full rotation and it pulled the rear end of the chassis over more, still not enough to satisfy me mind you. I then looked at the rear right upper link and decided to loosen the link end one full rotation, this has fixed the problem to where I am happy. Rather than put a washer in place between the link end and the link itself i turned to using a 94mm link on the rear right upper instead of the stated 93mm link. Now I know this is probably not what everyone would do but it has fixed my issue and I am happier now that the rear end is centrally placed over the diff.... now just need to place a washer between the shocks and shock towers to create clearance to stop them fouling on eachother and attend to the suspension itself, the axial shocks suck! Leaking already! Any recommendations Proline Powerstroke, Traxxas Big Bores, Boom Racing Type G's?

Rear links Front Links

OK, so from the images above. Total width of the rear to the outside edges of the aluminium plates measures at 19.5cm. In this scenario the centre line will be 9.75cm. As you can see the centre of the axle above the diff comes in pretty much bang on 9.75cm. The chassis however doesnt. It would appear that the upper/chassis is "twisted" or out of line. Things to note, the aluminium plates are at complete right angles as can be seen below. Measurements from the outside edge of the chassis rails to the inside edge of the plates on the LHS is 56/57mm and on the RHS is 62/63mm