Jump to content

Kukynas

Members
  • Posts

    891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by Kukynas

  1. first batch and must say that these roll smoother than standard chrome steel but other than that they are average, measure the same and wobble the same, for the price don't think so... neeeeext!!!
  2. btw. do not buy front drive shafts part number OP-0079 as potential upgrade, these are already part of the kit ? , on the other hand if you bend them you need to buy upgraded shafts OP-0079 not the (previous) original #92003 as mentioned in the actual parts list as these are 2mm shorter btw. 2 , if anybody know about any other CVA dogbone 149-150mm (edge to edge) long post them here
  3. ST Pro towers each for ~25£ through Modelsport UK, #86201 and 86212 well said, there's no perfect car, each has some flaws... I had zero troubles with spare/upgrade parts and I bought a lot of them from Modelsport and Hobao Taiwan, if they had issues with supply in the past now it seems they've been able to resolve it so I wouldn't be worried
  4. I'm not sure if the shafts are thicker then previous version but these are 4.5mm in diameter arms are much stronger than previous version, they still flex a bit similar way to the ST pro so not sure why they would snap? any link to that info? congrats ? I didn't get into this one yet so one of my future plans to look at, front or rear or both? rear from ST pro should fit without any adjustments, front may need some tweaking you can take entire front and rear suspension unit (gearbox with arms and shock towers) and mount it on the SSTe (4 screws from the bottom) , the only part which may require drilling new holes is servo safer and front chassis stiffener (on the other side of center front shaft) , of course arms are shorter so it would be bit narrower, was thinking about it myself at the beginning ?
  5. Hey guys, didn't know if to create new thread or hack someone's else existing SSTE thread so if mods decide to glue it with other thread I'm perfectly fine here I'd like to share experience with Hobao SSTe (latest revision) rolling chassis and mods applied with list of parts used, this should be applicable to RTR as well but first of all some intro... After weeks spent on forums and youtube reading and looking at user experience with RTR 1:8 scale versions of currently available truggies I found that all of them have some flaws, smaller or bigger but always something, combined with compromised electronics (usually cheap servos and radios) I decided to go ARR kit so that I can build it my way with my parts... Went through internet and looked at several kits from Tekno, Mugen, X-ray, Serpent, Losi, Hobbyking and Hobao, nearly bought BSR Berserker (Hobbyking) for 200 EUR as price/performance ratio looked perfect but than I came across their forum and revealed that most of the critical spare parts are always on backorder and waiting for months to get them is nothing unusual, secondly several people were complaining about steering issues so decided to look elsewhere. Next in price range tree was Hobao Hyper SSTe, checked forums and YT videos for user experience and found that most of them are pretty negative, below video sums up why Wasn't happy at all especially considering all the other brands costing double or triple (600-800 EUR) I had to do deeper search of what's going on, why 10 years old PRO version was so good and still capable of keep up with best on the market and electric version so bad, looking at their actual manual and part list suggested that in 2017 Hobao made significant upgrade and most of above mentioned supposed to be fixed with latest revision, unfortunately (not sure if caused by bad reputation) I couldn't found enough reviews of their latest ARR model but according to review from Vas of the RTR version (over here) I took a risk and ordered it to find out myself, for 260 EUR delivered I knew I can fix remaining issues with either upgraded parts Hobao selling separately or from third party providers or other brands as many of them sharing similar concept and dimensions of their parts... so below some pictures, as you can see lower arms are beefier with more robust construction and nearly no flex (similar to the old PRO version) , looks like beefier front drive shafts so hopefully less prone to bending and few bits and pieces, it looks like Hobao listened to user complains and addressed most of the problems, is it perfect? nope, but I didn't expect I will get Tekno quality for 260 EUR, instead solid base for further improvements... with spare parts usually available either from local dealers or directly from Hobao (I tried both and it worked well with lead time between 3 to 5 days) In order of importance here are my suggested mods/hop-ups (I plan to do) : 1. First of all shock springs, as mentioned in other thread these needs to be changed for something harder, BSR Berserker or Hobao MT springs works fine 2. Next is shimming, as mentioned in first video above there are places where shimming is necessary, C-hubs, steering knuckles, servo saver, back shocks touching the lower arms, wheel hubs touching knuckles and finally all 3 diffs (as pointed out by Vas as well) 3. Aluminium chassis stiffeners, there is still some slight flexing from back part of the chassis which could cause center rear shaft to bend (in case of hard bashing) 4. shock and diff oil, here we have basic set up with pretty low viscosity like in many RTR versions so change of the oil with higher viscosity is more than welcome 5. wheels, seems to be improved version but I will use aftermarket anyway 6. camber and toe adjustment, as Vas said this needs to be done but I take it as standard in case of kit or ARR so no issue for me 7. Pro aluminium shock towers, to prevent bending 8. Aluminium C-Hubs, to improve strength of the arms 9. Universal center drive shaft set 10. Rear CVD shafts 11. Pro spider diffs + shimming, if you plan to use/run higher power/torque set, in my case between 3.5 - 4.2Kwatts 12. New battery tray (requires drilling new holes) 13. will follow hop-up parts list: 1. Hobbyking 9655000108-0, 9655000105-0, or 9655000109-0 and 9655000195-0 , Hobao 94073 2. Nylon washers for chassis parts, from china here 2. Shims from Modelsport, for wheel hubs ANSSM0812-0102, for diffs 86972 and CR442, for diff bearing ANSSM0812-0102, for servo safer CR449 3. Hobao OP-0050 4. up to individuals, I will use front shocks 550-600cst, back shocks 650-1000cst, front/center/rear diff 75K/100K/30K cst 5. BS502-001 for start 7. Hobao 86201+86202 and 86212 8. Hobao OP-0120 and 89147 9. Hobao OP-0030 10. Hobao OP-0059 11. Hobao 87343 and 87344 + CR457 12. Losi LOSA4461 General part list: 1. ECS - Hobbywing EZRUN Max8 V3 150A 2. Servo - JX CLS5830HV 3. Motor - X-TEAM XTI-40 4-Poles Inrunner 2000KV and SSS 4092 / 2140KV additional cost for first 2 critical items is between 25-45 EUR depends on what you buy (+ your time) , third one alone cost 50 EUR, cost of oil vary per brand but I assume most of us have those types anyway none of above is required to get us use it as is but I highly recommend it from longer reliability perspective
  6. simple translation of above for those buying oil in CST unit of measure Starting diffs setup for buggy: Front: 50 000 CST Center: 70 000 CST Rear: 30 000 CST Starting diffs setup for truggy: Front: 70 000 CST Center: 100 000 CST Rear: 30 000 CST
  7. not surprised, most of them aiming for higher profit so squeezing every penny out of the parts is nothing new...
  8. definitely, I believe there's more to quality of bearing than just precision, material used should be as important as everything else in terms of abuse I think these bearings can withstand more and when combined with high quality material such as higher grade chromium or Silicon Nitrid (ceramic) we should see higher wear resistance couple more links to shops selling rc car size bearings https://www.kugellager-express.de/all-deep-groove-ball-bearings__5_5__8_1__16_9 https://www.bearings-online.co.uk/item/3008/EEC/688-2RS-Ceramic-Hybrid-Ball-Bearing-8x16x4.html https://www.fasteddybearings.com/ https://www.acerracing.com/Ball_Bearings-1-1.html https://www.avidrc.com/search/?s=688&x=0&y=0 https://trbrc.com/apps/omega-search/?q=688#q=688 I will try some of them and report back
  9. hopefully I'm not starting new thread (couldn't found any) about something discussed to dead previously so if yes I'd like to kindly ask mods to combine this one with original thread... so in this thread I'd like to discuss bearings options and quality in general, your thoughts and experience with different brands/providers etc. in short I found this topic pretty comprehensive but at the same time bit overlooked, most probably many (including myself at the beginning) seems to be OK with stock bearings or with cheap aftermarket alternatives without paying attention what we are getting for our money, here is my experience and not necessarily perfect one or applicable to you... I started to be little suspicious about quality of aftermarket offerings when I ordered bearing set for my Hobao SSTE rolling chassis couple of weeks back, finally got it this week and was bit surprise what I got, took my electronic caliper and found they measure the same, wobble the same and looks the same so to me they look the same grade as indicated by ABEC scale https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale , either I got same bearings provided by same manufacturer (also same marking) or I was too lucky to get similar bearing from different sources (I doubt it), now should I be concerned? I think yes, but not because of same source but quality of source which is partially indicated by purchase price. Lets take typical example, 8x16x5mm rubber sealed bearing used in every 1/10 and 1/8 scale car is also one of the common bearing size used in bicycle and skateboard business and there's lot of grades and prices of said bearing, to give you some perspective standard price for aftermarket bearing for RC car in this size is ~1 EUR/pound , look at here how much could such bearing cost normally https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/products_listing.php?dd_data={"1"%3A"0"%2C"2"%3A"0"%2C"22"%3A"OG1t"%2C"23"%3A"MTZtbQ%3D%3D"%2C"24"%3A"NW1t"%2C"30"%3A"0"%2C"31"%3A"0"%2C"32"%3A"undefined"%2C"33"%3A"undefined"%2C"36"%3A"undefined"}&cPath=3_11&_=1548954605250&&page=1 or here just scroll down to "more products" https://www.bike24.com/p2177162.html?q=8x16x5 or https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=223340;menu=1000,4,326;page=24 and many other shops on the net our standard bearing is chromium steel marked 688RS or 688-2RS most probably with ABEC 1 precision, considering price of it I would identify it as low cost economy quality as you can see ABEC 3, 5, 7 or 9 will set you back by 5-50x more, is it worth it? depends on your budget but I think our standard aftermarket upgrade isn't coz I believe we're paying more money and hassle to replace it for same/similar quality, we might not find every size for our car with higher grade or so many offerings (could found only 1 or two 10x16x5 for my diffs) but in such case I would rather keep original one till it dies and than replace btw, ceramic doesn't automatically means better than chromium steel, tolerances are sometimes more important is seems... your thoughts?
  10. current hyper SSTe (not sure if previous versions were the same) has unusual big shocks for this category so it's hard to source similar parts from different sources especially when none of the competitors providing dimensions but there is few of them which do such as Hobbyking so... front shocks are 120mm long 19mm wide (outer diameter of the shock body), back shocks are 139mm and 19mm, from this simple measurements we can see that even front shocks are in unusual length as many other brands mounting such long shocks in this category on their back arms, due to fact Hobao using only 65mm long springs for fronts the suspension and overall set up is weak since the beginning, to provide balance suspension characteristics for front we need 80mm long spring and for back 90-95, unfortunately I couldn't find any 90mm long with 24mm outer diameter so for now the only option is pre-load which gives us missing 10mm what I did is I mounted original gray springs from the back on the front and Hobbyking hard (red) spring on the back with full pre-load, now it seems to be ok with both sides, I got another combo ready to be tested so if you don't like this one you can try Hobao springs from their MT range, they fit perfectly as well links: https://hobbyking.com/cz_cz/rear-spring-1-5-6-5-80-hard.html https://hobbyking.com/cz_cz/rear-spring-1-5-7-5-80-medium.html http://eshop.hobao-racing.com/products/productdetail/94073+MT++PLUS++SHOCK+SPRING+-+HARD/part_number=94073/16015.0.1.1.0.0.0.0.0? any questions let me know btw, here's mine rolling chassis ready to be upgrade and finished , for 230 pounds delivered absolute no brainer ?
×
×
  • Create New...