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simonlpearce

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  • RC Cars
    BSD Racing Nitro Buggy
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  1. Ahh don't say that, will have to do some testing see what's what. I guess first place to look would be batteries.
  2. You sir are a legend and a credit to the forum. Just tried this and it seems there is a built in failsafe and it was indeed set to full throttle , it is now re-set to hit brakes instead. Now i just need to figure out why it went out of range in the first place, as it was a fresh set of batteries in transmitter and car/receiver...
  3. Yes that flysky unit is identical. I have just read their manual start to finish and couldn't see anything in there regarding failsafe. I think i will just replace the batteries i both transmitter and receiver and go test it to see whats going on.
  4. Will take a look at the servo and the controller and see how its set, thanks.
  5. Sorry i should be more clear. The car defaults to wide open throttle, without the failsafe installed. For my sins its the stock BSD Racing TX/RX that came with the car. Its my first ever RC car since about the age of 5 so as you can guess i am learning always, lol. I can't see anywhere in the instructions that it has built in failsafe. It just seems to default to that position for some reason. Wonder if i have the steering switched the wrong way or something daft, would reversing the steering cause it to fail shut? Might have a look at that...
  6. Thanks for quick reply, im fairly certain that's what i have been doing, but will take another look. Is there a recommended failsafe perhaps that may be better than the one i am using? Just seen this, which could be worth looking into...
  7. So i had my first experience of a runaway car recently. Not sure how or why yet, possibly batteries low, but the car went out of range of the controller (which is weird as it was well within ranges i have been before), and didn't stop until it bed itself in a deep bush on full throttle. Now for some idiot reason which i am yet to figure out, the car jams on full throttle when it loses signal, so i decided its probably wise to order a failsafe. I got one from BSP and tried to install it following the below youtube guide. My failsafe is identical to the one in this video. However the video states that when you put power to the failsfe it should have 2 lights. Mine only has one, and when i press the button another light flashes. However when i turn off the transmitter it goes back to full throttle mode and not brakes applied as it was supposed to be set for. Can anyone tell me where i am going wrong? Or is my failsafe a dud?
  8. I found i had a wobbling wheel just last night, but mine was coming from the axle/chassis rather than the wheel itself. Turned out one of the adjustable control arms was working its way out, just needed tightening slightly.
  9. Thanks again for the guidance. Im going to assume we don't threadlock servo screws, since we may want to change these often.
  10. I think i figured out the engine locking. Took it off and re-seated everything and its fine now, so fairly sure it was just the one way bearing not seating correctly. Will not go too crazy on the starter in the hope it wont rattle itself loose, lol.
  11. Is red just overkill then? Blue a little more forgiving?
  12. Ok so next newb question. When I purchased my car it was a bit of a project. It was sold as needing a new starter. I also learnt it was missing the thrust shaft, so ordered that too. Question I have though is regarding torque setting/tightness of screws for oath backing plate and starter itself. When tightening the backing plate it seems to lock the engine, unless I back off a little. Am I just being a little ham fisted and overtightening the screws? Or should they go in in a particular order? Similarly with the starter. If I nip that up too much, it will pull out ok, but won't retract. Same question as above. Thanks in advance.
  13. Cheers pal, figured that would be the case, I guess it's common sense really.
  14. Is there a guide anywhere as to which screws should be loctited/threadlocked? I am guessing anything metal to metal, as opposed to metal screws into plastic? Sorry if obvious question.
  15. Thanks for the warm welcomes. For the most part i think its is fairly common sense. No special tools are needed and you can more or less figure out what does what by pulling it apart, just need to remember which order it goes back together in, lol. I don't intend to race, so will likely be messing around mostly in fields/open areas and car parks. So will try to stay away from most immovable objects in the hope im not spending too much time waiting for parts.
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