spents

same as above mate, or, the same as I advised at 5pm Saturday in the first thread you started about this, i'm beginning to wonder if all my content is blocked for any other member to see cos no one seems to take a blind bit of notice what advice I offer on here any more ,

post a pic up mate, then we can see what the issue is , but from what you say above, all you need to do is slide the exhaust side over the manifold side with the hose and clips over the top, what I mean is the manifold slots inside the exhaust mate,

it was fims that posted the pictures mate, and i'm not sure how available those are anymore, but there all nitro 4strokes and not petrol , and if you look at the pics , they all have either two or three speed gearboxes on em as well,

to be honest mate your opening up a big can of worms for yourself, I've thought about a 4stroke conversion for large scale a few times over the years (I've been into rc for over 30 years) and I've always ending up shelving the idea, theres too many issues with running a 4 stroke to overcome, if you have bottomless pockets then its fine, and will be a long term project, but some of the things to overcome are, 1, finding a 4stroke that will physically fit where you want it, 2, that engine needs to be capable of being converted to run with a clutch on it, and if your using an aircraft engine, then that's an issue, 3,if you use a water jacketed 4stroke, then you also need a radiator/fan/ water pump and external controller/power source to run the pump, 4, all this adds weight, so then your stuck with upgrading shocks and springs to support the extra weight, and also if the weight goes up, you will probably need a stronger steering servo saver and much stronger steering servo setup, 5, the gearing, this gonna be a big issue, most rc sized 4strokes will only rev to around 10k max, 2stroke petrol upto 20k, nitro 20k plus, so you will have to either mix n match some sort of gearing or get custom made parts, which again will increase costs, also if you say double or triple the gearing, then you will need an engine with enough power and torque to turn the new taller gearing as well, 6, exhaust, that's gonna have to be a custom made thing as well, 7, how are ya gonna start the engine ? most aircraft engines don't have a pullstart, so will need converting to either pullstart , or the use of a starter box, again that will need a custom flywheel, these are just the issues off the top of my head, there will be plenty more ?, theres a reason that 2stroke petrol engines are used in rc, and that's cos there fairly light, they are reliable as long as you look after em, there cheap to make and rebuild, and they will rev high, and can be made to create ridiculous amounts of power for there size, if you do go ahead with it , then good luck to you mate, and I will be interested to see what you come up with,

red button is for the pressure relief valve/auto shut off mate, pull it upwards and it will click and compressor will start, (once its plugged in ?) make sure the auto shut off works at the max 118psi, if it does then alls good, if pressure continues to rise into the red on the guage then it needs resetting, the rust on the handle/valve just wire brush it off and it will be fine as long as the lever opens/closes, it says theres a 6 litre receiver , so there should be a water drain on the underside of the tank, drain it regular, don't worry if there is water in the tank cos they generate heat when pumping, which in turn generates condensation inside the tank, the black knob on the side of the guage is the pressure adjustment knob, it will have a + and - sign on the end, plus for more pressure minus for less,

lol mate, bit of a misunderstanding, right, you have the large inlet hole, the one with the butterfly in it, that's where the fuel/air goes in, the smaller hole is the pulse hole, that sends a pulse back to the carb every revolution to work the diaphragm in the bottom of the carb, that in turn pumps fuel through the carb to supply fuel through the larger inlet,

there should only be one hole mate, it does look like two holes on the back side of the carb but the top ones blanked off a couple of mm in as I think you already know, bottom hole is the one that needs to be clear, all it does is pump the fuel, every revolution a pulse goes through that hole and pushes on a diaphragm in the bottom of the carb so it acts as a simple fuel pump, fuel doesn't actually go through that hole, just a pulse ,

lol mate, I can imagine your getting frustrated ( that might be an understatement ) with em then if you've bought half a dozen and you cant get any running, there has to be a simple explanation as to why your struggling though, I think you said your a mechanic so its obvious you know how an engine works, now just as sommat else to try mate, get the car in a clean place, no dust or crap kicking around, then take the air filter off and see if you can get it running, might sound daft but an over oiled filter can cause the issues your having, ie; the flooding, also try a new plug at the same time as well, do as nitro said above and clear the crankcase by turning upside down and pull over to get rid of excess fuel, fresh plug, or even pre warm the plug for 10 or 20 seconds with a lighter, refit plug and see if it starts without the filter on, it has to be something really simple mate,

sommat else to check mate, although you have said that you tried a few different carbs anyways, but is the throttle butterfly completely closed ? if it is then it will just suck fuel and flood all the time, might just need the idle screw inwards 1/4 or 1/2 a turn to open the throttle butterfly a shade. not sure how much you've had to do with these engines either, but don't try and get it running with the choke on, what I mean is , choke on, pull once or twice till you hear the first pop, choke off and pull a couple of times till it fires up. raw fuel out the pipe is massive flooding an all mate,

ey up mate, when you say it runs when you take the carb off do you mean a bit of fuel down the plughole and it fires for a few seconds ? but a few things to try, reset carb to stock needle settings, if its a walbro 668 (the most common carb) then needle settings are 1 1/4 turns out from fully seated on the low needle and 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated on the high needle, also check that you have the fuel lines the right way round, they are easy enough to mix up, lots of us have done it in the past , the inlet (one with the clunk on in the tank) goes to the bottom of the carb and the return line to the top of carb, also check that the clunk in the tank is still attached,and that theres no splits in the lines anywhwere , including inside the tank itself, or that the lines aint gone soft and are collapsing straight away when you pull the engine over, rings for these engines are cheap enough as well, about £7 each last time I bought some, and only one ring in Zenoah and cy engines, good luck ?,

lol dan, ya jumped the gun mate , but yeh your right to have a go yourself first, like you say if it goes wrong then just get a paint shop to fi it for ya ?, and yeh new modern paints all water based crap, orange peel city most of the modern finishes, but some older solvent based are still two or three stage paints, try it and see mate, whats the worst that can happen ?

matching paint can be a nightmare dan, most modern day paints are multi stage these days, what I mean is some paints require a certain colour primer underneath, then the basecoat, then clear, others will require a coloured primer, then a silver or white basecoat of a certain shade, then your coloured basecoat , then finally the clear, some paints like blues go over a black basecoat, using the wrong colour primer or wrong colour first stage basecoat will change the final shade / effect of your topcoat before clear, so you need to research and find out the correct basecoat to go under your gold matey, car paint also comes in variations as well, some will have three different variations or shades of the final top colour , if you have a local motor factors near you, check if they do paint mixing, then get yourself down there and they will have a load of colour chips that they will offer up against your paint finish and see what the final shade should be, they will also have the paint codes for any first stage basecoats etc, if you were painting all the gold parts then it wouldn't really matter as the final shade would be the same throughout the parts, but just doing one part gets complicated sometimes,

yeh it was a very tight squeeze mate , I made a custom chassis for it, 35mm longer than the stock one, dragon hammer defo needs power though, mine weighed 22kg with battery / servo's , the twin etc, just done a rework on it and made a lot of one off carbon fibre parts for it, trying to get the weight below 20kg

yeh theres a few test vids on youtube, and thanks mate, its a lot of work getting a twin to work in there

don't be put off mate, fid have been around a fair while now, the dragon hammer was there first full car, but fid parts have been around for losi etc for ages now, build quality is spot on in my opinion, and spares availability is very very good now from rcmodelz, I have a v1 and have had minor issues, but that's because I have a mental engine in there, nothing serious gone wrong yet though, plus the v2 has ironed out any v1 issues anyways now, heres my v1 as it is at the moment ,

no worries mate , did you get to the bottom of this yet ? heres sommat else to try/check, is the clutch bell a one piece or a welded on shaft ? if its a welded shaft then possibly the welds broken and the bells spinning but the pinion and shaft are staying still, its the metallic noise and very little drive when on the floor that makes it more likely to be clutch/bell area related, not sure which bell etc your using, but also maybe even the pinion spinning on the shaft, edit; you did a complete strip on the centre diff didn't you ? what I mean is , did you remove the gears in the diff and check for a snapped drive pin ?

ey up mate, just to add another check to your list, sounds like maybe the clutch perch is spinning on the crank, the centre bolt behind where the two clutch bolts clutch fastens on I mean, either the bolts loose or the perch taper may be worn and its just spinning and squeeling like a pig ,

lines and filter are correct mate, black line with the filter/clunk goes to bottom of the carb and the yellow return to the top of carb, the suction pressure aint much at all and the softer black will be fine mate, if you upgrade the lines at any time I suggest using tygon fuel line as it has a thicker wall and doesn't harden as much as the yellow stock line, the filter/clunk is also designed so that it will move around in the tank, ie; if you tip the car upside down then the clunk goes to the top of the tank and stays in the fuel, same thing happens if your going around a corner, the clunk will go where the fuel is being forced in the tank when cornering, as for the engine stopping, first off i'd check the vent in the fuel tank, its a small hole in the fuel cap, they sometimes get blocked and that creates a vacuum inside the tank and the fuel cant get sucked to the carb ,

just seen this on joels youtube channel, something a little different, it will be interesting to see one of these run, especially to see how the odd front suspension setup works,

looks like you got lucky mate , every so often clayton (vertigo rc ) has special offer prices when bought direct, and it looks like you timed it right, you will probably get stung for import duty but should still be a cheap clutch system when all said and done, as for compatibility issues with a twin, just double check all clearances when you fit the eac, should be fine, but if it wont fit then it should be an easy fix to make it work ,

no worries matey , I do know someone that fitted one to a 29 and he said he couldn't tell any difference, he actually took it out again and refitted the stocker, and at £43 plus post in my opinion its a lot of cash for a small gain,

have a quick read of this mike, to be honest I don't think your gonna see a massive difference though, I've heard of people having mixed results with stuffed cranks, and with the +1mm stroke then theres the need to stack gaskets an all, http://mmrmodeltech.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&path=63_66&product_id=185

yes matey, fg stadium shocks but as far as I is aware there the exact same ones, done a few measurments, total length is 145mm, 98mm between underside of shock cap and top side of perch, 125mm from top of cap eye to underside of perch, (the bit you asked ) , 20mm diameter shock body, 4mm shock shaft, 40mm shock travel ,

top banana mate , if you aint had or seen one o those hitecs you will be surprised at the quality of em, so much smoother and quieter , as for the lever doodad, its a 3rd servo to control the cooling fan on the twin, theres no flywheel fan on the twins and they run hot, so I run a lipo powered fan above the heatsink and carbs, fans on at idle and up to about 1/4 throttle, then switches off when more airflows going through the cage, 3rd servo controlled through channel mixing on my 4pls futaba, so switches on and off with throttle control, fan battery lasts longer that way , I probably could've said all that with less words ,

mine were the 0240 and 0241 savox mate, but yeh I've heard a few reports of bad savox jumbo's, smaller savox's are fine though, just seems to affect the jumbo ones, epa's on mine were well below 100% as well, if you do get the hitec 840 or 845 you might have to fit a 2 or 3mm spacer under the screwhole tabs, for some reason hitec made the case taller on em,