GT1

C-hubs and PBS hubs are interchangeable as far as I can recall. I know a lot of folks weren't fans of the pbs way back when and changed over to C-hubs. I would measure your cvd/dogbone lengths and check them against the TQ parts to be sure. (It most likely requires arm change, but on that I am not sure) Of course now some of the most winning 1/8 buggies are pillow ball.

Since Hobao is now being marketed again in the U.S. with parts support(slow boat, but still possible now) for the Hyper 7/8+ I would hope to see more action for these cars.

It could just be the weather then(atmospheric pressure), or different fuel, plug, lines, tank etcc, there are a few variables. Mostly just the weather will require a reset. The fun of nitro.

As it runs in it gets a better fit, becomes more efficient and will need leaned in, following proper break in procedure of course.

Okay, when I saw the email pic I was like Whaaaa?. A stump is going to win no matter what vehicle.

They opened up the big boy track at my local venue. 1/8 off road. 60+ feet to clear the triples, way out there. Back straight is 200 feet. Typhon handles it like a champ. I don't race but they had the opener there Sunday. Lots of folks racing. Top vid on their time line. https://www.facebook.com/Raceemrc/timeline

Find and bookmark good places for parts replacements, sure enough you will break something. I haven't ran my PBS yet, I hope I can find parts for it when it breaks.

What is powering your receiver in the car? If it is 4 AA size batteries in a pack that is 4.8 volts and it is not going to be enough, 5 cells will be 6 volts and that 1256 servo needs 6 volts to put out 20 kilograms of torque.

I would choose the 1256 TG for the power over the1258. The 1256 was developed for MTs and it is up to the job. I have one in my Typhon(e buggy) and it has been a treat so far after several hours of RC off road (real RC off road track) running. You'll want to be running a 5 cell rx pack(6.0 v) to get the power out of it.

Finally broke a part on my Typhon. Lower front arm, quite a few hours on the car now, all at the track. Giant jump, and I knew better, made it first time around, but fishtailed it the second time around, and knew it gosh @#$% it, I knew when it launched it was going to be bad. Anyway, have a brand new Mugen mbx7 arm on there now. The car is a match for anything I've seen at my track, but I'm not. I have really improved though. I went from spending all my time staying off the pipes and out of everyone's way to making laps, many laps without crashing. It is a lot more fun when your car stays right side up.

Finally managed to pick up a motor mount. After waiting for the conversion kit forever a fellow on facebook showed off his Hyper 7 conversion, turns out the Hyper SSE mount works fine on it. So I have that now and a battery tray. Going to transfer my Arrma Typhon motor and ESC to the Hyper most likely.

Since Tower is stating sometime early June. It might be somewhat difficult to get fingers on V2.

The Typhon is a winner. Probably not the V1 at current prices though. When I bought mine it was $300 U.S. to my door. There are choices available at current prices that I would seriously consider as well, like the Losi and Associated RTRs. If I had to buy right now.

Er....those are internal shims. They are handy, but likely unnecessary over the ones that go in there already. You want the external shims to take up your outdrive slop and to make sure you have good drive gear mesh on your front and rear. They are 13mm inner 16 mm outer and come in various thicknesses from .1 to .3 mm. They look like these. http://www.amazon.com/Tekno-RC-13X16X-1mm-Differential-TKR1222/dp/B00F8OQ2NC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Looks like the biggest change is the ESC, the tx is much better also, nice. Those wheels are ugly, though. The Typhon was a winner, now it is just that much better.