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t2boats

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Everything posted by t2boats

  1. Nice one Olly'! I made an unboxing video and speed trials, get them out the way first before it sees dirt for the first time in its life. Initial impressions are good, I raised the rear suspension straight away, moved the rear shocks inwards (top and bottom) by one hole, which have helped a great deal, sits better too. And I really like the flip top lid!! I didn't realise it had that - then later on discovered there's a picture of it on the back of the box ha! I think it's well made, very solid, and has some weight to it as well. I like how the stock ESC can handle 3S, I'm away at the moment until after Xmas, so when I return home I'll be having another meddle with a 4300kv motor and pinions to crack 40mph, with decent acceleration (that'll need 3S as 2S only notched up 35mph). The LED kit I've got are 5mm each, the little pods on the car will need drilling out a little for them to fit in, it should look good as there's 4 amber lights, 2x white, and 2 red to mount on the rear somewhere.
  2. I use a number of GoolRC motors in various RC's, and I've found them as good as the next. None have ever stopped working yet and they always delivery excellent performance. The larger motors, I'm using the 3660 size cans (both 3800kv) in my Outlaw and Viper on Hobbywing ESC's (WP-SC8 120A), 3S up their backsides with no problems at all. I've looked for the GoolRC combo's but can't find any, unless it's the 3650 can 4300kv and 60a esc, too small for your Rock Rey (which looks the Mutts Nuts by the way) what sort of size can are you after mond?
  3. You'll need these three items Fred: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outback-aluminium-wheel-axle-extra-long-5mm-4-/rc-car-products/404353 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outback-aluminium-wheel-hex-with-pins-2x10mm-extra-wide-5mm-4-/rc-car-products/404352 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outback-wide-rear-axle-forftx8245-8246/rc-car-products/407353
  4. @mamodman if I remember right I had to trim down the shank of the new wheel-bolt so it would sit comfortably on the thread of the stub axle. If you place the wheel on and screw in the wheel-bolt by hand, it'll come to a stop (as it's reached the end of the thread on the stub axle), you'll now see a gap between the nut and centre of the wheel, that's the amount you need to trim down off the shank. But, by doing that, you also run out of thread on the inside of the shank.... bit of a bugger. I added two small M3 washers placing them onto the wheel hex extender, then place the wheel on top, and screw in the wheel-bolt. Using those two small washers helped push out the wheel that small distance enough for the threads to tighten keeping the wheel secure. It would work, but I had doubts over it lacking security, so I wasn't really keen on the the idea in the end and bought the FTX axle extenders for my sons Tundra, same as my Ranger.
  5. haha I didn't even know they existed... (goes to show how often I shop for new gear lol) none of my bike clothes "match", it's just a combination of allsorts.. so long as I'm comfy and warm I don't mind.
  6. That makes nice reading that does, let's hope it drops even further... Sorted my Xmas prezzy for this year! Wife's getting me a pair of heated gloves can't wait to try them! I'm looking forward to not just having warm palms - but the backs and fingers warm too, and also being able to feel both thumbs and index fingers on a cold night
  7. @Wabom1981 it's unreal the difference, I always thought the 370 did well in the truck as it climbed whatever gradient and surface I threw at it, but since having the 55 Turn motor fitted - it's leagues apart it really is... that was clear straight away. It climbs with no effort needed. In comparison now, you can hear the difference in how the sound of the 370 waned very slightly when climbing as it was asking for more go which it needed to make the gradient. But now as it's geared so low, just the slightest touch on the trigger can make it crawl extremely slowly, and it's so pleasing to see it creep up obstacles, maintaining that same speed, and can hear the tyres clicking as their treads find grip. Chuffed to bits I've changed it! And the drag brake on the 1060 is good, keeps it planted stationary on steep inclines. Will be running it with my Ascender Bronco when I'm home in a few weeks. Since I've fitted a stronger servo, it's really exposed the weak plastic steering arm, so I need to fit a metal arm of some sort, and ali hubs too cos I can see the knuckle arms are bending slightly at full lock. edit - I need to finish the wooden course I started in the summer too, add a few rocks here n there. The Bronco is a little on the wide side for it, but just about fits on which adds to the test!
  8. @mamodman and theres this Suzuki, I know it's not a pickup, but it does look cool! https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-sumo-clear-body-for-ftx-outback-barrage-254mm-wheelbase/rc-car-products/425498
  9. @mamodman Midnight Pumpkin perhaps?!
  10. This one says it fits the Outback: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pro-line-1966-ford-f-100-clear-body-1-10/rc-car-products/380477 I've always wondered if the Tamiya Monster Beetle (Blitzer Beetle etc) shell would fit, the Brat too as already covered by Wabom is a great fit. I'll keep looking anyway!
  11. Had a little run of the Ranger yesterday before I came away to work. What an improvement over the stock motor.. It's using an 11t pinion, 55t motor, still on 2S. The control it's got now when crawling up obstacles is superb. I'll make a video when I'm home after Xmas!
  12. I think it's a great base to start with, works well out the box, brushed version is slow yes, but easily changed. From how mine performs now it's certainly up there as one of my favourites too.. I had fitted a Turnigy waterproof 17kg servo in mine not long after buying it, and it started to behave irratic, the slightest of tweak to either left or right and the servo overcompensated and would, quite violently, veer the car in that direction. Following a number of checks I couldn't find anything wrong with setups and radio, so ditched the Turnigy (totally lost faith in them now) and gone back to using TowerPro which I've never had a problem with in the past. As a last resort I tried the Turnigy in another rc, and it did the same thing. So the Outlaw now has the 20kg servo fitted, really good..
  13. I've recently picked one of these up, got the combo with a 2500mah 2S 40C lipo and balance charger for £140!! They're being sold from a modelshop in Middlesborough through eBay. Gotta say, it feels a solid RC, has some weight too. It's a bit bigger than I imagined it would be, and looks tip top So far I've tried a few different motors, 3000kv stock, 4300kv, and 5200kv. The 43' and 52' both used a 29 tooth 48dp pinion (which is the largest pinion you can physically fit with the amount of adjustment available). It notched up just 35mph with the 5200kv and 29t pinion... that spur gear is just a right overkill for this rc. Far too big!! So, until I find an alternative spur gear to fit, it'll be having its power provided by a 3S lipo..
  14. @Bix Hi Charlie, thanks for your interest, I've found it a worthy mod. It doesn't raise that front offside wheel now at all. You'll have to tailor the setting on your role bar to suit the torque of your motor and it'll be fine. Mine works spot on for a 3800kv on 3S! The motor is going really well, even the same motor in the Viper which I've had for longer is still going well. I've only recently switched to a waterproof Hobbywing EZRUN WPSC8 120A esc, and to be fair I've noticed a lot more cogging than before on the Hobbywing 120A esc which was not waterproof... I PlatiDip'd the receiver and have a waterproof 20kg steering servo now. As for going sensored, personally I wouldn't bother as I don't "pootle" slowly with it, as the Outlaw is not a crawler, I just belt the thing around going quickly with it. So I've just stuck with the sensorless system, and it's always returned great performance. 3S really does make it cover ground extremely quickly and with relevant ease. And the cogging, I run the same set up in my Viper, yet it doesn't cog - at all... I haven't got around to finishing the body posts on the SCT conversion yet, need to mount the posts somehow and get some video of it, I'm hoping it'll go well with the shell on. I know it goes well without!
  15. It'd be easy enough to do! You got all the gear? Is the Mammoth two-Speed?
  16. Hope you're back up n around again soon! Yeah it's a great forecast!! I really hope we get this snow we've been promised
  17. No probs Fred, been a bit busy with Xmas preparations so not had chance to run it yet. Can't wait to try though, it should make a big difference. Will be running it with my new Vaterra Bronco
  18. I had its counterpart, the GV Rambo - absolutely brilliant fun, and to this day I wish I'd never sold it. Came with a whopping .46 engine!! And it could shift with its 2-speed aswell. Stock tyres on my old off-road track were dire for cornering, so fitted a set of Rallycross wheels n tyres - you wouldn't have thought it was the same car. Totally changed it! But I'd always wondered about getting the Mammoth too, ended up buying a Savage 25 when they appeared (ownership of that was short-lived)..
  19. On another note, the Maverick Scout gearbox which arrived for mine had it labelled as 0.6mod, I soon found out it's infact 48dp! So had to order another pinion, spot on fit now.
  20. Decided to go down the 540 motor route with the Outback and finally got a a chance to actually start the job! Hopefully this weather will subside a bit so I can get down the lane to try things out. Anyway, this is how I did it..
  21. Decided to give the 959 a bit more of a kick up its behind and fit a 3S. My hardcased 3S lipo's don't fit the stock battery holders, so fitted this new tray today which I'd bought for another RC. The tray is from an FTX Outlaw. Had to cut the corner as there wasn't quite enough room, and with the battery in place there's around 6mm between the tyre tread and corner of the Lipo.
  22. I've seen a number videos over the last few years using a very clever way of filming their RC's, so I've been fiddling around making a 360degree swivel camera boom. Used a length of 22mm plastic conduit pipe, a castor wheel, some drain pipe to mount it on, some car wheel weights to help balance things out, and a mobile phone holder to shoot the action. Hopefully get out tomorrow and make a quick video if this weather subsides...
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