m1tch_87

Indeed, you can set the motor up to different driving styles, how much braking force the motor gives as well as other things - plus you can play with gearing as well. I am tempted to get myself an off road electric at some point as well, much easier than a nitro as you just plug the battery in and off you go - once it runs down, just plug another battery in and off you go.

I had the Carnage NT, it was fairly fast when I got it running but the reason why nitro powered cars are starting to die out is due to the fact that brushless electric motors are now surpassing the nitro performance (and a lot less messy!).

Check out the HPI firestorm

I have no time or space to be able to run or test it, it's not fun at all, expensive and quite stressful so I don't want to carry on with it - total run time of actually running an RC car around is around 15 minutes, the rest of the hours upon hours have been trying to get it running and fixing everything. This is further coupled with the fact that I was going for both the open wheel ROSSA record as well as the nitro record - I have now seen another build for a nitro car which will easily beat all of my hard work.

Had enough of this useless moneypit. *Project cancelled*

So like all RC dogbone and driveshaft links?

I am sure if you measure it up there will be some metal equivalent on other models.

If you are looking for something off road and electric perhaps look at the HPI Firestorm - HPI have loads of upgrade parts, if you enjoy modding things perhaps look to get into ROSSA speed runs

Before you go out and buy various cars (although you will probably end up with a fair collection once you start!) its best to decide what you are wanting to do, are you looking to race competitively? Looking to run the car on road or off road? Just for fun? Etc. If you let us know what sort of things you are after we can help you - I am a newbie as well and this forum has been super helpful!

Just finished the engine mounts off, engine is back in with the spacers, all up weight is 2.5kg, as a comparison the .28 powered HPI Pulse like my father in law has is 3.3kg and I am guessing that would be the weight without the RX batteries and bodywork etc. I have also just taped my tyres, will glue them in a bit but its another stage closer to getting done, currently running the stock 14/50 gearing for break in/load.

I guess it would depend on how the engine was set up and the engine size, although I am a newbie I know that my RC is using a huge amount of fuel as its being broken in, might be worth checking fuel mixtures + temps - you might be able to lean out the mix slightly but it depends on the size of the engine.

So after around 3 hours of using a hand file I think I have managed to cut the slots for the engine mounts far enough to allow for the different gearing setups, I will hopefully now be able to fit the stock gearing for the next phase for break in and then gradually change the gearing out.

What ESC rating should I go with? I think I saw the 2.5t version running a 110a constant?

It sounds like its just the BEC that has gone then - you will just need an external power supply to run the receiver and servos much like you have to do on nitro cars, usually plug in a 6v hump pack but mine came with a 4x AA battery pack which has the same connector.

Did you set the ESC in brushless mode?

I have a selection of the 2.5T, 3.0T and the 3.0t sensored just to try things out, quite impressed that they came with a sensor cable as well.

But at £3 or so it interesting to try them out Also

Planning to use mine on a 1S car build.

Thanks for that, I will be hooking up the gearbox on the next few tanks when I get a chance, I am trying to be careful with the break in, will see how it goes I guess. I will check the smoke colour but considering its chucking raw fuel out of the exhaust I think it would be running on the rich side, need to go through the tuning check list to get the thing running right though. What temps should the engine be running at?

Quick update on this, I have been away for my wedding and honeymoon which is why I haven't been posting much, I have now had a chance to get the car out again for further break in. I have now run another 3 tanks through the engine and am doing a few 2 second bursts on the throttle, the engine is still very rich and sometimes cuts out if I blip it, plus there is a fair amount of fuel being chucked out the exhaust plus smoke on throttle. I am doing my best to get this engine broken in, I just have an issue where everything else is almost there but the engine isn't ready which is holding me up, I am trying to get everything up and running for the ROSSA day but the deadline is fast approaching.

Yeah I am going the soft break in route, its had a tank idling so far, plus a tank with a few 1/4 throttle revs for a few seconds - no load though as the engine is disconnected from the gearbox. I was thinking about something like having a large plastic storage box and put it in that with a feed for the carb, I have seen someone put a very long piece of flexible pipe on the exhaust stinger to silence it - will look into some options.

Hi all, I am still trying to get my nitro engine broken in ready for the ROSSA speed trials soon, the issue being is that I live in a flat meaning I need to travel somewhere else to start the engine up as its fairly noisy. I was just wondering if anyone know a way to quieten down the engine so I can just run it on the balcony to my flat without disturbing the neighbors etc. Thanks in advance - really really need to get the engine broken in asap!

Give it a chance, you might find those who have got theirs so far might have been a slightly different model, mine took a while to come through.

I have opened up one of the 2.5t motors I have, very impressed with the overall build quality of them - hopefully there will be some cheap fun cars built up using these

For priming my nitro engine I simply use a spare bit of fuel pipe, unplug the line from the exhaust at the tank, then attach the spare line to blow down, I then simply reattach the line from the exhaust again and off I go.