Bunny_Basher

To answer, yes its a straight swap. I changed the clutch housing to a Bartolone billet clutch housing and had to grind away a small amount of aluminium casting one the crankcase where the manufacturer had failed to CNC/mill away enough material around the crank, but if you stick with the supplied clutch housing it is a straight swap

Started to swap out the standard engine with the SCZ, looks like spacers/packers will be required beneath the mounting points, anyone care to comment on what size is required? Just concerned that I might mess up the mesh between drive and centre diff.

Ti bolts FTW Due to work commitments I've not had chance to look at the engine, let alone fit it however I am on vacation from next Mon for 2-weeks, so will get some time to fit and start to run-in the SCZ.

Nice review, not much I will be able to add One thing, from a collective point of view will be owners experience with the reed petals (life & durability of stock ones, anyone using CF or non-SCZ supplied reed petals?). What carb and exhaust do you have fitted on your engine?

By all means post here, one consolidated thread is probably better for others to find/locate if searching for info on the engine.

Yeh, wierd...somehow they have gone And I deleted the originals from my phone when they had uploaded. Will have to redo them

Just seen your post on BF, good info there. With regard to the clutch, I'll try this set up first as a decent adjustable set will cost more than a 1/3rd of the engine... If I destroy the this one in a tank or two, then nothing lost other than my time to replace it ;)

I've created a thread topic specifically for the SCZ engine. Also I have uploaded a couple more videos where I give my initial impressions of the engine.

This thread will detail my experiences (warts and all) with the SCZ engine, from the initial unboxing, first impressions, fitting and running, finishing up after a few tanks of fuel have been used. Unboxing video First impressions - part 1 First impression - part 2

You sure? Ive got a rather fancy 'man cave' in the garden (seriously I can't begin to call it a shed ;)), in which is my main PC...my router is in the dinning room, in the main house. Initially I tried relying on wifi, but the bandwidth and reliability was not good. I tried network over powerline adaptors and although better than the wifi, I just could not get good enough speed for my use. So in the end I bit the bullet and spent a Saturday installing external grade Cat5 from my router to the man cave. Result being that I now have as good speed/latency outside as I enjoy in the house The cable is not that expensive, can be laid straight into earth/gravel so easy to install. Or if you don't want it in the ground, just run it at high level using catenary support wire.

If you're generally happy with your TV but just need more hdmi input options, why not spent £50 and buy an hdmi switcher. You can then plug in up to 4x pieces of AV gear and have 1x hdmi lead to your tv. If you are after a new tv then any of the true HD 1080p TVs for sale in your price bracket will be okay for the sort of viewing you have described. Plasma TVs have all but disappeared from the market, but if you can get one, it will give you the best contrast and 'blacks' you will get at a sub £1k price point. LCD's are okay for most people, but if it were me I'd get a plasma and indeed I did for my prior TV. If money was no object, then if you want the best, it has to be OLED! Having just replaced our Panny plasma, I am blown away by the infinite contrast and blackest blacks, plus vivid colours from the OLED technology. Problem is you won't be able to get a decent OLED TV under £2k for a few years yet.

Mmm....good luck getting anything like the gear shown in the video within a £50 budget For a starter, he has said in his responses that he is using a UHF control radio, the RX/TX + antennas will set you back £200-£300. His video system is 2.4MHz, again the TX/RX is going to be circa £70-£150, with the patch antenna on the tripod probably costing your £50 budget alone! If you are sticking to a budget of £50, I'd say you are limited to using your existing RC control radio and maybe a low end FPV camera + 5.8GHz video Tx/Rx combo.

Samba are good pipes for stock/small cc engines (<30cc). For a 32cc, you need to go for a pipe with a larger expansion chamber, ideally one that has been tuned to suit a larger engine. For stock engines, I think that the Samba pipe i have on my 5ive T gives good performance (i.e. a wide power band) and sensible noise levels. You can buy stupidly noisy pipes that do little to boost performance - indeed I've seen it all before in my days of riding 1:1 2-stroke motorcycles - unfortunatelysome people blindly associate more noise as equaling more power

Now...tell the truth....one pellet went in the bullseye, but the other 13 are out of view Back when I was really into competitive HFT shooting, I found that the consistency of the pellets became more important than the rifle... as the PCP Daystate and Theoben rifles I used were so good.

Link to the un-boxing video. SCZ 29cc in boxing Apologies to all as my video camera batt was out of charge, cba to wait for it to charge, so used my phone = narrow field of view

Well, it turned up a little late due to ParcelFarce, but safe and sound. I've made an unboxing video, which is currently uploading to YouTube. Glad to say, no horrendous discolouration in the casting as seen in some of the earlier photos from another forum. I've got to partially disassemble the engine to install a SuperBee kill switch, so may take a few more pics tomorrow. Just to confirm, I purchased this engine from Adam, Baja Cars. I did initially contact SCZ Racing direct, but their export price with shipping from China was about the same as buying from Adam here in the UK. He has UK stock and sells via his online webpage so there is no danger of being hit with extra Duty/VAT charges as may happen if you buy from outside the EU.

For use in the UK... .... in a word no. Max power/wattage is too high also the 868MHz frequency is mainly used by alarms and short range devices (SRD's), wireless microphones, remote metering devices, automotive remote locking and many more applications, so stomping all over this radio frequency with high power radio from an airborne video Tx is liable to attract the unwanted attention of Ofcom or similar. Some people just buy any old device from over seas and use it, oblivious to any harm they may be causing or risk of prosecution they may face. It has to be said that you don't get to hear of many prosecutions by ofcom, but they do happen and can result in heavy fines and/or imprisonment. It is a bit irresponsible of HobbyKing not to at least highlight to potential purchases what the legal frequencies (and max radiated power limits) are for video Tx/FPV. If customers still want to but the gear, then it's their rsik - but I guess HK just want to make sales and they rely upon the principle of caveat emptor (buyer beware) - i.e. that it is up to the customer to establish if the item being purchased is in fact legal to use in the customers Country.

Are you 100% certain that you got the right hop up item(s)? Not that many UK stockists have hop ups specifically for the Maverick Blackouts - can you post a hyperlink to what you purchased? Also, do you mean you can't fit the post(s) or the servo saver assembly onto the post(s)? There are 2x pairs of posts, 1 pair are bigger diameter than the others

As you've already experienced, long range rc at ground level does not really happen, if planning on using FPV as well it will only cause more issues. Most ground rc control is via 2.4GHz, which essentially means line of sight and 150m-200m max range. You could use UHF, i.e. 433MHz-459MHz (OpenLRS or one of the proprietary systems) - this would get you more range and retain a degree of control when operating non-line of sight - but and its a HUGE but, the problem would then be what frequency to use for your video. 5.8GHz is great for close/medium range for flying rc and can be used at 2.4GHz control range - however, if using for FPV at ground level it would be useless at the greater range you could potentially get out to if controlling your car via UHF. An alternative would be to use 1.2GHz - 1.3GHz for you video/FPV gear (a great combo with UHF rc control for aircraft), but at ground level you would experience lots of imultipath distortion of signals - this could be mitigated to an extent by using the same principles as the FPV plane/quad fliers and use L/RHCP antenna's to minimise reflected signals and interference - but the range would be nothing like that you'd get in the air. I use UHF and 1.3GHz FPV for some of my planes, but frankly would not be comfortable using these on ground rc car etc. The potential outcome of losing control and causing harm or damage to others if you lost sight of your rc vehicle is just not worth the risk. Stick with line of sight, using 2.4GHz - if you want to FPV within line of sight range, then 5.8GHz video is perfectly okay.

Mine should turn up today/tomorrow. I'll do an unboxing vid as there does not appear to be many online and it will be good for those sitting on the fence to see what these engines look like, straight from the factory. With the weather being so cr@p, I won't be taking my cars out in the near future, so will take my time rebuilding the 5ive. So it may be a while before the engine is run in, but I will give a regular update as too many folks who purchased one of these engines don't follow up with post install/longevity feedback. [I'm hoping that this is because they are having so much fun, rather than any negative experience ;)]. As to the 9hp claim, I let the videos demonstrate to me how powerful the engine is....I mean, any engine that propels the heavy 5ive around like can be seen on the various YouTube vids is good enough for me. A few years ago I modded my motorbike, was told it should produce 120bhp, but when I had it tested on a dyno, it produced just over 100bhp at the back wheel...when challenged the mod supplier then said it was 120bhp at the crank...since then I've disregarded claimed max hp claims for any engine!

Excuse the pun, but this post is very topical for me as I pushed the button and paid for one on Wed. Unfortuntely for me it cost more than £280 (but its UK, so no extra VAT or duty as might happen if buying from outside the EU). Personally I dont do shelf queens so not fussed about the cosmetic blemishes in the casting (I may end up spraying the casting if it looks really bad ) Spares seem to be readily available, so deffo worth a punt. Probably going to mount it in a 5ive T, replacing a stock motor. Not looking for Max top speed, just something revvy and more powerful than stock. The SCZ 29 on paper looks to tick all the boxes for me. Oh, I will be fitting a WT-1048 carb as this engine needs a lot of air when running WOT

If you are still looking, then try Depron - very good foam board for aircraft. You 'can' hot glue it (using low temp hot glue), I've had no success with CA, but Gorilla glue works a treat. Available in various thickness of sheet, so easy to build up layers i.e. if you are using KF airfoils. Numerous UK suppliers, but try these Depron UK

That FlySky combo is cheap for a reason The Tx is not the important thing here, it is the Rx which you need to worry about as this is the item physically connected to the flight controller. It seems that the R6-B Rx is unable to output PPM unless you connect/use a PWM to CPPM encoder. This device connects to the receiver outputs and then combines multiple PWM (pulse width modulated) signals into a single CPPM (combined pulse position modulated) signal. As advised by previous posters, there are better Rx units out there for quads and airborne RC craft using digital flight controllers.

I have a Team C TR8TE truggy (also known as the Torch E) which is the low end T8E. My understanding is that Absima (as the European distributor of Team C) have rebranded and repacked the base Team C buggy as the Stoke E. What are they like, well for a brushless truggy with the right lipo setup they go like a scolded cat. Suspension is a bit weak (I upgraded mine), the stock tires are not great, but I'll run them until they need replacing. The plastics seem robust as any fitted to a 1/8th scale, (but then again I've been spoilt by my 5th scale cars. The supplied TX is functional, but don't expect anything more than braking/throttle and steering. The big positive is the availability of hop ups and bolt on goodies.... ....you will run out of money before you run out of stuff you can change on a Team C based car

I've got a Blackout ST, which other than a different shell and wheels is essentially the same as the XB. I also have Losi 5ive T, which to some is the bench mark for out of the box 5th scale, and being honest I am quite impressed with the V2 Blackout build quality as it is very close to the Losi. The standard servos are admittedly weak and the standard exhaust needs to be junked for a decent tuned pipe. But the transmission and engine are perfectly robust for some hard bashing. You won't win any races againstagainst cars with tuned/oversized engines, but perfectly okay as stock for 90% of people. Good availability of spares in the UK, which I have to say are also surprisingly affordable compared to Losi stuff. Not a huge range of hop ups and mods, but you can look to the US and get Redcat Rampage hop ups which mostly bolt straight on. I really don't know why the Maverick Blackouts are such a niche car in the UK as they seem to give more bang for your buck (or £) than say a tricked out KM or entry level Baja.