Karl Hungus
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Posts posted by Karl Hungus
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The two buggies I'm between are:
Hong nor x3 sabre rtr
Thanks again
This, this, a million times this.
It is amazing and with your budget you could easily grab another engine to stick in. I took mine to my local club just to have some fun on their track, obligatory let the pros have a go as thanks and they were blown away with how good it is for an RTR
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Yup though I hope it's as much fun stripping it down and cleaning it lol. Track was just outside Norwich at Norfolk Buggy Club.
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So finally have my new RC broken in and found a course to go play at. Many thanks to those on here offering advice as its made things much less painfull than they could have been, and after seeing how badly I drive I'm sure you'll agreee I'll have more to fix soon XD
Apologies for vertical video, Also there is one expletive after a small crash so NSFW for some...
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But do I have to hold the trigger in position as I press the failsafe button for the second time to fix it
Yes. Then test by releasing all controls and switching off the transmitter which should force the servos to the position you just set.
Also theres a guy selling shock socks in the forum marketplace and considering these get filthy with the exhaust emptying on them, I grabbed myself a set.
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Kyosho Inferno Neo 2.0?
Two blues in picture, I'm after the dark blue ones?
If so, one dark blue and one black set please.
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Just thought I'd share my learning for the day.
The hex screws mounting the engine are not threadlocked and as they are a metal on metal connection should be. I've now applied a small amount of blue threadlock to these.
The failsafe will work with loss of signal but not if batteries run out. (also note it is not setup out the box and should apply full brake) A seperate low voltage failsafe is my #1 next purchase.
I'm glad I saw this video. Probably saved me wasting tons of money on unnecessary parts.
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Nice, It's quite terrifying how fast it will actually go lol
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Break in complete using traxxas method but honoring the manual by running first tank at idle off wheels. Had a little stickiness at tank three but is now purring along. Can't wait for tommorow to begin tuning!
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Couple of quick questions:
Do you get a light buzzing from the servos sometimes (in default position). I can eliminate it by adjusting trim but as soon as you use the transmitter they will do so again?
Do your wheels look angled / ------ \
Mine really don't seem straight but I guess we'll see when we get to the next tank XD
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Make sure your throttle trim is centred, then adjust the idle screw out which will slow the idle
All my needle settings were well out ,when I got mine and had to reset them to what the manual says.
Once the running in is done you'll be able to change the Venturi over and the start to tune it
Cheers mate. Manual with all bold text caps DO NOT AJUST SCREWS THEY ARE ALREADY PERFECT is lies lol
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yup wan't helping. Not sure if it's becuase I was starting with 25% fuel. But anyway squirt into the glow plug hole and away it went. Now I have wheel rotation in the idle position (started about half a tank through and only slowish) so off to google and fix this before continuing.
Sure is a rollercoaster of pits of despair and highs of problem solving lol
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Getting seriously narked off with mine now. Really hard to get it to start made nightmarish because the pull start string keeps coming out a slot on the spool (not the gap between both pieces) and snagging in the engine. Why would you put a gap on the thing for this to happen???
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Basically it has been pulled too far and has "jumped" past the point where it will retract by itself.
Normally there is a screw in the centre that holds the spring/spindle/cord
I have loosened that slightly on mine before and it has retracted back.
You can take it totally apart if need be but the spring can be a bugger to get back in.
Cheers for reply.
Loosening did not help so had to disassemble. What a PITA. Putting the spring into the main housing and then fitting the wheel with string on top proved a much, much easier way than coiling the spring round the wheel and fitting it all into the housing. Almost feel like a real RC'er now. Perhaps tommorow I can even drive it lol
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So my brand new toy was immediately put out of action by the pullstarter. On removing it a large amount of cord had become knotted around the spindle? marked in the picture below. It's now moving but the cord remains mostly out of the pullstarter as shown in this video http://youtu.be/Q1uTkxBz55g
How to fix please?
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Yeah I did a double cut on on my finger and it bled ..... A lot
On another note if ordering more wheel nuts as I lost one of mine, get the mp9 ones as the have nylon in the threads so assume will be better.... I hope
The pull start on mine isn't the quickest retracting.. It gets easier though
Did you buy the fuel filter extra?
And why the fuel tube round the heat sink on the headache?
Yup got the fuel filter extra, though I just flipped it (and the tubing it's fitted to) round so it stays out the way of the throttle servo better. The fuel pipe on the heatsink is attached with zipties and prevents damage to the heatsink when your car goes upside down (note I did not say IF lol)
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If its flooded and compression locked undo the glow plug and then free the engine, then try again.
When engine is tight and no fuel gone through its normal!!
Yeah tried this, the thing is locked solid. I can rotate the flywheel fine*, moves freely hits tight point as cylinder rises then becomes free again but it has no effect on the pullstart.
*Excluding death by paper cuts to fingers, damn that things sharp lol
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Yeah tried that but it doesn't help. I'm calling DOA pullstart as it wasn't retracting properly from the start.
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Finally Arrived.
Broke it already lol The pull start takes forever to return, nm I thought just don't pull hard on it with a flooded engine, don't pull it too far and let it return before pulling again. Now it's locked tight about 15cm out. Pfft. So didn't even get to break it in, sigh.
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Mines on order now. RTR should really include a metal detector huh XD
Forgot some fuel line and still unsure if theres a fuel filter fitted to the tank so went back for some bits this morning along with some blue threadlock!
EDIT: also saw something abut this and always being the left hand side due to the direction of the thread so time to hunt matching blue reverse thread nuts I guess lol
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could always boil a few pieces up also
use to do this to the old long antena tubes that used to be stubborn lolReason I double posted the same answer. PC cooling using acrylic tubing which can be heated to increase flexibility, RC tubing AFAIK is silicone which is resistant to heat so I doubt can be heated to increase flexibility, but if i'm wrong happy to be corrected.
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they responded to my email.
seems like there is nothing I can do
Byelaw 45 covers the use of such vehicles and has been used previously to successfully prosecute people using model cars at the Magistrates Court.
Improperly using or disfiguring the Forest
(45) Making any improper or offensive use of any part of the Forest or doing anything tending to the injury or disfigurement thereof or to the defeat of the general purposes of the Epping Forest Act 1878 or of these byelaws.
I hope this answers your enquiry.
All of this is highly subjective and open to the interpretation of as a good a lawyer as you have at your disposal. 'Improper' and 'offensive' need to be defined in the legislature precisely (and probably are) but sending you this is just usual government scaremongering.
Personally I dislike small dogs so a jack russel ****ting in the woods and scratching earth/grass over it would be a completely illegal act, number of prosecutions for that?!
EDIT just googled it: https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/green-spaces/epping-forest/about-us/Documents/epping-forest-byelaws.pdf
More likely to be considered a nuisnace to others. Electric would also fall under this. There are no stipulations for model cars only aircraft so If you wanted to use it I would contact the conservator asking for permission to do so. They may offer an area where this is possible though they may likely still frown upon nitro due to the noise.
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Pretty sure he means double layer it (the small extra length going over the outside to increase compression on the fitting). I build PC's with water cooling and the principle is the same, many people were using hose clips until it was best practise to use oversize fitting with heated tubing put over the top which is much more secure.
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Hey Gwigga
Just had a read through your thread and I'd really appreciate your thoughts on the car after running it for a bit (any weak spots, servos good etc).
I used to own a Turbo Inferno and back then it was THE car to own (also try sourcing parts without the internet lol). I like the ST Truggy from a technical pov but its just so goddamn ugly
I also hate these stupid hotwheels transmitters that come with everything now so my thoughts are to buy the Kyosho and then if I get into the hobby again maybe look at an ST PRO kit build later. -
Thanks for the reply!
Would you be willing to elaborate on why you recommend those?
Having watched some reviews it seems a lot of people are converting their revos to slayers??? Sadly lots of feedback on the engines dying quite quick too but obviously without much experience its hard to tell whats going to be costing me money only that something surely will lol
Having learnt a little more, I definitley feel I should stick with a truggy for surviving jumps and being able to handle offroad conditions.
Converting an old nitro on return to the hobby
in General - Electric
Posted
Five years ago I bought a Hong Nor Sabre X3, then moved abroad for a job ,gifting it to a friend who never used it.
Flash forward and I'm back in the UK having a blast with a 144001, but not wanting to dump money into it for upgrades. I would love however to convert that X3 to electric.
How easy would this be both technically and to acquire parts for such an old car? Also would this cost me more than buying something of similar spec new today?