Karl Hungus

Five years ago I bought a Hong Nor Sabre X3, then moved abroad for a job ,gifting it to a friend who never used it. Flash forward and I'm back in the UK having a blast with a 144001, but not wanting to dump money into it for upgrades. I would love however to convert that X3 to electric. How easy would this be both technically and to acquire parts for such an old car? Also would this cost me more than buying something of similar spec new today?

This, this, a million times this. It is amazing and with your budget you could easily grab another engine to stick in. I took mine to my local club just to have some fun on their track, obligatory let the pros have a go as thanks and they were blown away with how good it is for an RTR

Yup though I hope it's as much fun stripping it down and cleaning it lol. Track was just outside Norwich at Norfolk Buggy Club.

So finally have my new RC broken in and found a course to go play at. Many thanks to those on here offering advice as its made things much less painfull than they could have been, and after seeing how badly I drive I'm sure you'll agreee I'll have more to fix soon XD Apologies for vertical video, Also there is one expletive after a small crash so NSFW for some...

Yes. Then test by releasing all controls and switching off the transmitter which should force the servos to the position you just set. Also theres a guy selling shock socks in the forum marketplace and considering these get filthy with the exhaust emptying on them, I grabbed myself a set.

Kyosho Inferno Neo 2.0? Two blues in picture, I'm after the dark blue ones? If so, one dark blue and one black set please.

Just thought I'd share my learning for the day. The hex screws mounting the engine are not threadlocked and as they are a metal on metal connection should be. I've now applied a small amount of blue threadlock to these. The failsafe will work with loss of signal but not if batteries run out. (also note it is not setup out the box and should apply full brake) A seperate low voltage failsafe is my #1 next purchase. I'm glad I saw this video. Probably saved me wasting tons of money on unnecessary parts.

Nice, It's quite terrifying how fast it will actually go lol

Break in complete using traxxas method but honoring the manual by running first tank at idle off wheels. Had a little stickiness at tank three but is now purring along. Can't wait for tommorow to begin tuning!

Couple of quick questions: Do you get a light buzzing from the servos sometimes (in default position). I can eliminate it by adjusting trim but as soon as you use the transmitter they will do so again? Do your wheels look angled / ------ \ Mine really don't seem straight but I guess we'll see when we get to the next tank XD

Cheers mate. Manual with all bold text caps DO NOT AJUST SCREWS THEY ARE ALREADY PERFECT is lies lol

yup wan't helping. Not sure if it's becuase I was starting with 25% fuel. But anyway squirt into the glow plug hole and away it went. Now I have wheel rotation in the idle position (started about half a tank through and only slowish) so off to google and fix this before continuing. Sure is a rollercoaster of pits of despair and highs of problem solving lol

Getting seriously narked off with mine now. Really hard to get it to start made nightmarish because the pull start string keeps coming out a slot on the spool (not the gap between both pieces) and snagging in the engine. Why would you put a gap on the thing for this to happen???

Cheers for reply. Loosening did not help so had to disassemble. What a PITA. Putting the spring into the main housing and then fitting the wheel with string on top proved a much, much easier way than coiling the spring round the wheel and fitting it all into the housing. Almost feel like a real RC'er now. Perhaps tommorow I can even drive it lol

So my brand new toy was immediately put out of action by the pullstarter. On removing it a large amount of cord had become knotted around the spindle? marked in the picture below. It's now moving but the cord remains mostly out of the pullstarter as shown in this video http://youtu.be/Q1uTkxBz55g How to fix please?

Yup got the fuel filter extra, though I just flipped it (and the tubing it's fitted to) round so it stays out the way of the throttle servo better. The fuel pipe on the heatsink is attached with zipties and prevents damage to the heatsink when your car goes upside down (note I did not say IF lol)

Yeah tried this, the thing is locked solid. I can rotate the flywheel fine*, moves freely hits tight point as cylinder rises then becomes free again but it has no effect on the pullstart. *Excluding death by paper cuts to fingers, damn that things sharp lol

Yeah tried that but it doesn't help. I'm calling DOA pullstart as it wasn't retracting properly from the start.

Finally Arrived. Broke it already lol The pull start takes forever to return, nm I thought just don't pull hard on it with a flooded engine, don't pull it too far and let it return before pulling again. Now it's locked tight about 15cm out. Pfft. So didn't even get to break it in, sigh.

Mines on order now. RTR should really include a metal detector huh XD Forgot some fuel line and still unsure if theres a fuel filter fitted to the tank so went back for some bits this morning along with some blue threadlock! EDIT: also saw something abut this and always being the left hand side due to the direction of the thread so time to hunt matching blue reverse thread nuts I guess lol

Reason I double posted the same answer. PC cooling using acrylic tubing which can be heated to increase flexibility, RC tubing AFAIK is silicone which is resistant to heat so I doubt can be heated to increase flexibility, but if i'm wrong happy to be corrected.

All of this is highly subjective and open to the interpretation of as a good a lawyer as you have at your disposal. 'Improper' and 'offensive' need to be defined in the legislature precisely (and probably are) but sending you this is just usual government scaremongering. Personally I dislike small dogs so a jack russel ****ting in the woods and scratching earth/grass over it would be a completely illegal act, number of prosecutions for that?! EDIT just googled it: https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/things-to-do/green-spaces/epping-forest/about-us/Documents/epping-forest-byelaws.pdf More likely to be considered a nuisnace to others. Electric would also fall under this. There are no stipulations for model cars only aircraft so If you wanted to use it I would contact the conservator asking for permission to do so. They may offer an area where this is possible though they may likely still frown upon nitro due to the noise.

Pretty sure he means double layer it (the small extra length going over the outside to increase compression on the fitting). I build PC's with water cooling and the principle is the same, many people were using hose clips until it was best practise to use oversize fitting with heated tubing put over the top which is much more secure.

Hey Gwigga Just had a read through your thread and I'd really appreciate your thoughts on the car after running it for a bit (any weak spots, servos good etc). I used to own a Turbo Inferno and back then it was THE car to own (also try sourcing parts without the internet lol). I like the ST Truggy from a technical pov but its just so goddamn ugly I also hate these stupid hotwheels transmitters that come with everything now so my thoughts are to buy the Kyosho and then if I get into the hobby again maybe look at an ST PRO kit build later.

Thanks for the reply! Would you be willing to elaborate on why you recommend those? Having watched some reviews it seems a lot of people are converting their revos to slayers??? Sadly lots of feedback on the engines dying quite quick too but obviously without much experience its hard to tell whats going to be costing me money only that something surely will lol Having learnt a little more, I definitley feel I should stick with a truggy for surviving jumps and being able to handle offroad conditions.