Nitro RC Nerd

Thanks for thatb pic....that's a slick looking machine there! I was not impressed with the front PBS suspension either. I'm soon to try the rear PBS with front c-hub. I've heard great things about that setup...we;ll see, P5...I was surprised at how much I like it, but remember it's clocked. Know nothing about the stock form. Regarding shock bodies....I'm on the fence. I like both. Threaded guys really look down on the collars, but as you mentioned if you want 100% precision that is the way to go. I agree this is good discussion. I don't get the opportunity to talk Hyper 7 much (I know a few guys with them) but the rest are so new (which is fine) but can't really talk shop with 'em just yet. I have a lot of questions, and am about the fly with them.....;-)

Shims are optional. I removed mine as the ring/pinion were meshed fine without it. Regardless none of that affects the direction the wheels go. Curious as to why 100k in the center? I've never gone more than 10k in the center, and had to increase the front to 7k in doing that...this was for off-road. If you are trying to go fast I'd check out lighter oils. Try 5-7-2. Or as Tug suggested, increase your front oil to something like (I have no idea) but it should be somewhat in sync with center diff oil. While you've never heard of the setup options I inquired about, they (along with all the others) define how your vehicle behaves on a given environment. i.e. You need to set your vehicle up for flat/high traction surface (assuming you are running on pavement). Back to your issue...which tire(s) are breaking traction? Is the rear fishtailing? Is the front lifting up to where the tires are leaving the ground? If so what are the front wheels doing when lifted up? Finally regarding camber....if it's not veering at other times, I imagine it's fine. For it to throw your vehicle in random directions when you accelerate...I guess I'm missing something. But again I know nothing about brushless nor the other components you noted (ebay breakers?). But wheel spin is almost always due to tire or clutch settings (is there not a slipper clutch in it?)

First things, if your tires are breaking traction, most likely it's your clutch setup. It's spinnign wheels on-road...correct? Is it the rear, front, or both? Do you have an RPM lag? If you (or anyone reading) need me to elaborate on what I mean here, I'm happy to. If your wheels are spinning, assuming you have the right tires, the clutch is that is the first thing I would take care of, Second..give us your current setup (in addition to clutch). It's highly unlikely not one thing causing this. Camber mainly affects turning as do diffs. Yes, they both play a role in acceleration (as does 100% of the rest of the vehicle), but if its consistent, I would look at everything that affects forward bite. Otherwise it could be silly like too much droop up front with slop. I can't diagnose (nor can anyone else for that matter) without knowing your setup, however. Otherwise it's just a guess.

Also, here's something I put together a month or so ago about inspecting a used RTR nitro. The vehicle I used as my example not a Hyper 7...but the concept is the exact same. Best thing you can do for performance with this vehicle is ensure everything is properly setup. Take the money you have for extra parts and buy diff oils (1-10k), shock oils (20, 22.5, 25, 27.5, 30, 32.5, 35. 37.5, 40), clutch springs (I think the Mugen MBX6/7 ones will work with the stock shoes...I can validate for you if you'd like, shock springs, and perhaps even different shock pistons, Once again, I hope this helps.

Thanks! Mugen's are nice buggies and I was just testing some pipes and roll'd footage for someone wanting to see a pipe he was considering for the same engine. This one is not blazing fast (I have to others that would smoke this when it comes to speed) but it handles like a dream, and most importantly can withstand my poor driving. You're not in to nitro I take it, eh?

Thanks. It's funny because I was going to get the 28-7 but based seeing as it was for a basher (Savage) he talkmed me in to the 28-5. Power is the same, but the 7-port is a bit smoother on top. I let him know I wanted his most powerful (and was prepared to convert it if needed) and he told me the 28 is his most powerful engine. It's beastly for sure. So much so, I don't think my Savage can handle it. The front will still lift 3/4 through the power-band and as much as I've tried to give it a 4WD effect, it's just too much.Neal wants me to do a standing back-flip and I tell you I think I can come very close if I set it up to do so. I'm not going to de-tune it or set it up incorrectly It's an incredible engine so will probably just throw it in truggy (I've run it once in truggy and it was flat-out scary. Not dismissing the clocked 28-5 for Savages (so relax if you're reading this buddy) ;-)...it's everything advertised then somHowever, I'm not so much in to speed runs than I am straight up bashing...For it to handle this vehicle in the manner I'd like, I'd have to re-engineer the vehicle. In other words it's being underutilized in the Savage. I wanted to go big, I did, but now think I'll go back the to the F4.6, which when properly tuned and paired up with a good pipe (I like the 053 with it) that engine) it can rock-n-roll a Savage for sure.

I run Protek 150T and 130s in my Mugen., Check out the specs on them against the price....can't go wrong. I have about 15 ProTek servos...they are quality servos.

There really is no best. It comes down to two things: 1) Your budget, and 2) Your driving style. Me personally, if I were going to buy a truggy right now it would the MBX7 T. Not because I have a Mugen buggy but simply impressive on paper. I've only seen a few at a track for brief periods, but doubt could go wrong. My second choice would be Serpent S811 T. Both those vehicles will set you back ~$1,200 assuming you need an engine/electronics, etc. Agama was mentioned above. I had an A8 buggy...and know some guys who rave about that truggy. Unaware of any RTR truggies other than the Trophy, but if Hobao makes one that would be my RTR recommendation.

Additionally with respect to setups, what should I expect from the Spider diffs? I've researched what I can but have not found much good information other than a lot of 'there just better'. I like to know what should be achieved vs standard. I tried smart diffs but did not get the results I'd hoped for so they are shelved. The center Spider diff I have is original (so it's been sitting for ~10 years. I guess it's okay to run as is? I'd like to try it first with stock grease just to run it as built, but imagine I will end up changing to diff oil for tuning purposes. Whose using Spider diffs and do you compare against standard? Thanks

I should have been more clear with terms. Bump steer is simply the toe angle changes on compression/decompression. All vehicles have some form of it. If you hit a 'bump' causing compression the toe angle will change. But inertia itself can cause it. It's occurs more than when just hitting bumps and it does not always turn. What's described above is an adverse affect, when in actuality you should be tuning vehicle for it. Put your Hyper 7 on a stand, and lift up the a-arms..while doing so watch the toe movement. It's typically a set-it and forget it thing...unless you change your suspension geometry you'll need to account for it. Some folks prefer toe out on compression and some 0 degree. Depending on the vehicle/setup. I prefer the latter as it stabilizes the vehicle coming off jumps. Regarding PBS vs C-Hub, I have multiple of both suspension types and lean partially toward c-hub. However, PBS does have advantages, from a setup perspective that require additional parts with c-hub (caster, track-width, rear toe), durability (fewer points of failure, less slop) and for straight up performance I find the steering tighter and smoother. However, I find with it being so adjustable you open yourself up to being tweaked if not careful...and it is significantly heavier (something not needed with the Hyper 7). And that PCR is amazing. I *think* they were released in 2005? I know two other guys that have one. Some of the design is a bit antiquated (i.e. hinge pins, shocks) but have had no problem at all with comparability (e.g. I prefer threaded hinge pins not just for additional durability but for tuning as well. I've not used the shocks yet but might try it out (you never know until you try). And finally, regarding engine power...this is beyond anything I've ever seen in a buggy. As I'm sure you and most other folks have, I've been around some pretty ruthless engines. I own several modded Novarossi's (.21, .25, and .28), I have stoclk power-houses (Roma, Bonito, Werks B5/B6), etc. Our old track had Xray factory guys and their engines were not stock (not often you see engines that are sealed off so you can't get in to them--ha ha)...and those sure do rock-n-roll. However, this OS25XZ in this Hyper 7 is the most intimidating thing I've ever witnessed in this hobby. Truly not trying to brag (I was shocked myself) just stating facts. When I first got it race tuned out front my wife came outside because she thought someone was riding a motorcycle up and down our street (and she hears all sorts of nitro engines. This, however, is unlike anything I've been around. It's a head-turner for sure. 100% of the time when first take the track there could be 20 other engines running, but people stop down with that 'What the heck is that look?'....then as it screaming like a banshee they see 'Hyper 7' on the wing...and then they know. However, I'm not taming the power. I'm harnessing it. Trust me I'm not one of these knuckle-dragging 'throw it around like a rag doll' guys....power to me is putting the vehicle where I want, when I want, and I'm getting damn close with this Hyper 7. I'm going on my first gallon of a clocked Nova 28 in my Savage...and am strongly considering taking it out as that is too much power (the truck is non-drivable at times)). While I love power, my preference is a smooth power band, very linear (I'm a mid-range guy). I run a clocked P5 with a high speed or all-around pipe. It's incredibly;smooth and predictable so it fits my Mugen well. 'm one of the rare who likes the B6/2058 better than the B5/2013 (I own and have raced both) and I like the former due to how smooth it is (but I love the snappy B5 too) ;-) Every vehicle has its style so to speak Mugen=Smooth, Losi=Active....After runt-time with this engine....Hyper 7=Powerful. ] So..believe it or not,.the Hyper 7 can handle this power , and absolutely I have to get creative with the setup...it's been interesting for sure, and I know I'm preaching the choir (I bet that Hyper 7 was a criminal with that 528 in it....nice). Dave Maslar's clutch setups have been invaluable (Buku speed tuned) as there are some instances where 3-shoe .90 heavy nylon is causing wheel spin. ;-) Videos truly do not do it justice....not in the least, however I have some track footage I'll share so folks can get a feel for it truly in its beast mode. For the record this OS is merely a stop-gap I decide on it's true race engine. Now...I know it can handle the silly stuff. The straight up stoopid power It will always run our most powerful engine...still unsure what it's race engine will be but it's be of the Spec II, Virtus ilk. Apologies for long rant, I get excited when I think about the Hyper 7. It's an underrated vehicle for sure, and I recommend it probably on a daily basis. No one I know has been let down by it. I wish it were more popular in the states

Assuming you mean issue #3? Theoretically I agree that loose on exit means not enough weight transferred rearward, which means stiff front/soft rear. However, in the situations I've tried that the front transfers so much to the rear that it lifts and unloads. This is why I'm thinking if I can get more forward grip I can square up better on exit, keep enough weight up front, an unload.It's like anti-squat. In this scenario do I increase or decrease (I've been told both). ;-( I think it depends on available traction (as most everything). If i need to plant the rear then let it squat, but if traction is available keep it up front for forward bite. Ugh. I'm getting a headache I'll check my notes from a 'stiffer front' setup. It's not a huge problem, but the most glaring right now. The buggy is over-powered, so Ifve been jumping through hoops to properly harness it. In the end it'll pay off. ;-) Hopefully today I'll get some run time and see what I come up with. I really believe (hope) more forward bite (which is extremely evident will fix, if not drastically help corner exit. Thanks again, this is good dialogue. Glad to be talking Hyper 7!

Thanks for the reply! I'll post up my biggest challenges with it serpately, but right now I'd say, in order: 1. Bumpsteer 2. Forward bite (thus the anti-squat). 3. Loose at mid-corner and corner exit. The engine is pretty villainous, and I've got it to where it will plant and thrust the vehicle. Now that I'm harnassing usable power and distributing it to wheels properly, I need really work on the weight distro. I have a list of things, but really the usual (less droop up front, longer rear link. more rear toe...blah blah. I personally think I need to spring balance. I tried the PBS up front but did not like it. I don't mind PBS (I race a Mugen that uses it)....but I like the c-hub design for this buggy better. Am going to try PBS in the rear. And yeah I've tried different sway bars....for a while I was running without one in the rear. It did give more grip up front which is what I was seeking, but all side-bite was gone. Now I've gone more stiff up front and thin in the rear. We'll see.,

Anthoop recommended some good items, and I agree that you should just run it. I tell folks all the time 'Give the vehicle what it needs...not what you want;' When I first got mine years ago I did the same thing...I stocked up on parts. The shiny'er and cooler looking they were all the better. 10+ gallons (of shear abuse) later most of those parts have yet to be opened. Don't get me wrong, I've upgraded mine to the nines, but's its been based on performance, not durability. If you really want a 'money no problem' upgrade list I'll send you everything I've done with mine (but it's part PBS, part Pro, part PCR, and part TQ Sport) so the list is quite long. If you want to get serious with it, upgrade the engine/pipe. I run an OS25xz-b with an 086. If you are considering engines I assure you a Vitrus will move it. I'm considering that or Spec II to replace the .25xz-b. As for clutches, I have Buku, M2C, VP Pro, and stock. The nylons are fine with the stock engine, IMO. Maybe spring up to 1.1. Servos, I run a 130T (388/.08). Serovs. 170T (630/.11) and 130S (260/.05). Yes, that is .05 seconds! I have one and it will basically move the servo faster than you can your hand. Then put it on a diet:.Lunsford buckles/rods, titanium hardware (most places), CF, anything and everything. As for parts I've broken during the years. One steering knuckle (upgraded to CNC ones). I slightly bent one dog bone, and an outter hinge pin slightly bent....I think that is it. Oh, I stripped the plastic servo horn after about five gallons. Replaced it with the OFNA clamp style horn. So best thing you can do...drive the hell out of it, maintain it (change bearings/or-rings/fluids) and ensure it's properly set up and not fighting itself. Good luck!

Congrats! and welcome to mafia (assuming it's your first Mugen). I run a 6R (with clocked P5/2058) and its monstrous., That 5TR is a very impressive looking engine. I know guys with some and they say they've never seen an engine hold its tune this well and will idle like no engine they've seen. What pipe? I've seen it rip with 9886/41001 and the 2099 so can recommend those two Post up some pics! BTW, if you are looking for aftermarket bodies the FTW Nightfox is pretty slick, IMO Much stronger than the Bitty Design too.

I've run mine without shims no problem.

Changed caster blocks and rebuilt center diff on my Hyper 7 Rebuilt center diff on Mugen MBX6R Tested out some pipes on my son's Losi 8ight 2.0 (with Werks B6). 053 vs 9886/41001. The 9886 blew the doors off the 053 but still prefer the 2058 with that B6. Rebuilt rear shocks on Losi 8ight 2.0 (#55 w/450ct is ticket). Bashed our Tamiya 801XT: truggies are aweome! Tomorrow we run hard (I didn't do all this work for nothing). Ha ha

Curious if anyone on here races their Hyper 7 still? I live in the states and it's extremely rare to see one racing here, but I'm building one that I know will compete with the MP9's, 8ight 3.0, MBX7's etc. There's little known about Hyper 7 setups as it hit the basher market, and prior to OFNA/Hobao did a poor job of documenting its racers setups and even the stock (even the setup sheets that did come with it were left blank). ;-) Below is my base setup, which of course changes depending on where it's being driven. I should also note I have a mix of Pro/PBS/PRC and TQ Sport parts. I'm curious as to what setups you guys like (does it differ radically from mine)? Ha (I'll list most all of them because everything counts) FRONT: Diff: 5k Ride Height 29mm Shock Oil: 35 wt Pistons: TQ Sport stock (4/1.5mm) Springs: Mugen 86/10.5 Lower Shock; 2 (In) Upper Shock: 2 (upper middle). I'm currently running the Pro front tower Toe: 0 Caster 20 Camber -1 Droop: 95mm (screw to screw). ~1/4 downtravel Upper link Tower: 1 (upper) Ackerman: Forward Sway Bar: 2.4mm CENTER: Diff (Standard): 8k Gearing 3:067 Clutch: I change this all the time but base setup is VP Pro 3-shoe alum .95 all around Brakes/Bias: Fiberglass, 60/40 REAR Diff: 3k Ride Height 31mm Shock Oil: 30 wt Pistons: TQ Sport stock (4/1.5mm) Springs: Mugen MBX5T (Light blue) 75/14.5 Lower Shock; 1 (Out)2 ( Upper Shock: 2 (upper middle). I'm currently running the Pro front tower Toe: -1.5??? Camber 0 Droop: 105mm (screw to screw) 1/2 down travel Upper link Tower: 1 (upper) Upper link hub: 1 (upper/in) Sway Bar: 1.4mm Wheele base: Long NOTEs: MBX6R shock shafts 7-L chassis (I love it) Mugen Standd-ffs Lipo flatback (rear mount) 388/.08 and 136/.07 steering/throttle respectivly. I believe the read toe is -1.5 but this is based on my (shady) RPM camber guage. With the older arms that allwo a ball mount it can be set, but with the newer style I believe the block is 1.5. Currently running the 7-L chassis, and I love it! PL High Downforce Wing Trying to find a way to set anti-squat Biggest challenge I have no is bump-steer. Of course much changes if it goes on a track (lighter oils, lower ride height, etc. Wanting to hear from you Hyper 7 guys. Also, if you're new don't let anyone tell you this is a sub-par buggy. You can make in to what you want. I turned mine in to a thug! ;-) http://youtu.be/xwdJHy4kwI4?t=3m26s

Hey all, I'm new to this forum and came across it googling some Hyper 7 information. I then took a deeper look and am thrilled with all the Hyper 7 activity going on here (I was wondering where everyone was). I think I might know a few of you on here, but please be kind to the newbie.;-) I'm still reading to see what vehicles a lot of you drive, but below is my current lineup: Mugen MBX6R: Clocked Novarossi P5/9886 (41001) Losi 8ight: 2.0 Werks B6/2058 Savage X 4.6: Clocked Novarossi 28-5/086 Tamiya 801XT: Novarossi Roma .25/2013 Losi 810: Stock/Stock (and bad to the bone) Losi Mini 8ight (black sheep of the family) I've owned other makes (Hot Bodies, Agama, etc.) but try to limit myself to no more than 10 vehicles at once. I hang on to all my engines though so have extras on the bench (Werks B5, Novarossi Bonito, lots of stockers) But I'm here to talk Hyper 7. Some quick specs of mine O.S. 25xz-b/086 VP Pro 3-shoe (I run Buku sometimes as well) ProTek 130T (355/.08) Savox 1257 (138/.07) Tires obviously vary but mainly run Impacts and Tazers My Hyper 7 started out as a TQ sport, but it is now one buggy using the best parts from the PBS, Pro, and PCR Pro. In fact last year I got what I believe was the last NIB PCR Pro (thanks to Bob Stormer). We all know how durable the Hyper 7, and while its bloodlines is in racing we also know it's lacking in certain areas when compared with today's top race machines. And? I'm getting my hooked and it already close to being on par with my Mugen. The PCR kit is amazing....so I'm going through every permuation to find the right setup for my driving style(aggressive and bad). Next step is to try PBS in rear and C-Hub (22) in front. Has anyone tried that? I look forward to talking Hyper 7 with you. I have lots of questions (I'll post those separately) and am becoming pretty intimate with the vehicle so can probably give back and provide help as well. We originally had the Hyper 7 as basher, but have been working toward getting it race-ready and it's there. We still bash it of course (the buggy does everything). Below is a video of mine in action,. I'll post some track vids soon as well. You gotta love the Hyper 7!