fornowagain

A few teething issues, its faster backwards than forwards. In fact it's mental, first time I gassed it in reverse it backflip on the spot and christened the shell. Hint, shake downs and first runs best done on grass, tarmac not so much. Anyway I had done all the usual, set the speeds 100% for both directions, calibrated the throttle range etc. Sod it, swapped the motor wires and reversing the tx fixed it. Noticed the gigante xl shell flexing inwards on a flip. The ESC is going to get bashed at some point so added a mini roll cage. Also swapped out the pivot bar on the rear deletes for some bolts. Quick release mount and some tie rods. M4 x 75 cut down to 60mm gives all solid diameter and no threads on the bushes/arms.

Shims normally. Don't know which bit you mean, as I've never seen one (use a CD)

ESC round the other way, tidied the wiring. Secured the connectors, made sure nothing can rub or touch the motor can. Replaced the tiny screws in the bumper, caps on the upper arm rods. Simple paint job, don

They won't bend easily, twice the material. Pretty cheap tools, nothing over a fiver each there. ps. You might want to edit out the images in the quote.

So another mod I wanted to try. The stock big bore shock shafts are only 3.5mm, a bit thin tbh. Other wise the big bore are fairly tough and seem well suited to the truck. So looked for a way to increase the shaft diameter, whilst keeping the extended and compressed lengths. Oh and using red springs for the extra weight it's carrying now. Cheap enough mod, about

The stock #86097 is steel (just not very good), but yeah the HD one #102514 is hardened and machined. Can't imagine anyone using the alloy #86097. like butter.

That looks far from fine.

you'll need a 3ch transmitter and a switch circuit to convert the pulse signal.

Lol, don't blame me. Onwards, some mods before bed time. Found these headlights with leds with lens that fit perfectly. Little notch to stop them turning. All running of the third RX channel, needs a small IC circuit hidden in the RX box. Works a treat.

They would have been the first Alza part I'd bought to be honest. Protects the bulkheads, strengthens the whole area.

Front and rears assembled. Again all fixings tapped to M4/M3 and stainless fitted. Alloy lower joint bar. RPM arms and Alza bulkhead brace conversion and upper arm brace. Used the optional -2 degree RPM arms. The RPM's are a royal pain to fit correctly. They bind, a lot, especially the upper arms. And the hing pins are too tight. Had to ream the 4mm arms pivots to size. Dremel clearance for the upper arms both ends. Some of the radii needed cleaning up to get a full range of movement without any sticking. Lower arms as well. Final result is no slop at all, smooth full range movement. Alza brace is superb. All very solid. Skidplates need a little modifying to clear the brace kit. First fit.

The pictures of the T6988 crank show the bearings, but then says some parts from the original will be needed, Odd's on it doesn't come with bearings, but I don't know. Skidplates, are the same yes. The plastic parts are perfect for absorbing impacts, I wouldn't use alloy there imo.

Blue only but on sale at Asiatees > http://www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-Savage-21-Parts-Hop-Ups&brand=HPI&model=Savage+21&id=86924

Erm, lets have a look... 6x10x3mm (4pcs) HPI ref B028 or B045, cheaper and better to get rubber sealed ones loose. Which kit did you get, maybe they have some already? The bearing are a hop up for a stock truck.

Front and rear bulkheads/towers. I'm not a fan of the HPI posi screws, so replaced everything with A4 stainless which is the strongest grade. The only place I wasn't confident on the stainless is on the M3 arm mounts for the big bores. So I used high tensile HT12.9 M3 cap heads which is the strongest possible. I've taken the tower top mount out to M4 to vastly increase strength. Used savage flux bulkheads for the composite material. Looked at alloy bulkheads, only ones I could find that allow use of flux/XL HD outdrives were FLM from the states. Not sure if they warrant the cost. Upgraded the 9/29 machined bullet proof diffs to use hardened gears and the Vorza diff housing. This removes the B032 10x16x5mm bearing for the stronger B085 8x16x5mm bearing. Shimmed diff assembly to suit the bulks, only needed two on the crown wheel side, one extra behind the pinion and heavy duty in cup to remove slop. Thought I had all the bits, gaskets etc. Assembled it with 60K front, 30K rear oil. Managed to overlook the M4 grub screws. For reference if you want upgrade the diff, here's that parts list. HPI101029 Differential Shaft (2), gear pins (2) HPI101142 Hard Differential Gear Set (6 gears, 4 shims) HPI101026 Differential Case Set HPI102692 Bulletproof Diff Set 29T/9T (if you don't have a donor diff) HPI86599 or 86099 gaskets HPIZ877 8mm shim HPIB085 8mm Bearings ( 2) HPI Z721 Grub Screw M4 x 4mm HPI 86248 Super Heavy Duty Diff Cups HPI 6811 O-rings 6x9.5x2mm (2) 4 off M3 x 15 CSK countersunk socket cap screws.

Yeah #102522 and some bearings. http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/102522

Lol I have one as well, Dejan chucked it in as a freebie on my last order.

You said you bought the tie brace, no? The Integy rear hub carrier (deletes) do away with the tie rods, so no need of the brace.

On to the electrics. Old style battery boxes, dremeled the cable slots and tabs, removed a couple of fins so they can mount backwards. Went with EC5 after a few Deans died on my sons car. Big old 8awg cables on the Turnigy's which is fine by me, but a tight fit in the solder cup. Mounting the ESC was interesting, thought about a plate, but went with two Alza cross braces. Clamped the plates together, and drilled the holes accurately on a mill. Same for the braces, ESC just screws in place. Which is all fine as long as it's the same ESC. Also I think the chassis really needs some reinforcement at the back on the XL extension. There's not much there otherwise, so needs a cross brace or two to make the frame rigid. Chopped off the 4mm banana plugs and fitted 6.5mm castles and EC5 to the ESC. Ended up fitting the ESC 180 degrees to this for a better fit. Still seems a bit vulnerable to me, thinking on some sort of roll cage over the ESC.

I've geared it for 45mph http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html Just to get started and see what the temps are like. I'm not looking for top end tbh, my lack of piloting skills and the weight of this thing could make for a deadly combination. Always a fan of before and after pics. Castor block, knuckles and rear deletes. Prefer alloy parts here for the bearing mounts, plastic for the arms and towers to allow some flexing. Some material milled off the back of the hexes and they fit well with the XL axels. Later in the build I lost a pin messing around, figured that would happen again so tapped one side and used M4 screw shafts. All pulled up tight, no end wobble. Spacer still able to turn a little to avoid pinching the bearings.

Thank you. So first test assembly, worried the CD gear would touch the skidplate and it does. Then I noticed two sets of mounting holes on the CD assembled, thinking this is a v2 here. Move it and it clears. The Alza rear dogbone for the XL build has no slop, the front had 4mm. So sized orings to remove all but a breath of slop.

First assembly of CD. Diff is from a Vorza. 50T pinion, hardened gears added and 500K oil. All fit brilliantly except, well known the can hits the outdrive cup with low enough pinion. This is 11/50. So milled off a flat on the motor. Then noticed the dogs touched as well, so they had a haircut. Tried the paper mesh, like it says in the manuals. Didn't like it, too much to my eye, set it by feel. Just enough play for good mesh and no pressure on the bearings. Went with cap head instead of button screws for the bigger allen size and red threadlock. Hardened gear, bit of git getting the grub screw run the length of the thread as they hadn't cleaned up the threads before heat treatment.

Hi, so just a few pics from my first real custom RC build. My son had a Savage XS for Christmas and we (me) had as much fun repairing it as we did bashing it. That I thought I'd build it a big brother from scratch so I can keep up with the little terror (my son not the XS). So no donor car, just gradually bought a load of bits and chucked them in a box. Ended up changing a few things as it went on, still not finished, very nearly done now though. It's all de-anodised back to alloy to remove the rainbow colour scheme I ended up with. So the spec: Alza Center Differential Kit inc front dogbone Alza Front/Rear Bulkhead Brace conversion Alza Servo plate Alza FLUX XL Chassis 5mm Alza Skidplate XL Alza XL Rear dogbone Alza Upper arm brace Alza F/R Chassis brace Hobbywing Quicrun 8BL150 Waterproof ESC 6s Savox SW-1210SG Waterproof Digital Servo Castle 1717 motor 1650kV Novak 5mm Mod 1 Hard Pinion Gear 9/10/11 Castle 6.5mm connectors EC5 battery connectors 2x Turnigy 5000mAh 3S 40C Lipo Traxxas #2407 Waterproof receiver box FLYSKY 3CH FS-GT3C Tx/Rx Various A4 Stainless M4/M3, M3 12.9 HT Cap heads Various bearings, oil etc Integy Savage Heavy Duty Rear Hub Carrier #T6979 Integy Caster Block #T6984 Integy Steering Knuckle #T6721 RPM A-Arms Left Front/Right Rear #82012 RPM A-Arms Right Front/Left Rear #82002 ProLine Big Joe II 3.8 Tyres Proline Black F-11

Can you get some power on the fan header direct just to prove it spins up?

I'm a great believer in the right tool for the right job. I have a digital soldering iron for IC work, very small bits etc. A Weller W100 series with magnastat temp controlled, brilliant for large jobs as it will keep pumping heat but won't overtemp and damage the bit. The Weller is as old as me, belonged to my dad. Solder, I've always used RS components multicore leaded solder, has the flux built in and flows brilliantly. I'll throw in one suggestion if you're not using the iron much and want to get some use from it. Take a look at a Dremel VersaTip, it's a gas torch that come with various bits. I recently bought one and found it very useful, it has a good range of control. Easily powerful enough for largest gauge wire and EC5 connectors and you can swap the tip and use it as a warm air blower for heatshrink, or swap the tip for a plastic cutter and make nice clean cuts on cable wrap. Works well.