fornowagain

So worth changing the steering servo saver inc crank or just the floppy crank? Looking at these caps. Motor mount

Ok once again. Have an YXL kit incoming, ordered a QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 & Castle 1515. Looking at a Savox SV-1270TG for a water-proof ish 400oz servo. Apart from the Hot Racing YEX4801 steering bellcrank, anything else a must to fit from the get go for durability? I'd read a few people had damaged the shock towers and shock caps were a bit weak.

Off to the other thread

Have an YXL kit incoming, ordered a QUICRUN-WP-8BL150 & Castle 1515. Looking at a Savox SV-1270TG for a water-proof ish 400oz servo. Apart from the Hot Racing YEX4801 steering bellcrank, anything else a must to fit from the get go for durability? I'd read a few people had damaged the shock towers and shock caps were a bit weak. Would it be better to start an owners thread for the YXL in rock crawlers?

Yeah the clips means no velcro, but you'd need the newer version. Not looking to split, once the postage is done might as well give it all away. Don't you need some spare arms? It's a bargain for new bits.

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Servo's are usually M2.6 x 8mm, Savox are bigger I believe at M3 x 8

Power HD LF20, 25t 20kg

Which bit is broken. Coils intact?

Yeah as do I, its just that I'm used to HW ESC's needing lower settings than the actual. I'd normally aim for 3.4v, makes little difference to the run time from 3.2v, once the voltage starts to drop off. So no point going lower. Have to say I was surprised the lvc was spot on.

Just a quick report back, first full pack(s) through it on a local playing field with a jump or two. Behaves brilliantly, nothing broke or fell off, kinda pleased with that. Got around 30mins, quite a bit on full throttle. Wheelies on command even at speed, quick pulse and up it goes. Have to build up speed slowly, if you gun it, it just flips over backwards. Braking is way too powerful, flips forward over itself half a dozen times. On the ESC, lvc is set to 3.2v, cell voltages all at or slightly below 3.2v once it cut in. It only did that once, a reset turn on/off got a couple of seconds then lvc cut in again. So working as it should. Oh, and the ESC, motor are barely warm to the touch as you'd expect really with the gearing. I don't think I'll be gearing it any higher. It's plenty fast enough if overpowered. Its fun that way and more a matter of throttle control than actually having too much power. Overall it's a lot of fun and the center diff does help lay the power down nicely. The shell is already cracked in three places, won't last more than a few sessions, so looking at fitting a Summit shell with exo-cage.

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Charged on a woven glass fabric mat, stored in an ammo box.

Make sure those purple spacers there can still turn a wee bit with the hexes done up tight, otherwise your new bearings won't last long.

There's two versions of the battery box on the savage flux. The early one's had rubber catches, the revised version has holes in the top for rotating clips and mounts that accept the plastic straps.

Price drop.

There you go, from the man himself.

I don't have a slipper to be accurate, but looking at the assembly diagram you have a hex washer then a spring then an M4 nyloc? I would say remove the spring and replace its length with m4 washers until the nyloc pulls down tight, not too tight as it's clamping down on a shaft pin. Or if there's enough thread just keep running the nyloc up. Make sure everything clears the hex part of the shaft.

HPI SAVAGE Flux/XL/4.6/2350 All parts new and unused taken from dismantled truck. 1. 2x Cup Joint 8x19mm 2pcs #86083 2. Front and rear arm brace set #86070 3. Steering Spring #86319 4. 2x Lower Bulkhead braces #102272 5. 4x Battery box straps and top clips. Fits revised Flux battery box only. 6. 4x Upper/Lower Arm & Upright set assembled. Includes pins, eclips etc. L&R F&R. #85048 #85238 7. 2x Heavy Duty Turnbuckle #93535 #100949 8. 2 x Heavy Duty Diff - CASE/GEARS/SHAFTS #86827 #86032 #87194. Needed if you've stripped internal diff gears in a Flux HP or XL. Or upgrading an older truck. Not a complete differential, but includes the alloy case, full set of 4 bevel gears with shims/pins, B032 bearing (2 shims) and 2 shafts. Not splitting.

Is it 4s or 6s, what's the cell count set to?

Yeah I pointed that out, he wasn't impressed lol. At least I can give him some competition now.

Not yet. What batteries and settings are you using?

My contribution. And my sons.

The ESC comes with M3 tapped threads in the bottom. I machined holes in two cross members and bolted it down with some rubber washers inbetween. 6s from the start. Thought about dual shocks, also irc etc. It all adds weight, the stock big bore are actually pretty good, just need stronger (hellfire) springs and thicker shafts. It's now on red springs 196GF/mm, stock are pink 134GF/mm.

That's the one on mine, be aware you can only program it with the led box. The LCD/PC box doesn't work, yet. I'm guessing there will be an firmware update eventually. Paid