fornowagain

Just gives it that pro look I reckon.

The bulkhead one's have cutouts to clear moving steering parts and have threads for the fixings that come up from the underside. The other braces are just plain lengths. But yeah got to be same length. Btw, the cable braiding is also on the bay, loads of widths. One tip is to seal the end with a lighter to stop it fraying out and then put some heat-shrink over the end once it's on the cable to stop it fraying, keeps it in place and makes it look tidy.

Definitely, I wouldn't jump it hard till you strengthen it a bit, in case it bends. You can buy alloy replacements for the lower bulkhead plastic braces (with the steering cutout) on ebay. The Alza braces are 7x8.2x74mm with M4 tapped in the ends, there's a similar HPI part #86063.

It's fine, a perfect match for something like a Castle 1512-2650kv or 1515-2200kv 120A.

Yeah you've done a grand job. Have a look it's in my sig for some pics. I noticed the frame with standard parts isn't that rigid and would twist quite easily, down to its length I guess. So I replaced the plastic bulkhead spars with alloy. Used the servo plate which has two extra braces and added two more braces at the back and top. Along with the center diff frame which is like a roll cage in the middle. If you look at the motor plate, I think I'm right in saying the braces run along the sides and don't span across. Ignoring the plastic which flexes, you end up with a structure like a box without a lid. You leave a 4mm gap from the bottom of the spring collar to the plate and go from there.

It's alive Just a suggestion, but maybe look at the bracing? The rx box, gearbox and 2 bulkhead lower plate braces (HPI102272) are all plastic. For metal it's the joint posts, two skidplate cross-members and the motor plate? If you ignore the plastic parts, there's some structural voids front and back and higher up that could do with some metal bracing to help keep the chassis rigid and stop it twisting.

It's a rebadged Castle MMM, so 120A

You'll just use the original steering post, it the bit with a hex head on one end and the thread with spring & collar on the other, 4mm thread showing with compressed spring. The other post looks different, it's just shorter is all, bearing is further up.

It's just that when something fails unexpectedly in the same place more than once, then there maybe an underlying cause. Look for things like a raised edge on the outdrive cup pin hole, worn bearing or wear on the gear side diff housing. Anything really. Make sure it's the right pin though, wrong one wouldn't last long. I'd take it as an opportunity to really bullet proof the diff with a vorza cup, hardened gears etc, get rid of the thin 10mm bearing. I'll leave the part numbers in case you need them.

RPM do, 0 & -2 degree camber.

Has this same diff snapped more than one pin?

What are you using it for? You could run 4s with a xerun 4168 2250kv,13t pinion to start. Bit a handful I would think. More controllable, I would have said a castle 1512 1800kv for 80A/4S but they're discontinued. Struggling to find much to suit only 80A esc on 1/8.

Xerun 80A 4s max. What battery do you want to use? Sensored or sensorless?

Yeah that's the one.

I've bought quite a few combos form China, HK. No fakes yet, just be careful, read the feedback and descriptions. I have 1515/8BL150 combo incoming from the seller below. He has the OP's 1512 for

All sold.

Sorry mate, cant go any lower. I'll PM a suggestion.

Stick to IPA, it's the least reactive solvent with plastics around, pretty much inert but gets most glues off etc. (except acrylic (perspex), I keep adding that because it spectacular when they meet) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/500-ML-BOTTLE-OF-CLEANING-SOLUTION-IPA-ISOPROPANOL-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-99-9-PURE-/321104758406?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ac355c686

If you visit Hobbyking you can search by size using the Lipo Finder for the highest capacity. If you use the .com site hang around a bit and it'll offer a discount, they have a UK warehouse.

Degreaser? Couldn't resist. I always use a little tub of IPA (Iso-Propyl Alcohol) which is safe to use around plastics except acrylic.

Just playing devils advocate, but just because it says you can use 3s doesn't mean you should. Came with a 7.2v Ni-MH? A 3s lipo is quite a big step up and will soon find any weak spots. Not what you asked I know, don't mind me. Pretty much any 3s lipo will do, if it will fit, the discharge rate on that won't challenge low C packs.

You want to try some 641 retaining compound. Works better than threadlock on hexes, large course threads. It's designed to remove the wobble on loose bearings etc, sets hard but splinters off when you crack the thread.

As I said, once it set. Watch it flow correctly, it should be sucked into the joint then stop once it's full. Any more and it'll over flow. It should look even, nice and shiny, you can easily tell a cold joint they look matt or flat. As soon as I can, if I'm protecting a delicate board I'm going to blow on it to reduce the temp asap. You can also use some damp tissue wrapped around the cable to reduce transfer. Oh and use a low melting point multicore solder. I'm still using lead/tin, got some huge rolls of the old RS stuff, really nice. I would recommend some practise goes if it's all new to you. I don't really use soldering irons much any more, I have a hot air rework station for surface mount repairs that works surprising well on connectors. For irons, I'm a big fan the old fashioned Weller Magnastat design. It maintains the tip temp by varying the power, rather than just overheating the bit, saves on melted connectors..

It can do. Depends on a lot of things. Cable length, time being the main one. Surprising how far heat can travel up a cable. For a new connection. Get the wire end and the solder part ready first. Pre-tin the wire with solder+flux, same for the connector. Pre-position everything, make good contact, no gaps, so use helping hands or pin it all down. I was always taught a good mechanical connection first, then electrical. So wire twists and winding posts etc. Anyway, you want to heat it up locally as fast you can and until the solder melts then gently feed in some more until full, then stop the heat. Wait a sec till it sets and cool it. Blow on it or wet it. A good solder joint should take just seconds, if you're on there ages you're doing it wrong.

Yeah you plug it in one of the spare connectors, just shorts it out. Personally I'd modify it for its main use to keep it tidy. With a single deans, you can always use a serial cable to go back to two packs. P.S. no need to cut them, just get them hot enough and break the solder joint.