dazp1976
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Posts posted by dazp1976
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On 17/11/2021 at 10:08, UKRobster said:
Had a Lipo puff up last night, just wanted to remind others of the potential volatility of these batteries.
Store them in the garage and obviously its started dropping in temps now were in the middle of November. Although living in the South West it's not too cold yet!
Forecast for today is dry so, hoping to get out for a quick bash at lunch time.
Fetched the lipo's out of the garage yesterday evening and let them sit in the house for about 45 mins to an hour before plugging the first one in. The first one has puffed after a 40 min charge, then plugged the 2nd in straight after and that one is fine. So I reckon they needed to be in the house for a good couple of hours before charging.
That's the only difference between the 2 batteries. Both were storage charged about 3 weeks ago and been in garage since then. Have had the same amount of charges and they're only 3 months old. Absima 3S 6200 mAh 60C. Will be dumping into a bucket of salt (sea) water later.
For anyone else that stores them in the garage just be warned to do the same thing! Let them come up to room temperature for at least a couple of hours.I also had this happen.
But....
Nothing to do with the cold. It was ran too hard on the previous use.
Yes they do say that cold is not good for them but mainly if temps are in the minus figures.
I wouldn't store them outside in winter myself. Mine are lipo bagged inside buscuit tins in a cupboard.
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On 20/10/2021 at 19:00, Nitroholic said:
a hot motor is usually a gearing issue..... but if the motor was hot, not the ESC....then the ESC was fine.
Unless you are permanently running on a grass field.
I generally have to drop about 5 teeth on the pinny if I come off the black stuff onto the grass.
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Worth keeping an eye on:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165145111174?hash=item26736a6a86:g:1jMAAOSwav1hdBZh
I usually get mine off ebay.
Either new or new unopened. Never had trouble with use however if withing last 4-6 years dated.
WD all the way. Black or purple.
I've a 2015 6tb purple in a media player. On nearly 24/7.
(reds tend to be 5400) great for storing media though.
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I charge loads at a time.
If I don't use them within 24hrs I discharge them again to 50% and store.
They've lasted well.
If you run them hard when low so they drop below 3.2v they will bite you.
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On 05/06/2021 at 15:03, MrCake said:
In theory GT85/WD40 silicon should be fairly safe to any rubber shielded bearings (so I have been told).
I also like how 'new' silicon based spray leaves the plastics looking but that is me. Some of the cars I see in this forum make me twitch when I see how dirty they are left 🤣
WD40 dries the bearings out. Also it attracts dust/dirt.
Use GT85 on metal parts all the way. Also doesn't attract dust/dirt.
Silicone on plastics only.
These are from experience with industrial automated machinery.
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On 30/05/2021 at 12:45, eddywatson said:
Hey guys I am thinking of getting the Overlander D100 V2
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/overlander-d100-v2-acdc-dual-balance-charger-discharger-power-supply-433878
Along with x2:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/overlander-sport-111v-5000mah-35c-lipo-pack-with-ec5-407283
But I had a few questions:
1. Are they compatible?
2. After use do I need to discharge the batteries?
3. What settings/amps do I use to charge?4. Can I charge both batteries at the same time?
5.How long will the batteries take to charge
Thanks for your timeDon't waste your money on that p.o.s.
It only handles 50w per channel on AC power input, it's MISLEADING!.
If you try to charge at 1C it will max out at 4.5A on those batteries and will likely last you a few weeks if that.
Ohms law suggests you want 55.5w each for those batteries + 10% for efficiency losses.
Buy this instead:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363400477739?epid=7038996278&hash=item549c5b3c2b:g:Vr0AAOSw5NVgu58k
Does 130w per channel on both AC & DC.
Capable of charging up to 4 of thosse 3s lipo's at once if needed!.
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What's the point of this charger?
It is MISLEADING!.
Can only charge at 50w per channel on AC mains.
Will only just about handle those batteries at 1C.
You can get an Imax B6AC 50w for <£25. (£50 for 2).
Overlander only does 100w pc with a seperate psu unit.
Expensive for what it is afaic!!!.
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On 01/05/2021 at 12:19, capri-boy said:
Fitted my last aftermarket in-racing motor mount to a Hong Nor X1 CR Pro that's on the bench for conversion and refurbishment. Already run a similar buggy as my daily driver (or quarterly as seemed to be the case last year 😞 ) so not sure what'll happen with this. Mounted it opposite the option part Hong nor alu diff support.
Fitted your last?.
Why?. Do you keep breaking them?.
If you have a broken one (or any other metal bits) that's measurable / copyable. I might take a look at it.
A couple of months and my new cnc project should be finished, or close to it.
Been out of rc (and most things) for a long while lately (medical).
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On 07/08/2020 at 23:49, joe grinstead said:
Hey there fellow trophy owners, I am new to the hobby and recently bought an hpi trophy 3.5. My current problem is the front drive shaft(dogbone)? Keeps popping out of the cup?is this a fitment issue or likely a broken part is this a common issue? Thanks in advance 👍
That's a new one on me for the fronts! Normally only the rears.
Is it used or new?
If used then it may have different ones in off another buggy.
Try limiting your suspension travel using the grub screws in the arms so they don't lower too far down (droop)
I'd suggest trying the vorza cvd's if all else fails. They are 92mm length. The trophy are 91mm.
I'll see if I still have both around and look at the lengths.
You can get just the shafts for those Vorza ones too BUT the axles are smaller so have to buy the entire units first off as you can't mix/match the 2 joints.
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11 hours ago, rockerlee said:
I think that was 1 of the first upgrades I did on my tt then the servo.
Yep the difference is huge.
I've found a complete set.
Not that cheap anymore but I'd say it's worth it for the difference and the lifespan:
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2 hours ago, Dawesy said:
Hey mate it’s what the car came with - I’d only had it 2 weeks when this happened. I’d considered upgrading to a 3 shoe later down the line when needed...I mentioned earlier that I’d contacted HPI and that I thought they were simply giving me a parts list; I take that back. The nice man (or woman) I’ve been dealing with via email was simply stating all the parts, asking me to check further, as they have confirmed that the incorrect bearing was installed from factory, this has caused damage to the clutch bell, flywheel, potentially spur gear and the cone spacer behind the fly (which was causing the untrue run out), not the crank...
He’s putting through a warrantee claim, and sending me the replacement parts free of charges.
My faith has been restored in HPI, I didn’t expect even a response, but to admit full liability, help me assess the parts for potential damage and then (I assume) send me the replacement parts is stellar service in my opinion!
Cant wait time get this back bashing!
thanks J
If you get anymore grief once it's 'fixed' change to the 3 shoe from HB racing. They're great.
3 shoe Clutch system:
#67525 - Flywheel (3pins/Black)
#101199 - RACING CLUTCH SHOES (3PCS)
#101201 - RACING CLUTCH SPRINGS (3PCS)
#HBC8059 - FLYWHEEL NUT (LIGHTNING SERIES)
#B121 or #B021 (or similar) Ball bearing 5x10x4mm
Or optional 3 shoe springs
#67220 - Clutch Springs (1.1mm/3pcs) for later clutch release at higher rpm.
Optional alloy 3 shoes
#101778 - ALUM. RACING CLUTCH SHOES GUNMETAL (3PCS)
If you then need instructions on how to fit them go here:
https://hbracing.com/en/downloads-en/
Scroll down to the D8T 1/8 Nitro Off-Road 4WD Truggy instruction manual
It should be on page 36.
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I sold my main used Flux one and kept the one that was/is still being rebuilt. Haven't used it for around 2 years at least. Been busy messing with a new cnc mill conversion.
I must check my Lipo's and hope they aren't knackered from being in storage for so long! 😟
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In my opinion:
I'd leave it as is myself. MT's have reduction gearboxes for a reason. Burned several motors when I went to a cd on a MGT.
I'd just figure out which is best to elongate, chassis or mount so it slides a little and nut/bolt it down when in position.
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Aren't you over thinking it? Don't you just divide the ring by the pinion in a drive diff & the spur by the pinion, Then multiply?
Say you used a 15T pinion don't you just go:
29/9= 3.22222:1
46/15= 3.0667:1
Then times the 2 together giving a final drive of: 9.881:1
Bit quick for a MT like that I feel.
I burned a couple of motors in the past on a MGT with a CD conversion.
Why do you think they come with reduction gear boxes.
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16 hours ago, stonedef said:
I went to fit the new rear wing to the Outcast and found the rear brace stop broken
So I thought that would be a good excuse to buy a Voltage Hobbies alloy one but they want $47 delivery for a $22.95 part 
The Voltage Hobbies one looks a little complicated for me to do. I could've had a go though if I had the broke bits.
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There was one I had (metal to metal s&p) where the spur was damaging. Turned out the pinion was at fault. Teeth were really sharp and digging in on the spur wrecking it.
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44 minutes ago, jamesp2812 said:
I run a xbox original power brick converted to run my imax b6 balance charger.
Sent from my LLD-L31 using Tapatalk
Would take at least 2 hrs 30 mins for a 5000mah 6s lipo though on a B6.
But yes the xbox mod works well. Best one to use is the 203w version or higher hooked up to 2 of the 80w Turnigy chargers.
Still borderline for 1C on higher capacity 4s and too under par for 6s. For those you want at least the 150w Turnigy
Need some confidence to hack the brick, relatively simple but some are not keen to do it.
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I wish they'd put it back how it was about 2 years ago. The new changes made since back then have done it no favors.
But I'm one of these that don't like change
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13 minutes ago, Mike_J_Smith said:
It was from one of the links in your post; 12v 600w 50A.
the AR1 is 11-18v input, I couldn’t find a similar 18v psu. Hopefully 12v should be fine. Would I be right in thinking I could hook up two chargers to that PSU (provided there are enough connectors at the back)? So I could get a 100-150w one as well for smaller tasks.
Or I could upgrade to a beefier one in the future. Anyway, this was cheapest option all round and should do what I need for the foreseeable future.
Ah different charger to the one I saw earlier then. I've only seen the expensive power supplies give out up to 18v.
You can put a few chargers on that supply.
Basically with the 12v 50A 600w unit You could borderline have 4 chargers doing a 6s each. (22.2*20A= 444w+10%= 485w 22A.
I would stick with up to a maximum of 3 though, the more chargers the more the efficiency loss.
But that's based on 6s which is 18 cells (3 lipo's). Could comfortably do 5*4s batteries (20 cells) on 2-3 chargers with that supply. Should last you well
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2 hours ago, QRC said:
I am talking about any cloned or copied chargers/PSU. Not worth the risk, have seen the aftermath of dodgy electronic equipment, not good.?
This is in my opinion and from personal experience.
They're all copies of each other these days.
My Turnigy 1000w is exactly the same as the Skyrc and the Hyperion equivalent. Cost me £50 new and is 4 years old now.
The Hyperion is £150, big difference.
I think my good life span is down to only using 50% of it's capacity. It's when you run them flat out you get problems.
I have an expensive Chargery S1500 power supply to run it because back then I didn't know about the ebay ones.
I would have no worries about using one of those 24v 1000w ebay jobs for power as I have 2* 36v 350w units running the small cnc mill.
Best advice from me if you're looking at the cheaper alternatives/copies would be:
1. Work out what your batteries would require using the ohms law formula to charge at 1C.
2. Double the figure you got from it.
3. Look for a charger capable of that figure.
4. If it needs a separate psu then go at least 20% bigger than the charger.
For example using 6s
1. A single 6s 5000mah needs (22.2v*5A=111+10%= 122.1w @ 5.5A
2. *2 gives you 244w 11A.
3. Look for at least 250w 11A
4. +20% = 300w 13A+ psu
To parallel 2 of them double it again to #3. 500w 22A & #4. 600w 26A.
Using 4s
1. 14.8v*5A=74w 5A+10%= 81.4w 5.5A
2. *2 gives you 163w 11A
3. Look for one at least the above figure (a 150w will do in this case)
4. +20% = 196w 13A
Double again to parallel 2 of them.
The Amp outputs are a rough guide because at those wattage's equipment has generally higher Amperage outputs anyway.
As long as you don't go lower than the figures suggested.
You'll be running at 50% and will last well.
One other thing is chargers have mostly popped caps etc on discharge. Best to use max 75% of it's potential, discharge in the vehicle or make a halogen light box with a lipo alarm fitted.
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4 hours ago, Guns said:
I run this
300w 20A and Ac/DC. You'll need to buy UK kettle plug for a few quid as it comes with a UK one.
Then get the relevant balance board. and charge in Parallel.4 hours ago, Guns said:Jesus!! Horizon have ruined everything with their price changes! I paid £157 for my one of those about 2 years ago!
It's mental!!!! If I ever got rid of most of my stuff the charge gear is still staying just in case. Would cost me about £400 for the same gear now. I paid about £260. It's now 4 years old.
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33 minutes ago, Mike_J_Smith said:
Thanks for all the replies.
On the basis that if I overthink things it'll take ages, I've bought the charger from the guy selling one on here (EV-Peak AR1) and ordered a 600W PSU off ebay, that way I can upgrade in the future and do everything I need to do now.
Is that the 500w 25A jobbie?
Should do the business. Have you checked the AR1's input voltage?
Is it one that can take up to 32v?
If it's anything like my Turnigy, if you use a 12v supply the charger limits itself to only having half it's full power available.
It'll still do the job on a 6s lipo or 2 though
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10 minutes ago, Mike_J_Smith said:
One more question, can the EV-Peak "copy" of the prophet sport do everything it claims to from AC, or will it need a DC power supply as well?
As far as I'm aware it has a 500w AC psu built in to it the same as the prophet. It should be able to manage no problem with one that size in it.
In normal practice you get a 10% efficiency loss while charging so one would assume the extra 100w built in is to cover that loss.
Downside is that one has an EU plug
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3 minutes ago, Mike_J_Smith said:
Too many options!
For the second one, could I parallel charge on that? There is one for sale on the forum, but with a 200W power supply which I don't think is enough? But I could get the power supply you mentioned and use that.
What is a regenerative function?! Lol - I have no idea what I'm doing here!
I like the simplicity of the all in one though; a bit ouchy on price but i guess it's all roughly the same ballpark.
Yes you can parallel on the second one.
Regenerative is for discharging. Normally when discharging you are limited by the chargers ability to take it through the psu etc.
With regenerative you can hook up a big 12v car battery that is part charged and discharge into that. It quadruples and more the amount of watts/amps you can discharge at.
HPI Trophy Truggy / Buggy Flux bible.
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Posted
I have the GPM alloy holders on mine. Also have the hinge pins off the D812. I don't think I've ran mine for about 4 years now though!.