allan1010

Yep, IIRC the ONLY standard largescale offroader 4x4 although a Marder 4x4 conversion kit is available.

Twice the distance from the centre to either one of the ends.

I don't think gearing would have the effect you're getting. For one thing, as long as the motor was getting power it would run AT LEAST as fast as it did at the half-throttle point where you say the trouble begins. To check this, pick the truck off the ground and get somebody to hold it up for you (keep fingers, clothes etc away from the wheels!) and try again. I suspect you're not getting power to the motor past half throttle. Next thing to try is using a couple of bits of wire to connect the battery straight to the motor. Be very careful not to short them out, again make sure the wheels are off the ground. It SHOULD scream it's head off; at LEAST twice the speed it was running when the ESC was connected. Be aware the motor will start immediately and at max speed! If you find you have a faulty ESC, which is not impossible (I'm busy returning a brand-new Mtroniks failsafe that doesn't seem to work) then speak to the store you bought it from and see if they can talk you through a fix or change it for a new one.

If you're finding the factory settings too lean I think you might have an air leak in the intake somewhere. Especially if it idles way too high as well. The most comon culprit is a bad seal between carb & engine.

Don't worry about it. It'll happen whenever you ask anybody their opinion about anything they believe strongly in, it doesn't just happen in fuel discussions LOL TDC is top dead centre; the point in the engine's cycle where it stops going up and starts coming down. Even running flat-out your piston is actually standing still at this point for a few milliseconds, as it changes from upward movement to downward movement!!

Looks legal to me. While the MOT tester's manual isn't the same as the Road traffic Act Construction & Use regulations, it's very rare for a vehicle with missing or incorrectly fitted parts to be able to pass an MOT. This makes the testers' manual a good guide to what's legal and what's not. There's also some surprising stuff in there. Here's the brake lights section: http://www.ukmot.com/1-3.asp

I wouldn't have thought so, they knew about it all along: "Cisco said Apple had approached the company a number of times over the past few years about a licensing agreement to use the name, and that the talks heated up in the past few weeks."

Everybody ALWAYS ha something up their sleeve, that's the way the industry works. But you'll only notice it if it's something that grabs your interest!

With your offroad car, the type of speed controller depends on what's under the board that we can't see. If it's microswitches then it'll just be off and on, activated by servos with forward & reverse handled by the different microswitches. If that's what you've got then it's working fine. Mostly this setup was used on 1:10 scale indoor on-road electrics because on and off as about all you needed from the throttle; they handled like they were glued down with tracks made from carpet, and foam tyres! However, from the look of it I think you have a resistor type. If you have resistors under there then it's a type known as a "Bob's Board" or a wiper board. Should be 3 speeds, forward & reverse, IIRC. If that's the case then it isn't working properly and the resistors might be burned out, otherwise it might just be corrosion or a loose contact at the "wiper". If you have a meter, check the resisitance at each stage of throttle, you should see 3 steps with virtually zero at full throttle. The resistors are dirt-cheap and easy to solder in, otherwise treat yourself to a new Bob's board (if you can still get them) or remove it and put in a cheap electronic speed controller.

I've just measured my XDA exec and it's a hair over 5" long by 3 1/4" wide. It fits into the pockets of every single pair of pants I own.

This one's an XDA exec on O2. last one was an XDA 2I. Lives in my pocket without a problem but it is a big phone. That said I've had mobiles since 1988 and it's only about 5 mm bigger then an old Nokia 2110 and probably about the same weight. Only downside is the weight, it keeps dragging me pants down unless I wear a belt LOL

I don't think so. They're beadlocks so he wouldn't have needed to glue the tyres on if that was them. I'd never seen Marder wheels with beadlocks before.

Good luck. Modelsport seem pretty good with stuff like that: I had missing parts which they sent straight away, now I have to return a servo and failsafe which they seem hapy to take back and check out.

I'm on my 4th pda/phone, the 3rd with touch screen (12 month contracts) and the screens don't get scratched up. They're far more scratch resistant than the polycarbonate used in normal phone screens. And it gets some serious use, 1,000 mins/month, several megs of data and unlimited wifi means the screen gets prodded and written on for a good couple of hours each day. BUT If you ever get a scratched screen you can polish the scratch out with aluminium cleaner like Solvol Autosol or Flitz, no problem! All my used phones go on ebay at 12 months old looking like they're brand new having lived in my work trouser pocket for a year, been bounced around in an artic and left lying on the trailer in steelworks etc. They're very durable.

So neither channel on the receiver works? Pull the receiver, steering servo, esc & motor out of the car and test it on the bench. If one channel works, swap whatever was on channel 1 & 2 and see if the fault moves as well. If it does, whatever was connected to that channel has a fault. If the fault moves when you swap channels (ie if it was the esc not working and now it does but the steering servo has just gone off) then the receiver is bad. can you get a spare receiver from a mate to test it with? Do you have a failsafe built in, or separate or not at all?

I'm glad I checked here, I was going to ring Modelsport tomorrow. I have the Mtronics and had a problem where it goes into failsafe mode at about 1 minute's use & the throttle/brake servo stopped responding. Turn the Rx off & on again and it works for another minute. Take the failsafe out and it works perfectly. Sounds like it'll be going back to Otley then :-(

ROTFLMAO "Suggest reading the threads in future" What a laugh. Go on, read it again yourself. NOWHERE did you suggest checking the polarity. Your comment was very clear and suggested reading the voltage on a voltmeter, not a multimeter and while, by extension this would indicate polarity you didn't mention it except as an afterthought to contradict me. So YOU pipe down. SHEESH

But that would be useless as the advice was to determine the size & capacity of the battery. The residual voltage of a totally flat, kn@ckered pack wouldn't tell him anything. However the info. printed on the battery would! It's a 9.6V, 700mAH NiCad and if you look at the heatshrink you can see it's made of 8 cells which would confirm that. I'm with hpi_matrix_stock on the advice; go to maplins and pick up a charger that's good for 8 cell nicads and also buy the right plug when you're there so you can make your own charger lead. Ramming charger leads into the battery might cause a short if left unattended. Also remember nicads are easily damaged by overcharging and can suffer from memory effect so it might take a few full charge-discharge cycles to get decent life back into your battery.

It happened to me too a few years back. It's all to do with banking regulations and the red tape they have to go through mainly to prevent money laundering and to make it easier for the taxman to keep an eye on your income and outgoings.

Spit works too! If you haven't got a can of WD handy.