Ben Willis

I've never heard of fuel coolers, but I can't see that cooling the gas coming from the exhaust into the fuel tank is going to have any effect whatsoever, as pressure systems in the engine are designed to pull fuel from the tank, so when it is running the positive pressure going into the tank from the exhaust is doing nothing. My understanding is that the tube between the tank and the exhaust is only needed for priming when the engine can't pull fuel and it needs the positive pressure, which is why you need to put your finger over the exhaust... And once you've used a tank of fuel and refilled and are ready to prime it again, the engine and exhaust are so efficient at shifting heat that cooling it will not have much effect... I may have the wrong end of the stick here with my physics knowledge so I apologise if I'm wrong, but my opinion would be not to bother as it sounds like a money sucking gimmick that is just more to go wrong Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, thanks for that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just one question, would it be possible to remove the remote starter and put a pull start in, simply because it would save weight...?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so having had a look at the Losi I am beginning to lean towards that, since its only

Okay, I'll add that to my list as well then

Forgot to mention I don't want electric... So while the losi 10 looks brilliant I wouldn't go for it, simply because it isn't nitro I'm edging towards the hyper to be honest Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello everyone I'm currently looking to add a third nitro car to my collection and I have decided on a short course truck since I watch full size off road racing and I think the SCT's look really good on a smaller RC scale too! I have narrowed down my options to three which I really like the look of: Associated SC10: I think this one looks the best aesthetically and I've heard good things about associated products. Hobao Hyper 8 SC: This one I like the size as its a bit bigger, looks like it might be easier to work on and has a bigger engine (.28 i think). I have heard good things about Hobao too. Traxxas Slayer: The main feature I like about this one is that it has 4wd which, in my experience makes it easier to control. Any opinions, good or bad would be greatly appreciated, as would any other suggestions. There is ample parts support for all of them for me so that is not an issue! Thanks guys, Ben

Thanks guys, I'll stick with 30wt then and maybe look at some stiffer springs for when I'm going for the bigger jumps :b Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening all, The shocks on my Savage X are in need of a clean and rebuild, but I can't seem to find anywhere what weight the oil that comes in them from the factory is as I'd like to go a little bit thicker to soak up some of the jumps and maybe have differing front and rear weights to improve the handling. If anyone can let me know what stock is or what is a good set up, that would be much appreciated. I also need to know the volume of each shock, as that way I can work out how much I need to buy, since I can only find 60ml bottles and that doesn't seem like enough to me. Thanks in advance for any help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this the one you're looking for? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/104169/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Starting from factory settings you should tune the high speed needle first then the low speed needle. With the high speed needle you need to run the car in a wide space at wide open throttle, run the car at WOT and see how it performs, at factory settings it will probably bog, and from this point lean it an eighth of a turn then run it at WOT a few times to clear it out, if still bogs and doesn't reach top revs and is down on performance, lean it an eighth of a turn again. Keep doing this until you reach optimum performance at wide open throttle, and then richen it a little bit, between a quarter and an eighth of a turn to prevent engine damage. Then move on the the LSN. The same process applies but with acceleration. See how it performs under acceleration and when it accelerates as best as possible after leaning it an eighth of a turn each time back it off a little bit to stop it running too lean. You should then be able to adjust the idle screw to change the carb gap to get the car to idle and it should sit at idle and run happily through a tank without moving. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi guys, I've been thinking about getting an LRP .32 for my HPI savage, and was wondering what upgrades I would need to be able to handle the extra torque and power. I've got HD clutch bell and spur and I know I'll need bulletproof diffs, but is there anything else that you guys think I would need?? I could also do with some suggestions as to a good flywheel and clutch setup for it. Ben Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can lower the ride height by moving the ball head screw that the bottom of the shocks mount to down into the lower hole. Also use the pre load screws, unscrew them to the top to lower, screw them down to heighten. You should be able to do this for all four shocks. Just remember, the lower your car, the smoother and cleaner the running surface should be to prevent damage to the bottom of the chassis plate, flywheel or spur gear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, will do, thanks for your help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They're snug into the bell grooves, but not to the shaft, there's a few millimeters of play there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah well :')it's more the side to side I'm worried about, do you know anything I could do to fix it?? I suppose I could buy some different size bearings... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's got 7 washers on it and the manual says it should have one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought so, I looked at the exploded view in the manual and there are fewer parts in there than on the truck, I got it second hand so I'm thinking maybe it's a bodge to get it to vaguely work... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

While I was running my savage earlier the front clutch bearing popped out and the clutch bell came loose. I've put a washer in between the screw and bearing to stop it coming out again but the clutch bell is really loose and it rattles. It seems like the bore inside the bearings is larger than the shaft and rings it slides onto... I was just wondering if this is normal or if there is something I should do to stop it rattling?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Check that all the servos and electronics are working, put fresh batteries in both the receiver and transmitter and check the range too so you don't get a runaway Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I'm new here, just recently got into RC, I got an acme cyclone a few years ago for my birthday, built it and attempted to get it working, I didn't know how to tune which put me off and I kind of ignored it until a few months ago when a friend taught me what to do :b last week I got an HPI savage x off eBay all stock and I love it, I live in the west herts kind of area and I'm interested to learn more expect many questions because I'm still learning the ropes :b and thanks in advance for any help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm in Berkhamsted so I'm not too far... The steering servo in my on road broke at the weekend, but my savage is all up and running... There aren't really any good bash sites near here to be honest though