JohnE

thank you, it was probably me being a bit to rough with it but how the hell the spring works I have no idea. Anyway mine is broken and a new unit is on the way so back in business by Thursday I reckon. One thing which I would add is that this is a fantastic forum, lots on knowledge and very quick answers. Excellent

I agree with that. I blow down the pressure line and sometimes release the feed to the carb until it runs out, less blowing that way

the spring on mine is definitely broken and the shaft is now out of the starter housing so we are on our way once the new bits arrive. Thanks to all of you for pointing me in the right direction, its really appreciated.

well I dont have that much patience and so its a new one on the way. Now a couple of questions. 1) Does the shaft simply push out of the pull start housing? I notice that its got an hexagonal end which seems to locate in the housing itself 2) when all of this is re-assembled does it need lining up with the drive cog? there is lateral movement engine/chassis wise and so common sense says get it central. Does that sound correct

I think that the spring is broken and so I am just going to order one from Wheelspin, they have them in stock. Does it come with the shaft that slides into the crankshaft?

something has move or is broken because there is no tension at all in any of the mechanism although now looking at the end which fits inside the casing I think that the spring that I can see located around the outside should be connected to the part that turns and it is not and so I think that it is broken. By the way does a new assembly come with the shaft that goes inside the crankshaft

Well its off and to be honest nothing appears to have fallen out of starter casing but there is no spring tension on the part of the shaft that sits inside the casing. I can see a piece of spring like metal around the inside edge at the closed end but nothing else that would cause a re-coil action

Hello folks The pull start on my Hyper7 21 is out of action. I used it today and its been fine but on the final start the line has become fully extented and will not return. Is this an engine out job, presumably it is and so will the centre diff need to come out and is there anything special that I should look out for. I have no idea what I will find when the starter unit is out so can someone enlighten me please

maybe that should be on the "running in " page cos mine sure as hell was excellent as soon as I started it. Luckily though I did not rev it particularly highly for at least 6 tanks of fuel

Yes but mine ran superbly straight out of the box with no messing at all, very strange but then so is life its almost as though it had been tuned and had already been run in but it hadn't

thanks guys, I will get one of these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/fastrax-temperature-tuning-temp-gun-and-screwdriver/rc-car-products/374120 Slightly off topic but here is a comment from a nitro virgin If I set my car strictly to the manufacturers engine settings it runs like a bag of nails however out of the box it was smooth and picked up nicely, no hesitation, no bogging down and some blue smoke, it ticked over nicely so I am wondering if when I bought it the engine settings were not strictly to the original otherwise it would not have run Any thoughts

Cheers, in that case its probably ok

I am fairly sure that my Hyper 7 TQ2 is tuned correctly, picks up nicely, blue smoke when accelerating and so on but its getting very hot after only a few minutes running. I don't have a temperature tester but the water test tells me that its hot, hot enough to boil the water away so it must be at least 100 degrees C The cooling fins on the engine are all clear and this is happening without the body being in place Any thoughts anyone

ok thank you in which case mine is getting a little hot, dribble of water onto the plug area and it boils off quite quickly however another question. On average with an ambient temperature of say a steady 18 degrees C should it be possible to run out a tank of fuel on this car without letting it cool down Anthoop...I notice that you have a Hyper 21 so can you tell me how long the transmitter aerial wire is please. mine is only fairly short where it comes out of the receiver unit

Thank you. Is that lean on the LSN

I am really new to this but it looks as though the idle screw has lost contact with the throttle slide and its allowing it to move freely until its out of place

Three questions for all of you knowledgeable folk out there. I cant remember where I read this, I thought that it was in my running instructions, but it seems that pinching the fuel supply pipe is an acceptable way of stopping the engine, (I know that others have alternative methods so lets assume that there going to be opinions) however if I do this with my engine the revs never rise before it shuts down and I am sure that there is supposed to be an increase. Only on one occasion has this happened so is this an indication that my mixtures are incorrect When checking the temperature is this done in the glow plug area or on top of what I think is a sort of heat sink. Is it necessary to remove the "back plate" on a regular basis and how big a job is it on this engine Cheers

I will try that one tomorrow, thank you

I left it soaking in WD40 overnight before I ordered the new carb but it wouldn't shift it so big hammer and mole grips next I don't have any O ring lub at the moment now but I will get some silicone grease and yes you are spot on, use the wrong stuff and they can swell up and jobs knackered

Interesting. I have never taken this out of its seating so maybe the O rings have always been incorrectly fitted. If I can grip the head of the needle then I might give it another go but by then it will be knackered. By the way what do you use to lubricate the O rings on say the HSN before its inserted into its housing

Has anyone ever experienced this? The LSN has seized completely into the throttle slide. I have now purchased and fitted a new carb but the old needle will not come out no matter what I do. Past experience with O rings on a Kart braking system tells me that these things can and do happen particularly if some sort of contaminant gets onto the O rings but at worst it was WD40 but I wonder if anyone else has experienced this and if so what was the probable cause. Cheers guys

Yes I realise that the brake subject is different but you have actually answered my question any way so cheers

mine is the same andy1787 on that subject is there an adjustment for the braking force. At one time mine used to lock up the fronts but now it doesn't

Thank you all, its now running really sweet. Had to take the low speed needle in by around 1.5 turns but it seems ok. When I more time I will run it again but just screw this in an eigth at a time until it bogs down at pick up Thanks again gents, really appreciate your help

ok gents thank you for your help. I have followed your advice and the engine now starts and idles nicely however it is as rough as a pair of old boots from the initial throttle opening and sounds as though its misfiring and is not at all clean, plenty of blue smoke but it sounds sort of crackley if that makes sense. I suspect that its running very rich now on the LSN needle and so I will try to weaken this off at an eighth of a turn at a time It is most certainly not singing at a high note which it used to do and it used to pull away very cleanly indeed, but at the moment it is not revving at all, maybe I should treat it to a couple of new glow plugs. By the way the fuel is the same stuff that I ran it in on and that is 20% which I bought from Modelsport UK