behappy2755

Oh yeah, sorry. I never like the factory settings, as they are not accurate at all. What if you want to use 25% nitro, or 18%. What it says in the manual may get you started, but you will definitely need to tune your car. All in all, I think returning to the factory setting is bad, because your needles should be adjusted to suit the engine, not the engine or throttle or whatever else to the needles. Thanks for explaining the stand/go test anyway.

Good to hear that it's not going in the bin tho.

I'm not sure, but I've always thought bogging means rich, and that high RPMs means lean. Unless you mean that the LSN is too lean in comparison to the HSN. And also, what is a stand/go test??

Yeah, it might just be the GP that cant take these high temperatures and pressures, it would be annoying if you strip engine and it's just the GP...

Ok, for fire you need three things: heat, fuel, oxygen. Heat- Your glow plugs are probably fine, so its not heat, Fuel- maybe the fuel is too old (it contains mostly methanol, which absorbs moisture) Air- and it's probably not air; that there is not enough air in there, although it might be that the air is too cold. For an engine to run you also need three things: pressure, constant ignition, and low friction. Pressure- You need pressure to keep the piston moving in a two stroke engine, and also to add fuel. Have you definately sealed the engine?? Constant ignition- The GP is always glowing after you start the engine, because the previous explosion heats it up for the next, and so on. This comes back to your fuel being old and unable to keep the GP hot. Low friction- Also, try to heat up the engine before starting to loosen up cold parts if you havent tried already, with an engine heater or hairdryer. Hope this helps, sorry if I repeated anything you have tried already, you seem to have tried it all.

Thanks guys, I looked at Ham Hill on Google maps, and it seems a bit big. If you can find the time, could you please point out where exactly there is good bashing spots.

Good luck with the tear down. My engine was once playing up, I looked at all the possible tuning guides and help videos, but my issue was different. I used to strap a piece of old sock to my exhaust to increase fuel tank pressure! I eventually decided to completely take my engine apart, and every step was very scary (as I was a noob and didn't want to ruin anything). I didn't find any specific problems, however after putting it back together it worked fine!! I then found out that it was the badly sealed back plate that caused my issue. The problem is with our hobby that some companies don't pay much attention to quality, so you can go and buy all their expensive spare parts. I'm not saying the companies are evil greedy charlatan, in fact some are great, and make you smile when you open the box, but some things are problematic, and drag us away from the fun of RC. I would recommend you get a magnetic parts tray for big tear downs (if you don't already have one) or use a little plastic box for all the screws. It really helps.

Well, my last thoughts would be you haven't done a great sealing job- when the pressure gets high at WOT, it leaks somewhere... You probably know how to do the bubble test, I would advise to do it. This is what makes Nitro different from easy electric models: you actually need to be the dirty greasy mechanic, which brings a whole new dimension to the hobby. Not saying that repairing is always fun; it's very frustrating sometimes, but it makes me so happy when I can see my little truggy riding away after all that work...

Oh yeah!! Ham hill! I remember, I went there with my old scout group a long time ago when I had no idea Nitro RC existed. I look into it. Thanks guys

You're correct. If you lean the HSN, you are also leaning the LSN, however only a tiny tiny bit. Because the amount fuel being sucked in during WOT is high, the HSN setting is more sensitive then. Therefore when only a little bit of fuel is going into the carb at idle the HSN doesn't affect the mixture that much. Even though, the HSN can ruin your tuning if you overturn the screw. But don't tune needles just because you've tuned the other ones, try one at a time and see the performance, then tune any errors.

Does anyone know some good bashing spots near Yeovil/Sherborne? (preferably sand/dust/mud) I'm getting tired of having to find some on google earth. Thank you

It's either the electronics (probably the transmitter/remote), or your engine is not sealed very well. Like hipwell said: inspect the servos and carb without your engine on. If this is fine check the backplate of your engine (where the starter attaches to the engine), this is the most common place for leaks. Also, check your tuning because it may be too lean.

Good point. If it bogs as you accelerate, it probably means that you have a lean LSN, and a rich HSN, hence when you go past the LSN threshold it bogs. However as you say you have the HSN 2 1/2 turns out, I'm probably wrong. Since you've sealed the back plate and done all that work and it still does that, I think you might have a high pressure issue so that lots of fuel is being pushed through HSN... well maybe. If I were you I would just check for any blockage in the exhaust. I'm not sure about it if your engine bogs after WOT, I seem to have that issue myself sometimes. (I guess it might be a lean LSN, or a vapour lock if you overheat) Please correct me if I'm wrong

Hello, I guess you know how to properly start an engine and so on, but before blaming it on the tuning, quickly check if these apply to you: -bad fuel tank seal -engine air leak near your starter box -blocked carb Ok, if these dont apply; it's the tuning. Many people say that the HSN affects mixture at full throttle, and LSN at low to mid throttle. This is a bit wrong, because if you know how the carb works, the HSN affects the mixture ALWAYS because fuel flows through that valve first. The LSN only affects the engine at low to mid speed. Go ahead and take the air filter right off, and move the throttle, see how it works. So once you have set your idle, go on to LSN tuning- One simple test is to pinch your fuel line (doesn't matter what place as it looses pressure), and see how long it takes for the engine to quit. The engine should rev a little bit, before quitting in around 4-5 seconds. LONGER THAN 5 seconds-- LEAN LSN SHORTER THAN 4 secs-- RICHEN LSN (colckwise is lean) Another LSN test is to start you engine, and let the car sit there for about a minute. If you are having trouble with making it sit there tune your idle speed screw/throttle trim on remote. If the engine revs up and stalls (like with your pinch test) then your LSN is too LEAN - richen it. If the engine goes low RPM, and boggs down, your LSN setting is too RICH, -- lean it out. After setting the LSN, go for a few high speed runs, if you think you could get more performance LEAN HSN, if your engine gets really hot or the fuel line is vapour locked (big air bubble near HSN), then RICHEN HSN. Remember to always tune at opperating temp. Hope this helps, any questions contact me [email protected]