fuddy-mucker

Its gpt a y branch joining the two tanks and runs off to the carb. Primer and fuel filter just before carb

Okay so having done the dual tank mod i have an issue. Think it is purely down to air pressure from the exhaust. Filling both tanks and running when both tanks get to around halfway the 2nd tank recently fitted slows down while the stock tank has fuel taken from it. 2nd tank refuses to drop below half a tank even when the first is empty. Any ideas on what i can do? Thanks Rob

When funds and time allow, i'll start asking manufacturers their engine specs i onow every manufacturers dyno's etc are different so you'd never get 100% correct figures but i definitely want my s28 to be like the pervibial off a shovel even on grass! Hey heres a thought.... Extra power = more heat which causes the fuel to heat up before entering the carb or engine we all know cooler fuel is better.. so.. in a little bid to help extract heat further away from the heatsink theres 2 ways 1 remove heatsink and renew gasket before refiting the heatsink to the gasket ring.. thermal conductive paste ( similar to what is used on computer processors ? Hopefully to draw heat more directly and efficiently from the top of the sleeve and bore through the heatsink.. 2 fit an 80mm pc chassis fan run from a hump pack, mounted to the bodyshell ( landrover defender bodyshell wpuld be great for this!! Ok.. so nos, superchargers are a waste of time. But what about some form of power valve? As fitted to yamaha 125s and 250cc bikes from years ago? Ypvs system it was called. Could something similar be done and used on these? The power valve yamahas were 2 strokes too! Anyone onow if the mta4 uses reed valves? Or is it just ports. If its ports only anyone attempted port polishing? I.e smooth hard edges for a smooth flow of fuel and air and exhaust gasses?

Also.. anyone tried the nos kits available? Thinking of a second hand s50 engine then supercharge, nos etc if it blows up... least it will have been fast and fun! Lol

S50 engine with the supercharger and k&n air filter. Fitted off with s50 gearbox and less teeth clutch bell and smaller spur gear, plastic if needed until i get a local machine place to make exact copy of smaller plastic spur gear into a metal unit then it should shift surely?

Hhmm no bigger engine than the 50 :/ id like it to be really torquey but quick too! Is it possible to upgrade the s50 gears i.e is more or less teeth for top end? 5 hours!! What? Lol wish i could get that dont think am far out now tho hopefully

Mine has broken every time ive taken it out hence why ive stopped nor been able to run it longer than 2 hours in one stint lol

Id like something stronger as far as the wheels are concerned. Think al upgrade to s50 cvds and wheels and such as id like to shove a bigger engine in eventually.. anyone know of any torquey engines than the s50 engines? Thanks Rob

I'll take pics mate of all my stuff i love the mta4 and this hobby. Just wish the truck wouldnt break every time i take it out lol. U would love to do more but all in good time

Just out of curiosity.. when you take your nitros out... how long do you expect to be bashing? Tonight is the longest ive gone before having to retire due to failure 2 hours tonight.

The truck was

It was a good run got to be honest few small niggles but nothing major . The front left wheel where the nyloc nut is then the flat washer sit, appears to have cracked behind the washer as its pressed up against the plastic wheel. As its cracked its become loose enough to spin the axle but not the wheel as the big hex nut as had room to move and the heat caused has melted the centre hole in the wheel lol! Need a few things fixing now but... it will get done in time, unfortunately it will have to sit on the side for a few months now. Including purchasing the truck and fuel and hump packs etc etc ive spent nearly 900 quid! Only had it a little over a month and put 1 and half gallons through it! Lol! Think i have an addiction to nitro? Haha

Okay guys! Anyone done this before with an s28?... melted the centre of a wheel?! Just done it myself lol. Been bashing since half 4 and finished at half 6 so.. 2 hours bashing that good going before a big issue?

Here ya go guys a little link i just found makes it easier than fumbling with ideas lol http://www.atomic-racing.50megs.com/page5.html

Don't have any pics at the minute but i'll get some when i take it out later. The original ace 2008mg steering servo began making a chattering noise all the time and then suddenly stopped working and smoke came out and that was it dead. I took advice from a thread found on here about the hd1501 servo but found it to react way to slow and became damaged when touched by water. For the time being ive bought another ace 2008mg servo to get it running etc wanting to buy a waterproof and high torque too.. looking at servos from mutliator 6 petrol rc easy mod to do tbqh

Don't know evssv lol i don't don't know i go from setting rich and slowly lean out until it appears really fast and richen 1/8th of a turn to richen slightly from top performance

Can you put me down as an mta4 s28 owner on the first post . Fuddy-mucker mta4-28 since 05/14 Experiences so far since owning my first monster rc... Can be difficult to tune due to when the fuel level in the tank goes down to half way or below this leans out the mixture of air/fuel so the dual fuel tank upgrade is a must! Plus the dual tank mod can run an 28 after a good retune etc it can run for over 20 mins between fuel ups! Steering servos appear weak. Upgrading to stronger metal geared servos solves the issue easy fix. An inline fuel filter is advisable, simply because its a monster truck, its built to run on dust and dirt and mud, getting that in your fuel system won't go down well. Upgrades so far... already! 2nd steering servo Dual fuel tank mod, inline fuel filter Byrons gen2 dual air intake air filter Copper springs all round Roto start with tornado 2000 stick battery pack ( pull start is weak now) Seems to run great needs a slight retune to get it running 100% perfect which im hoping to do today! 1 question however, Having just done the dual tank mod, ive noticed, fuel goes down at a nice equal level until halfway on the 2nd( new added) tank and then drains from the factory fitted tank only. The fuel line from the top of the 2nd newly fitted tank is full of fuel and has good pressure i.e squeezing the fel tube is difficult meaning the fuel inside the tub is under pressure. Any thoughts? Ive re-routed the fuel tubing slightly so the travel distance for the fuel from both tanks is making the same route. I.e before the 2nf bew added tank tubing was having to travel over towards the first tank more.. i.e the y branch was not running roughly down the centre of the truck where as now it is. Thanks Rob

Hi all, ive recently returned to nitro after a spell away for a few years. Mta4 s28 had about 3 hours of enjoyment in nearly 2 months of owning it and had well... quite a few problems already. Threads on the backplate that holds the dualstart pullstart system on, threads inside were shot( this was built by thunder tiger and like this outta the box! broken bearings now have no drive to the rear wheels.. Ive thought about electric but see them as a childs toy as i had when i was a kid. But.. is the suspension etc just as strong etc as it would be on the same model but nitro engined version. Im finding the mundane, play half hour on shelf for 3 weeks, fux n break thing a bit boring and expensive. So... turning my thoughts to electric! Im seriously considering building something to mark a page in history... possible top speed! Question is.... how much would it cost to build an aero dynamic bodyshell test in a wind tunnel, find a chassis capable of the speeds, motor etc etc etc all in all to buy parts customize etc how much cpuld be looking at?

What ya'll reckon? Its all be cleaned and after run oil run through the carb and engine. Mught be sitting a while now until i have time again. Does anyone else experience a face soreness or eye watering experience when they get a face full of byron gen2 fumes? Blurgh! Thanks everyone!! Really enjoying this hobby again )

Hi all, Thanks have to go out to all those who helped from offering advice on what i should buy and to my latest and most recent posts of issues running and setting up. Good news!! 10 minutes on my own brught and very early this morning saw it running spot on, slight tickle on the rich side just off top performance . Went to a local motorcross track in a wood It was all nice and clean before this! Pics to follow!

Hi there sean, I have the slider with the rubber gromet and screw in the middle, A tiny screw to the rear of the carb and the main hsn on the side. Im just confused as to the brake and throttle, ive changed trim settings etc and the slider pushes back inside the carb and kills the engine meaning i can't brake if i want to keep it running. Its had half a gallon of byron gen2 25% now running os8 plug. 25% fuel right? Thanks rob

Ive tried priming, holding the throttle open slightly erc when starting. Only seems to want to start when the slider is part way from being in the fully rest/closed position Fair enough well i have tomorrow free so more fuel.. and try again lol. When you turn your transmitter and receiver on does the throttle slider remain fully closed i.e rubber gromet compressed. Also. When you press the brake does it move the slider back to fully compress the gromet? Okay im sure i'll get it sorted haha Thanks for the replies guys, i know this thread is a bit long winded now but am sure al have some good news soon!

Thanks for the replies, Yesterday brought a new light on the thing lol! Sorted the pullstart issue, removed the backplate revealing the engines bottom end!! Scary when its brand new 4 days ago!! Lol Anyway, visited my local rc shop and he said try some of these, self tappers that fit through the holes on the pull start but grabbed and held tight on the back plate and has been fine since With that fixed, i set about trying to set it up again etc Hsn 4 full turns from closed, Lsn 6 n half turns from closed and a fast idle. Retuned as needed until top speed came back a little and didnt sound as bogged down Lsn boggy on set off and retuned with a very small amount of bogging on take off. Glow plug died! So new plug and had to retune again, got it somewhere near but intermitently cuts out when going from higher rpm's to idle ime won't ticm over for more than a minute. Another issue now is.. brakes... Everytime i touch the brake even slightly the engine dies. It pushes the slider fully into the carb and kills the fuel flow. Having messed about with the trim settings using the brake no longer is able to push the slider back inside. Should the slider on neutral position be fully back ime rubber gromit be fully compressed ? My local rc guy with the shop said he charges

Well.. yesterday was okay, bar from the original glow plug dieing, retuned a and now runs better albeit ever so slightly rich. However another day another issue... Everytime i use the brake even slightly! The engine stops.it pushes the slider back inside the carb This morning ive messed around with the trim settings and got it so braking doesn't push the slider back inside the carb. The slider is fully sat inside the carb now but.. if the slider is sat home inside the carb, fully in the carb, do i need to retune the lsn again? As i did this last night and set it really rich and it still refused to start My local rc shop said he can tune it and setup for

Well... last night i decided to remove the dual start system and remove the back plate. The threads for the dual start system on the back plate were totally chewed up. So hoping to get another one soon.