fuddy-mucker

I haven't done that for a long time and that was only done once. the damage since then has been resolved, it's been fine up until last night when it decided to eat its own gearbox! I've removed the grub screws from the prop shafts (from either end of the gearbox) noway they were coming out without some force! as I'd again.. using lockingwire and lockthread so they didn't come loose, end result was yes they came out fine, but 3 allen keys came out bent. last night was being run on tarmac, totally smooth tarmac just up and down more than anything as the grass was too long, too wet etc I didn't want the electrics to get all messed up neither I don't bash them hard in all fairness.. theres a mx track in a woods (but you can't bash hard in a wood, trees in the way.. ) big open playing field thats flat and just grass.. and an old pit that closed in the 80s mainly a grassed area with a tarmac road that doesn't get used... thats it. if you can't run the thing on tarmac without it breaking theres something seriously wrong. I've seen the kind of "bashing" some folk do on here in big open MX skate park type stuff i'm not going to those length to jump etc, I dont have places like that near me. the MX track is more hills and dips and crests (if you were riding an MX bike you could jump the bike) rob

Hi all, this is going to be a bit of a tale but.... i could really do with some answers as to wether or not im in the wrong hobby now... :/ Well, I first entered RC when I was child, usual case of being a boy liking cars, parents bought me an elecy rc for a christmas present.. years go by with a few more along the way. approx 8 years ago was when I bought my first nitro RC knowing absolutely nothing about them at all.. wasn't a great experience a month after buying it it was given away to a friend as I'd given up and lost all interest. a few months later I bought one second hand via ebay an old thunder tiger touring car (no idea what model etc if anyone is interested I do have some pictures kicking about). believed to be over 8 years old and hadn't run for at least 6 years (no ARO) used or anything. so hadn't run for quite some time left totally un covered etc in a garage. I paid

Bleeding things broken again! Suddenly lost drive, no forward or reverse, tried pushing it forward or backward in visa versa gears with the engine running and you could hear the gears scream so nothing wrong with the gears as such i.e stopped it go backwards when in forward gears. Got hoke stripped down the box to find ... the reverse gear has a tooth missing, the two plastic 1st and second gears were okay.. except for the tooth that was missing from the reverse gear had embeded itself in the bigger of the 2 plastic gears ( is the bigger gear first gear ) Help me out here guys.... i wanted a toy to stomp around with that wouldnt break nearly every time i took it out.. i know nitros of old and well.. they arent built terribly tough. This happened at low speed on tarmac! Are petrol rc's built stronger so.... you fuel up take out have a bash for a few hours, return hoke, clean it up and put it away until ya wanna play again?.. i know at times it will break but is it possible to have someform of rc that you can take out and bash/run say 7-8 times for a few hours each time without something breaking?... if this nitro rc was a car nobody would have a job bloody unreliable heap! Fun when it works but c'mon... every time its gone out its broken?.. Are petrol rc's more reliable ?

Also, Ive done a gps speedometer on mine, just do what i did lol! Samsung galaxy s4 btw, run with body off, stick your phone on the inside of the front bumper and get some duct tape and tape your phone in place .

Ive had a wheel come off when doing donuts lol i know i know... melted the wheel centre and burnt me thumb in the process. The little nyloc nuts have a habit of coming undone and as they come undone the wheel and hex begins to form a little slack and eventually the hex is sloppy inside the wheel and unless you really have a beady eye while bashing, you risk the hex spinning inside your wheel and round your wheel off. Using two nyloc nuts and lockthread stops the first nyloc nut coming loose so wheels stay tightly bolted!

S28 owner experience. Dual tank mod does work and is well! 100%! Worth it! ( extra weight isn't an issue not like a tank that size full of fuel is gunna weigh much man lol. Grt it run in and tuned up and have fun with it first and decide later. I say go for it as even though its an s28 and isnt thirsty as the s50.. a full tank can be drained in less than 10 minutes gets a bit annoying after a while fueling up every two minutes. Another good reason is.. as you may well find out, the s28 is known for it.. when the tank becomes halfway between full and empty ( along the seem of the tank) it begins to lean out and run like crap ( making running in hard when even at no to mid throttle a full tank will last no more than 15 minutes still and 6-7 minutes is all you will have until the fuel level hits that seem and begins to lean out. ( makes getting the running in and carb settings correct). But is certainly do-able . Also.. makes this happen. Fill both tanks. Enjoy running for 30 minutes+!! One tank full =10 minutes approx 5 minutes of running lean and lean and then the engine stops. Run in series, if you need pics pm me mate, its very easy to do. I found as did a few people i know, the s28 struggles with exhaust pressyre to run parrelel, running in series gives miles better results . Mines got twin tank conversion, still pulls 30mph, certainly aint slowed it down at all . Wheel nuts, Put your wheel/axle pins through, put your hex on, locate the wheel until it goes on fully. Apply lockthread to the end of the axle and apply nyloc nut number 1 and ensure it is tight ( not really really tight but pretty darn tight!) Another tiny drop of locmthread again on the remaining threads and apply nyloc nut number 2 and again, ensure it is tight. ( do this so all four wheels have two nyloc nuts fitted) This stops the nut coming loose, allowing the hex bolt that is located inside the wheel, slopping about and eventually the hex will spin and round your wheels off and well.. its new wheels ( wheels and tyres are expensive!) For the sake of a couple of quid for some nyloc nuts and lockthread, its cheap way of ensuring the wheels wont come loose at all and have perfect wheels too .

I bought my mta4 s28 from je models, no issues read ya pm pal

Yeah i understand it sounds like a lot to take in when your new, I was completely useless when i first started with nitro but thanks to the guyd here and google and a bit of sense its good fun. Feel free to pm me when you like Rob

@Tolska The mta4 s28... is a good truck that you can use anywhere on grass, tarmac, mud and the woods. Ive jumped.mine over motorcross jumps at full chat sometimes getting over 20ft of air! Looms amazing but the landings can make you cringe but... ive not broken a single suspension part yet! Very good strong truck and well worth the money! Seriously! Id highly recommend buying new over used though. You know all about it then . J.e models in berkshire seem to be the cheapest place ( where i got mine) 1st job Glue the hex bolts to the inside of the wheels ( stops them spinning and rounding the wheels off) use araldite or supersteel glue . 2nd job Buy a set of spare nyloc nuts ( same ones used to bolt the wheels on tighten the wheels using one nut and then use a 2nd nut so all wheels have 2 bolts securing them. Also use locthread on these nuts. 3rd job buy lockthread! One bolt kr nut or screw, one by one remove, apply a small drop of medium strength lockthread to the tgread of the nut, screw or bolt and refit and ensure its tigh. Do this as this stops things vibrating loose when your running or bashing . 4th job throw the original glow plug away and buy 3-4 os8 glow plugs, better quality easy to buy from most if not all model shops so no need to retune when a plug dies . 5th job, buy a 2nd fuel tank and some fuel tubing and a fuel filter and google " mta4 dual tank mod" in particular look at the dual tank in series as the s28 seems to oreffer this in my experience. 1 tank last approx 10-15 mins having two tanks means... 30-40 mins between fueling . Make sure all fuel tube connections are zip tied to ensure 100% air tight and also fuel tight . Id also highly reommend buying a thunder tiger rotor starter and a stick type battery pack for this. As the pull starts do break after a while. Other than.. set a side a full day to setup.and tune up. Id also highly reommend byrons gen 2 race fuel at 25% good lubrification properties but also a good balanced blend . Reliable too As i have in the padt had to retune between buying more fuel of the same name and brand etc. Byrons is good as ive not had to do this . Anything else please feel free to ask pm me if ya like fella Rob

Mine was bought brand new 5 months ago, very methodically setup even before taking it out to start it up. I.e.... Engine was carefully stripped and a professional engine builders lubricant used on reassembely. This was done due to ease of access and also to know 100% there was no swarfe left from the casting and machine process. There was some swarfe but not much but still.. any is easy enough to cause damage. The run in consisted of the original thunder tiger plug being thrown away and replaced wuth an os8 plug. Byrons gen 2 race fuel at 25% a full gallon bottle used and the run in period was spaced i.e 1 tank idle and gentle throttle movements to engage walking pace and back to idle left to cool 2nd tank idle to norm running temp then ease upto half throttle i.e 50% half throttle and 50% idle Left to cool 3rd tank idle and quarter throttle ( jogging pace) then just under full throttle in a 50/50 split. Half time jogging pace and near full throttle in random timings and other half time idling. Switched off, after run oil used and new plug for next run. Week 2 Above process however going from a rich setting to a leaner setting with each tank full. Until optimum had been found and backing off until the engine temp dropped a little ( by touch) and the the lauch was a little slower i.e indicating a rich mixture but still stable idle and not bogging out and also a good top end speed. It now has a gen 2 dual intake air filter Copper firm springs all round Lithium grease inside the diffs Hobao clutch bell bearings To go on... Lucas 35w shock oil Upgrade from 52t spur gear to a 46t spur Still using stock 17t clutch bell. I was advised by a chap at modelsport i could fit the 46t spur without changing the clutch bell but upping the clutch bell will likely be too much for the s28 i.e im near the limit when i fit the 46t spur gear. Im hoping to fut the bits tomorrow but wont have any news for a while due to weather and work commitments. Id totally forgotten you can change the gear timing ime when it kicks in to 2nd, Which way do you turn the allen bolt inside the gearbox to engage 2nd later? I.e to really strerch the gearing without doing damage to get best top end speed. The fella from modelsport also said im as close to 2:1 as im likely to get and laughed so... lol. Im hoping for nearer 40mph with the new spur gear . Any idea how i could possibly work out the top end? 80mph from any mta4 hhmm nah not possible. Even an s50 sledge hammer with a good setup with the highest gearing and a supercharger and running homebrew of say.. 45% nitromethane wouldn't manage 80mph. Ive had a hobbypro mutilator 6 with the 23cc zenoah engine iirc ( am going back a few years now) that was claimed to do 70mph.. never more than 55mph. Now though.. at that time i was also heavily into mini moto racing and was offered a polini gp3 engine and this.. with a fair bit of hard work was fitted into the hobby pro chassis, bigger jets were fitted into the carb, k&n race airfilter ( forcefed through pipework) heavy duty clutch springs. 3 speed ( upgraded internals) gearbox. It was a 50cc engine when i started bearing in mind the above modifications... it was upgraded from 50cc to 75cc piston, rings and head and racing quality polini race reed valve. The inlet and exhaust ports on the head and been ground smooth and polished. Even then after all the above.. that then hit approx 80-90mph but didnt last long due to the steering breaking smashing the engine to pieces and was subsenquently sold via ebay a short time later. At that time i had no way of measuring the speed but all i can say is... it really was fast and hearing the gearing change was immense!! In all honestynthough.... if you wabt quick go electric. Easy to upgrade by the look of it.. id like an elecy on road, can use it on the street for testing haha. Rob

Okay fella i'll get that sorted . Ive got the screws i needed from ms today along with another hump pack 35w shock oil and also my first proper hop up!! A 46 tooth spur gear ( stock 52 tooth) so that should see my truck go from 30mph to hopefully nearer 40mph? Lol anyone else running a 17t clutch bell and a 46t spur? Rib

Also.. ive noticed grey like fluid seeping from around the carb body area. I have already tightened the carb securing bolt thinking it may have vibrated loose, is this an issue or is it normal? Thanks Rob

thanks morpet, i'll pm you soon fella thanks . Batteries, charge times and what fits. First off, Hump pack for receiver inside car. Whats a good but cheap hump pack? Hpi plazma 3+2 1600mah? Anything better? A battery pack for the hand held transmitter, is it possible to buy a battery pack for the hand controller? If so can somone direct me to what will fit? Its the standard ace rc cougar 2.4ghz handset. Also im thinking of a spare glow ignitor stick again. I have a hpi 1800mah stick anything better but again cheap? Charge times? I have a vector nx85 delta peak charger with the settings of 0.5a 1.0a 1.5a 2.0a etc upto 5.0a charge rates. The batteries i charge using this are: Tornado 2000 stick pack lpr vtec 3+2 1600mah hump pack hpi plazma 1600mah 3+2 hump pack what rating would be best for these packs and also how long should they be charged for? Thanks Rob

Woohoo!!! Good news the truck is filthy finally few bits turned up and a few little adjustments here and there and bingo! Dual tank system now works ( running in series) using narrower nitro tubing than standard and a slight retune and it now runs for nearly 40 minutes before having to refil! 25 minutes if flat out for 80% ore more of full throttle. So pretty pleased with that... only thing is.. my gallon barrel of fuel is now only quarter full. Had one mishap though.. rolled it and flipped it at full chat and the pullstart came off abd engine stopped immediately. But.. an odd allen bolt and loctite in one of the pullstart securing holes and a zip tie through another hole saw the truck running again! 2hours non stop jumping and hooning! The fix for the wheels is "super steel or araldite" glue the hex into the wheel and locate the wheel and hex into the drive pins and loctite the 1st nyloc nut in position and add a 2nd nyloc nut again wuth loctite thread lock medium strengrh and the wheels stay on and no damage! Just needs a good clean up now lol. Dont suppose anybody has any ideas where you can buy tools for the mta4? I.e allen keys, screw drivers ( good ones) good quality cross wrenches ( like the ones you get in a nitro starter pack) Is it also possible to buy a replacement pack of mta4 fixings? E.g allen bolts, screws,washers etc as a pack? Thanks a million for all the help guys!! By the way, i also did a rough speed check too, downloaded an app for my phone gps speed and used duct tape to secure to my front bumper and came back with a speed of 29.89mph top speed as a result on grass. Is the above speed about right for a standard mta4 s28 with dual tank mod running byrons gen 2 race 25% with byrons gen 2 dual air intake air filter and copper firm springs? I know it runs rich but it appears to run nicely and always like to run rich rather than lean cooler, well lubed up less likely to cause damage . Thanks again ) Rob

Morpet i take it to prime you squeeze the rubber exhaust end and turn the engine over? Well im more hopefull now i can see how it would work so Thanks Rob

Well okay then that sou ds like my problem was to loctite the wheels ive just switched the fuel lines around now to run in series exhaust tube runs to the exhaust pickup on first tank fuel feed from first tank runs to second tank exhaust pickup and wnd tank fuel supply goes to the carb, all tightly zipped up so should be problem free hopefully git a few hours to kill.so Thanks Rob

How do you run your mta4 ? I ask as ive been breaking mine constantly i have taken jumps at near full throttle i.e a 4-5 foot drop but the car landing neatly on all 4's. Taking corners ive found the wheel nuts to come loose abd ending up rounding the inside hex off the wheel knackering my wheels up. So.. is it advisable to feed throttle in slowly so not to round the wheel hex off and also slow for corners rather than accelerate round them again so not to round wheels off? How tough are they? Ive run mine also at a mx track and taken jumps there not broken anything straight away but.. Am i bashing too hard? Being an 28 it has plastic wheels, not sure on the s50... never had one lol Ive used araldite ( like super steel glue mix) and bonded the hex bolt to the inside of the wheels and located the pin into that, used lockthread on the wheel threads and secured with a nyloc nut and then added a 2nd nyloc nut so effectlively 2 nuts to each wheel to stop the first nut coming undone. Think it will work? Also... my dual tank mod ive laid it out so fuel lines are dead straight etc etc but still... cuts out and have half a tank left on additional tank. The 2nd tank seemed to be bubbling away while the first original tank didnt. So thinking npw i jave to run in series... any reason why an mta4 s28 cant run two tanks? Rob

Dual tank = how or where could i run a 2nd pipe from my exhaust? I understand why pressure could be the issue though. As far as i am aware it is only 14mm hex's for the wheels, how much would it cost to go to 17mm hex's and what would i need? Very tight budget now unfortunately due to house move lol. Clutch bell = theres a small ball bearing cage with bearings inside tye cage that is located inside the centre of the clutch bell itself mine have gone AWOL on me and arent sure if a new clutch bell comes fitted with the bearings already in the clutch bell just ready to fit and go. Thanks Rob

Hi all, I havent posted for a while as when i last had my mta4 out i managed to melt a wheel centre doing dohnuts.. wheel is totaly trashed as i tried to remove the tyre to fit on to a replacement wheel but didnt work. Its been sat on the top of the wardrobe for the past 3-4 months, just left with after run oil in there. Problems ive got.. Dual tank upgrade didnt work, it drained from the original tank and drained at half rate from the additional tank and cut out when first tank ran empty even though the additional tank was half full. I spoke to the guy on ebay who sold the fuel pipe and y branches he suggest making sure the fuel line are all equal length from tank to tank so the fuel lines are straight and neat. Also that the carb feed and exhaust take again are all straight and neat. Im not 100% sure if the above will fix the issue, anyone got any suggestions? Any reason as to why an mta4 s28 can't run dual tank? Any ideas where i can get 1 mta4 s28 wheel with tyre fitted? As most place are asking 20-30 quid for two wheels without tyres! Also... the last time it was run, the bearing inside the clutch bell fell apart When you order a new clutch bell, is it complete and ready to run? Or do i need to fit the bearing etc? Can anyone please post pics of a dual tank mod? Just to help me out a little Thanks Rob

Oh sorry lol So far hes whats been changed, Copper firm springs all round Steering servo ( hd150mg but broke on first run) Dual tank upgrade ( doesnt work tho due lack of back pressure from exhaust Things that have gone wrong from memory are... The pullstart and backplate threads had been over stretched by whoever built the truck ( had to use helicoils screws) One of the front suspension knuckles had broken Broken a wheel Dual tank to stop it leaning out halfway through the standalone tank doesnt work for reasons above leaving the truck with the original one tank which after 5 mins runs lean through the tank. To resolve the back pressure issue would fitting the bigger s50 engine sort this? I.e bigger engine, more pressure, able to run two tanks ? Upgrade to stronger s50 wheels as plastic seems crap and brake to easily. Needing the hexs n cvds to do so? S50 box to cope with the torque of the s50 engine i.e metal gears. If the above mames se se and would work, fitting the gpm plastic ( blue) arms and knuckles should sort out alot of the issues right? Rob

Sorry i dont understand.

Certainly a money pit. Aside from the doing doughnuts it has broken numerous times. One of which ive just remembered is the bearing retainer for the clutch bell. It disintergrated while i had it running in the back garden. In your oppinion guys.. The truck was bought brand new in june 2014 so still pretty new. The engine has been meticulously run in and had just 1 and half gallons of byron gen 2 race fuel (25%) through it. Would i be better off upgrading to s50 equipment i.e Engine Gearbox Diffs? Hex's Wheels Cvds? Part of the fun is fixing but i spend more time and money repairing than running... or... should i have gone down the electric route? Thanks Rob

Certainly a money pit. Aside from the doing doughnuts it has broken numerous times. One of which ive just remembered is the bearing retainer for the clutch bell. It disintergrated while i had it running in the back garden. In your oppinion guys.. The truck was bought brand new in june 2014 so still pretty new. The engine has been meticulously run in and had just 1 and half gallons of byron gen 2 race fuel (25%) through it. Would i be better off upgrading to s50 equipment i.e Engine Gearbox Diffs? Hex's Wheels Cvds? Part of the fun is fixing but i spend more time and money repairing than running... or... should i have gone down the electric route? Thanks Rob

Hi all, My mta4 s28 has been sat on the top of my wardrobe now for the past 2-3 months having spent over 200 quid upgrading and repairing its yet again... bust. The dual tank setup doesnt work, tried alsorts and only thing i can think is there is not enough pressure from the exhaust to regulate fuel flow. The front left wheel melted ( around the securing wheel nut) due to doing donuts. Still need a servo saver for steering servo Im sick of this thing breaking every time i take it out. Usually lasts an hour before something breaks ( lucky i take my box etc full of bits and tools). So... how do i make this truck bullet proof or as near as? Reliable and strong? S50 upgrade ? I.e gearbox, cvds , engine , wheels and all bolts to go with ? Over time upgrade to rpm arms and knuckles? Rob

Do ypu have anymore pics of the fuel aetup? Not sure on fuel pressyre if only one tank is linked to the exhaust