ExLimeyBasher

For emergency purposes i keep lengths of 3mm, 4mm and 5mm screwed rod in my toolbox so if i dont have the right length screw i need, i just cut a length and use a nut on both ends for through holes. For blind threaded holes just screw the rod into the hole and use a nut on the outer end. Got me out of a bind many a time.

TIP.. If you are going to cut down longer bolts, thread a regular nut onto the bolt, then cut to length, then file/grind the rough end, then remove the nut this will ensure that all burrs are removed. Leaving burrs on the end will rip the nylon to shreads if you have to use nylock nuts on your finished bolt.

On the right is from Cen GST7.7 on the left is from an old Force 26 only diffrence is on the force one the fuel inlet nipple is plastic not brass. i have tried interchanging between the 2carb bodies and they fit and the thread on the needle is the same as well. if you cant get one let me know.

My Titan Twin still draws alot of attention whenever i fire heronstertrucker/001_zpsc9cd0d9f.jpg

Bad air leak at the exhaust manifold joint ?

A 21 size engine (.21 cubic inches) is the same size as a 3.5 size (3.5 CC) engine, CC is metric Cu inch is imperial.So all is good

ofna part no 18963 is the 62 tooth metal spur gear for the Monster Pirate

I believe Amerang are the importer they are in Lancing Sussex. http://www.amerang.co.uk/remote-control

You can replace just the bearing and the housing that it pushes into. Thunder Tiger part no PN2050 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Thunder-Tiger-One-Way-Bearing-6x10x12mm-9482-PRO-28BK-PN2050-NIB-/390680793562

Yes but it is already broken and they have said they will not replace it so you lose nothing by measuring it. With a crack that big the bearing should just fall out (if the housing was made correctly). If the hole in the housing is small then the bearing will probably still be tight.

Tap the bearing out of the housing, the crack should close up, measure the size of the hole in the housing then measure the outside diameter of the bearing, The hole should be approx .002" (.05 mm) smaller than the bearing. Looks to me by the size of the crack that the bore in the housing is undersize, which is a manufacturing defect.

Some more info for you. http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force12s,15s.pdf

Yes but this is an old style rotary carb and does not have a slide, that is in fact the Low speed needle. The motor used in the colt 15 was the Force 15 pro, go to the ofna website for full details of this engine.

Yes that is your low speed needle, and it looks to be set flush.

Ofna 10091 fits the old style Force engines with the standard (non SG) crank but i think the thread is 1/4 not 6mm, recheck you thread to be sure

If your flywheel rotates when you pull the pull start but there is no resistance it sounds as if your con rod is broken. Remove the glow plug look down the plug hole and slowly pull the starter to make sure the piston is rising and falling, if it is not then that is your problem. But then again it may be just a loose glow plug!

My Ofna Titan Twin

Most slide carbs use the same type of idle screw, the screw should have a plain non threaded spigot on the end, this spigot locates in the slot on the slide and prevents the slide from rotating, screwing the idle screw in or out moves the end positions of the slide, usually the screw is used to obtain the closed position idle gap of 1mm, and the fully open position is controlled by the end point adjustment of the throttle on the transmitter. Maybe your spigot has broke

My First RC car was a Mardave Ferrari F1 with a Veco .19 engine and Futaba 2 channel 27 mhz am stick radio, think it was the same as the lola just a different body. the car had solid rear axle no bearings, plastic front axle beam with King pin steering, the brake was as strip of tin plate with a bit of leather stuck to it, it was bolted to the chassis and bent around the clutch bell when the brake was applied it rubbed on the bell to slow it down. The veco had a push on heat sink head which was held on by friction, it had a rotary carb was very easy to tune and would run all day but the performance of a skoda on prozac. There was no pressure line to the tank and i think the tank had a rubber stopper in the filler hole. the date would have been about 1977, Ah the good old days!! then i moved up to a PB international with a picco .21 and then a SG Columbia with Super Tigre .21. Somewhere along the line i also had a Texas Wild Baja off road buggy cant remember who made it may have been ripmax. Used to go to the Mendip circuit in Weston Super mare and also to the circuit on the downs in Bournemouth.

Both the Universal joint type and the CVD type have an M5x5mm long Grub screw to hold the pin in. Hobao and Ofna.

Sorry for the delay been listening to Test Match Special and the 8 hour time difference really screw me up. England in the sh..e again. http://ebookbrowsee.net/protech-t54-phaser-4-xr-instruction-manual-pdf-d250690602

the protech phaser instruction manual says the front drive shaft is part number T54.078 and is 88.5mm total length. didn't say what the pin to pin length is but should be about 80.5mm

I have a laptop running Windows 8 and i tried every way possible to post pics on here with no success. Went back to my PC running windows Vista and it posts pics just fine. tried windows 8 again and still no luck. Funny that!