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These are now awaiting a spin on a lathe to make the centre hole correct for the 17mm mounting. Hopefully have them back next week, then I've just got to decide whether to reuse the tyres I got with them or buy new. The only complication is that they're not a traxxas bead which is what Proline seem to make everything in, so will traxxas bead fit? If not what tyres will? I know HPI do because that's what I have already, any help appreciated

Err in a word, no. You're quite correct I should have done, but it has a fault anyway (an I have had a replacement from HPI). I rushed because I just wanted something done and I also wanted to have a go a masking. However as has been pointed out it is very thin in places, so I'll gorilla tape it up and use it as my running shell then hopefully do a better job on the next one. I have an idea for colour at least on the next one, but not sure whether to wait and try it on a proline shell. Pleased with the truck though, I know if you push then they're probably full of flaws but it was an absolute riot on 3S and perfect for charging about in the woods. I might even look at the two speed conversion for trailing. It's biggest shortcoming was the Summit with locked diffs will overcome lose ground the Maxx struggles a bit with it unless you keep forward momentum.

Yeah I can imagine that some truck tyres are a but heavy. Just a quick video from a great spot I've found, we took a picnic and my brother our partners and my nephew relaxed in the sun while me messed around. Very happy with the end result, I was worried that it might not be fast enough but it plenty. This truck is definitely a keeper now, the HPI body and Tamiya paint however are rubbish, first run out the paint has peeled and cracked along with the shell. I'll gorilla tape it up inside and try and slow it down.

Please lock this thread, I've decided to keep this stuff Thanks

Now that's a good looking rear end lol I'll have a look into the springs, for the time being I've used a spare set I had kicking around. It's good enough for now so maybe I'll look at getting better dampers complete like you have.

As much as I'd like your money I'd like to be clear about this. It is a two speed forward with reverse gearbox exactly as it would be in a 2.5 T Maxx it has none of the bits left from the brushless conversion.

Small update in never got round to fitting this. I know I'm probably not supposed to have trimmed it down, but other that hacking the ESC mount around I couldn't see how it could have fitted. Either way a small improvement. I need to find some stronger springs for the rear as with my 3s pack in its basically sat on its stops. Any suggestions?

Sorry to missed your reply, it works perfectly as far as I know. I just took all the bits from the conversion Dave had done and put them in the new casing with a new input shaft. Sent from deep space

Proof I do go beyond the roof outside of my flat lol. First impressions are that it's clearly (as a few people have pointed out) never going to be a hardcore Basher. It'll be great fun for trailing though I think, the only thing I might try is locking an old diff and putting it in the rear as on a loose surface traction breaks very easily. Took a half day off today and got the SPI wheels to my mate to be altered so hopefully with some better tyres it will improve the grip.

Yes I spoke to my mate about doing it and said a lathe was the only proper way of doing it. It's just a shame it'll be a while before I get time to meet up with my mate to pass the wheels on, then probably ages before I can get them back as we're both just really busy at the moment. I might try ringing some engineering type places and see if they'd do it but I suspect the cost would exceed the value of the wheels. Also a bit worried about them just being bonded with a contact adhesive, but that's what the SPI instructions suggest. I'll see how it goes I might just plump for getting my money back by selling them, then just looking for something interesting from proline or traxxas. However I still do like the thought of an almost indestructible wheel (at least in normal use). We'll see, but there's no way I'm risking taking a short cut.

Looks good mate, my Summit is currently running a DeWalt motor but the gearing needs investigation. It's not far off now after my mistake with a 12v motor.

They're designed to fit a Savage I believe so a 6mm hole with a 17mm hex. Not 5mm which the traxxas is and I don't think I can use a savage hex because they're stepped inside and to thin (and ridiculously expensive for just a hex IMO). The quickest solution for my requirements would be to make the hole 13mm so they fit on standard 17mm fixings. However they need to go an a lathe for that and although I can get it done it'll be some time before I can catch up with my mate to get it done. It might be easier to just move them on to someone else and start again with proline wheels that fit. But then I'm not sure if the HPI tyres will fit because all the proline wheels say Traxxas bead fitting. Sent from deep space

That's interesting to know, if you could shed any light I'd be greatful. I'm still not 100% sure what to do, I'm not going to get time to catch up with my mate any time soon and if they are a bit unusual it would almost be a shame to modify them. I can't really afford new tyres and it seems a shame to glue old ones back on. So sort of 50/50 whether to sell them and move on or keep them, modify them and use them with old tyres.

Thanks, I'm just relieved to have the dam thing working. It's completely stock at the moment so 65 18 I think (but my memory is rubbish), it's just running 3s LiPo. I'd love to carry on and mod it, but that'll have to wait because my real car needs some love Kinda, I live in a flat above a shop. The roof is a good space for test runs and comes in handy for drying my tent if we have to pack it up in the rain. It is however no substitute for a garden, but cheap rent and reasonable distance from work. Very happy with it on 3s, it's the completely stock gearing. I need to figure out what to do LiPo wise as mine don't really fit. So that'll have to come at some point, then it'll have a decent run time and I can take it out trailing with the Summit. All said and done it's been a good adventure and I've kind of grown attached to it in the process. Just need some down time from work to take it out and try it.

Nope sorry, get the RPM ones they're much better quality. Sent from deep space

Yes RPM make some great stuff for this and the Summit. The true track might not be a bad idea, maybe next month I'll take a look. The diffs seem to be the week point in alot of the Traxxas stuff. I'll just keep an eye on them. Is it the content that causes the problem or do the alloy housings help? To be honest as much as I like to think I'm a bit of a basher I hardly ever really abuse stuff, I could count on one hand the amount of things I've actually broken from abuse. In part this truck is for my niece's and nephew's to play with and it'll be used for trailing mostly. We've had some wonderful walks out with the Summit and although the Yeti is a good companion it's not really stable in the hands of kids and breakage is expensive and usually long winded. Just want to get out and use it now. I think the next big investment will be LiPo's for this and the Summit because when trailing duration is king.

Bump

Sold please lock

Bump complete gearbox now added

Been busy again this evening. These arrived today So i got busy, out with the old And in with the new I must have just not being paying enough attention when I opened the diffs, to be honest I remember opening one but I can't remember which. Either way I could see straight away this was the culprit. It was difficult to photograph but the edges of the gear where worn really badly and chipped in places. So i finally got it together properly I decided for the time being to probably use my two pairs of NiMh as they fit in the chassis really well and otherwise they'll just sit and do nothing. I'll look for some 3s LiPo's at some point, but my current ones I use in the Yeti don't really fit. The good news is after a short test run I can confirm that this truck works completely perfectly. I just need to sort out the tracking front and rear as it's a bit all over the place. Still waiting on my mate to modify the alloy wheels, to be honest I just haven't had time to catch up with him. This Maxx has been a roller coaster for me, it hasn't turned out how I first imagined it would. I had some spare cash and thought a budget build would be great, but what I ended up with was selling stuff to fund the £200 odd I've spent trying to fix a problem that was the diff all along. So what I've got is a £300 completely standard E Maxx, with a rather loud Ford Bronco body. What I gained was several evenings of fun (even if it was a bit frustrating at times) and some great help, encouragment and advice from people on this forum. It's reminded me why I got back into RC and what a rewarding hobby it can be. I will be keeping this truck, the updates will be slow now in comparison, but it's found a place in my collection for sure.

Diffs arrived today These should hopefully see an end to the clicking. They're that later type proper E Maxx ones, so should look something like this inside And a servo extension lead for the ESC so I can get the receiver in the waterproof box as the one it has is too short. Unfortunately it's a double and should be a single, but it'll do for now. And I'm stuck at work unit 6:30pm

Diffs for the E Maxx, hopefully this should sort it once and for all. Oh and a servo extension lead (should have been single, but came double. It'll do for now though. Sent from deep space

Oh and a couple of pictures. Hopefully the diffs are coming tomorrow hopefully

It has been a massive learning curve and I've spent too much time really looking at T Maxx, E Maxx and E Revo exploded diagrams. I have had the truck apart some may times I could almost do it with my eyes closed. I have coming the proper E Maxx diffs in the latest style, again I did my homework and realised that the late E Maxx diff is very different to all of the others because it's held together inside much better. I'm glad I checked though because you can't tell from the outside as the casing is the same. I'll definitely set the clutch up as I don't kill everything. I will look at the settings for the ESC and see if I can ensure the brakes aren't too aggressive.