Skiddins

How does removing something from the trailing edge adjust timing? I can understand how this may help prevent the arcing as I mentioned, therefor making the power flow more efficient, but it still does not advance where the brush first makes contact with a segment of the comm, and timing is about the relationship between the brushes and the magnets, which you haven't changed. Hmm, when looking at the endbell, do you turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise to advance the timing? Skiddins

I must confess, I don't see how the timing can be increased by removing anything. Adjusting the timing involves advancing the brushes in relation to the fixed magnets, correct? By removing part of the brush, particularly on the leading edge, if anything, you are retarding the timing aren't you? I thought that by removing from the trailing edge, the brushes spend less time 'shorting' between the segments on the comm. ANy of this make sense? Skiddins

When I was last involved in racing electrics we used to turn up and charge the packs there and then, at that time the largest packs we had were 1700MAh Ni-cads which only took 15-20 mins to charge. As the 3300's seem to take 45-50 mins, how do you prepare for race days? My thoughts are that it's best to charge everything up the day before as late as possible, then you only have to top them up at the race meet. Or would it be better to pre-charge some packs and save your 'finals' packs for charging on the actual day. Or....use the same couple of packs more than once on the day? I have 4 good packs of cells and 1 dubious pack that I use for testing (may just need cycling) and I believe that a race day at West London will mean 3 rounds and 1 final. Any thoughts? Skiddins

Having spoken to someone at West London on Monday, they mentioned that some drivers like to file the edges of the brushes to reduce the amount of 'shorting' on them as the comm rotates. Have any of you tried this, and if so, how much should be removed? Skiddins

What setting should I use to charge a 5-cell 6V, Ni-cad battery receiver pack using a Novak Millenium Pro. I have set it for 5-cell etc, but what should be the peak voltage etc be set to. Cheers Skiddins

I think you'll find that the servo's are almost all the same size, unless you get a micro servo etc. My car hasn't raced properly yet but it's still had a Futaba 3003, KO Propo PDS-2144 and a KO PDS 2123 in it. All the same size, but I had to get a new servo horn for the KO's as the metal part that attaches to the servo horn appears to be very slightly bigger than most others. Skiddins

Are all these available at most model shops? Skiddins

I see a lot of bodyshells on the net that have been painted in those flip/flop colours that allow the colour to change depending on the angle. I know it is available in proper car paints (I believe TVR were the first to use it) but what about model paints, or are those drivers just using the proper car paints on their bodyshells. Thanks Skiddins

The only thing I find about Protoform is that all the bodyshells all look so boring. If you were to swap sticker sets between them you'd probably never tell the difference. Skiddins

Has anyone tried using a Yokomo Drift kit body? They are more expensive but they do seem to look better. Skiddins

It doesn't look like my tranny has a V-Mix type option, only the usual 'reversers' and dual rates etc.

My car came with a pants Alfa body. I've been looking at the HPI Lotus Elise 2000. All the Protoform bodies look the same....dull Out of interest, does anyone have any pictures of what the Mission Undertray etc looks like? Skiddins

I now have a Novak XXL receiver for my touring car, I already have a Nitro buggy which uses the Futaba Skysport 6YG 40MHz FM tranny and the receiver that came with it. The trouble is, with the electric car, when I use the Skysport both channels at the receiver end are controlled with the right hand stick on the tranny. Is there any way to get the throttle back over to the left hand stick (channel 4?). If not, can anyone recommend a good 2 channel 40MHz FM stick tranny. I've only just got the receiver so I'd rather not get rid of it. Will a 3 channel stick tranny be correct for use with a 2 channel receiver. Thanks Skiddins

I understand from almost every piece of electronic equipment I have for the cars that schottky diodes are recommended for the motor. What is their purpose. My Novak manuals mention that even if the ESC has one built in, it can't hurt to have another on the motor itself. Has anyone had any experience in a difference in performance with one fitted? Thanks Skiddins

I have been trying to re-wire some Corally's onto a Speedo and Motor etc, and have noticed that 12AWG wire will not fit into the end of the connectors. I thought about using a long M3 screw and soldering the wire to that, then screwing it in. However, the screws I have tried using all seem to repell solder really well. Will brass screws solder OK? does anyone know what the gold colouring on Corally's is? Thanks Skiddins