Mgozzz

Any of you guys pickup one of the new Subaru shells yet? I see them on eBay.co.uk now... Come on Hobbico USA, I want these new bodies!

I always recommend the HD drive cups. The stock parts wear out pretty fast, you will notice notches wearing into them from the dog bone pins. Upgrading involves digging into the doffs so if you decide to go for it you should also make sure you have new diff shims, gaskets, silicon oil and even center dog bones ready to go in. It's a big job but it is well worth it. On top of strengthening the driveline it will help you learn a lot about how the car (and most others rc cars) work.

They should fit the 2.2" wheels perfect. I'm going to keep the Bullet/WR8 converted to the Bullet just because it is awesome. I took it for another run today and the thing is just a beast, it jumps amazing and just goes over everything. It is great, I just need to find a body I like for it. Now... with the release of the new Subaru GRC bodies I definitely need to have a scale WR8 back up and running so I'm slowly starting to rebuild my WR8. It will have a similar electric combo (mmp/4000kv Vektor) and I'm going to order all the HD drive cups in the next few weeks. The cups are really the only thing I need to get another roller back together as I have a crazy collection of WR8 parts.

Awe yeessss! I'm going to order one now! They both look great!

BTW, This is kind of the current state of my WR8. 8-) lol it was really fun to drive around like that. In all reality this is actually it's current state 8-( Mike

You know, that's what I was thinking. Maybe it could be the added pressure or stress on the components? Lord knows I was beating the snot out of the thing ;-) Someone had mentioned it could also be due to excessive diffing out... Diffing out would make some sense but I've been running 10k in it and I'm pretty sure the diff action is pretty minimal vs the action with straight grease. The center diff having 100k in it is also something to think about. I guess it probably sees a lot less stress compared to the rear or front diff though. So I guess you will have to check yours out when you get a chance. FYI I also did the same thing when I put my silicon in on my previous set of diffs, I reused the stock shims because they looked totally fine. When I upgraded to the HD cups I went with new diffs (and these are the ones above) At any rate the shim under the bigger sun gear on the ring gear (metal) side seems to be the one that is worse off in my case. The shim on the case side was one of the 2 washers on the right in my picture. I'll be disassembling all my diffs by the end of the week so I'll have more insight on the situation. I was having a bit of mechanical chunkiness with the center diff so I'm really interested to take a look at it now. That is surely a sign of issues because as the shims wear they move away from the spider gear causing it to disengage and or lock up. BTW I stumbled across these the other day- http://www.ebay.com/itm/400554817832 I'd order a set but the conversion rate puts a damper on that at the moment. Ally diff cases could possibly help if the stock plastic cases are deforming... I'm not sure that is what's happening though.

Check your diffs guys! I had noticed my rear diff locking up every now and then and I finally decided to open it up to see what was going on. While checking all the spider gears everything looked just fine. Then I really dug in and found out the problem. These are the shims that sit behind the bigger internal gears. I took a few of my spare diffs apart to see if the other shims looked the same. As you can see they are pretty munged up. The shims that go behind the smaller gears are also worn pretty badly. These diffs are new from the beginning of the summer. I bought them from a breaker and filled them with 10k silicon oil when they came in. I'm really not sure if this is normal or not for silicon filled diffs... I'd like to think not. Lol. Anyway I have some shim kits coming in and I'm going to freshen up all 3 diffs. If anyone is having issues with the diffs being rough or sticking I'd suggest doing the same. If you let it go too long you will need to start replacing spider gears... As I will be doing 8-(

It's a great idea. 888- how's the clearance on the rear wheels/control arms?

327mm wheelbase. I think it is around a standard 1:8 buggy actually.

Does anyone want to venture a guess as to what my WR8's next form will be? :evil laugh:

That would be wishful thinking ;-) The Basher Rally is 530mm long vs. the WR8 at 485mm. The Rally Basher is based on a true 1:8 scale buggy chassis vs. the WR8's 1:10 scale chassis (super 10th scale for the most part). I am very interested in this new car though and it has me rethinking my WR8... A few things are holding me back at the moment, Body availability (one body so far not really much different than the WR8), and the change over to 1:8 scale electronics. With the WR8 I can run it's electronics in pretty much all my other models. With 1:8 I'd have to buy more stuff ;-) It is a really nice looking scale though. I think that and the beefy 1:8 scale base chassis is what I like the most about it.

The gears are also a good idea. Mainly because they will give you more adjustability to gear the car up if you want to. I'd go with the 42 tooth and maybe drop down to the stock 15t pinion if you are not already running it to make sure the motor stays in its operating temperature range. Alloy parts are really a choice thing. The a-arms will tighten up the flexy stock arms and keep alignment settings dialed in but add weight at the same time. They will also heighten the chance of snapping something else (hinge pins and diff cases) as they are designed to be the weak point when hitting something allowing things to flex instead of snapping. As for the other alloy parts? I honestly think they mostly add weight to the car. The stock steering is surprisingly tight (after replacing the servo saver). The stock plastic diff cases are also really stout, I've had zero issues with mine after 2 seasons of use and they are the same pieces that HPI uses in the bullet ST and MT. The bearings still sit tight and flush where they are supposed to be and I haven't need to add any extra shims anywhere. As for the stock anti bending plates & steering brace I think they are used more for looks really... The chassis is thick enough where there is very minimal bending going on between any of the components (steering posts, diff cases, motor mount etc.). If you need the extra reinforcement the alloy parts are offering you then you should probably be running a 1:8 GT chassis ;-) To me all the alloy looks good but I really don't think it's needed for most of the parts. For straight performance I'd recommend upgrading to the 42t spur, maybe the a-arms if you seriously need to make sure the alignment is set perfectly for road racing or what not, the Billet center drive shafts just because they are cheap and may last longer than the stock ones (I haven't tested them yet), and lastly the shock set because it looks like they add in a great deal of easy ride height adjustment which the chassis desperately needs. That's my .02p on alloy parts ;-)

Yeah the shipping makes it a bit too high to be worth buying them all together. If it was $40 total it would be a good deal.

Not yet. Let me put it this way.... We actually just got the speedline wheels in stock at one of the major US distributors last week. How long have they been available from MSUK? A month or more? The US supply chain just seems to be way behind and it makes me sad...

You lucky dogs! You all can go out and buy the method rally cross wheels now ;-) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281460968690 and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271628621291 I wonder if that means it is only a matter of time before they drop the WR8 Subaru bodies... :fingers crossed:!!

I get most my stuff from ebay. If you are in the UK I think MSUK would be your best bet. I'd look for the Integy 40-42 tooth spur (smaller will be faster). You can get the part numbers here and then look it up on ebay to see if you can get a better price. Next you will need a mod 1 pinion with a 5mm shaft. I tend to go with Robinson Racing Products you can also find them on ebay no problem. I'd go with the "12 series" pinions, part number 1224 would be the 24 tooth Xtra hard mod 1 with the 5mm shaft etc. As for batteries... if you want to keep the same rpms with the 2200kv you will want to go 5-6s. You will have to look where to get those on your own. I'd pick a place that is on the same continent at least so you don't have to wait for overseas snail mail shipping.

What are you running for a battery? I think I mentioned it earlier but depending on the battery you are going to want to gear it up (big pinion/small spur).

Wow Leo! Those are awesome. The more I see them the more I want to get one...

I think they might be too long. I need to find something in the 65-70mm length. I don't think there is really anything out there that will work though so I'd like to make some custom shock towers out of carbon fiber that will allow me to use the stock shocks. It will be an interesting winter project.

Thanks for the info! That's great. Almost sounds like they went with a higher spring rate... Let us know if it is bouncy!

Neat! What do you think? Do they feel close in spring tension and dampening to the stock shocks? Stiffer? Softer? Shoot some pictures of them mounted up if you can!

Ahh that's a good idea!... I'll have to try it out at some point. So yeah it just doesn't seem to have the punch it had before. The first and second run it seems alright but after that it seems to flatten out. I definitely think it's the batteries. Just think of wheel spinning punch almost all the way up to the top end. It was absolutely crazy lol.

Latest video- For some reason the car doesn't seem as quick at it was the other day. It is still fast regardless but I think the setup is stressing the batteries at this point. I only have a 35c and a 40c 3s pack at my disposal so I'd like to get my hands on a 60c+ pack to see if it makes a difference. That probably won't happen before winter though.

Well the 3800kv/mmp combo works really well for bashing. It has massive torque and top end pretty fast too. You can also run 3s in it day and night and there is no worry about overheating the ESC.