Mgozzz

Seems pretty expensive, too rich for my blood ;-), I guess it's because it is the 1st livery? Anyway, if you want to buy it and ship it to me I can send it across the pond for you. I think the last time I sent a chassis over to the UK it cost around $35usd, i'm not sure what a body would cost. It is lighter but also bigger. Let me know if you want me to look into it. Mike

That car looks great TopGun26! I always liked the DRX & its shells... but because I'm an electric guy I just couldn't get over the DRX-VE's odd battery tray and its general electronics layout. If it had a more conventional design I may have gotten one of those instead of the WR8 back in the day! I don't know if I can imagine that as a reality honestly ;-) Someday when I'm good and ready to fully make the jump into 1:8 scale electrics I will probably go with something like the OFNA 1:8 rally car or AKA the 1:8 Basher Rally. I really, really like the way that car looks and it will work with some of the other 1:8 scale sedan/coupe bodies. Now If they happen to release a kit version of it I may jump on it sooner than later ;-) Anyhow! Let us know what you find with the steering. I have a feeling that you may notice some steering performance loss at low speed by trimming down the end points to cut back on the chatter. For the best performance the steering knuckles should be able to use the C-hubs as a stop point without binding/chattering. That is how I set my end points now with the stock dog bones. This really only effects like low speed turns, turning around, or pulling a Rockford ;-) You may not have noticed it as it only really happens at full lock. Try setting your ends points to match the knuckles hitting the c-hubs (just touching them, not straining the servo or anything) then do some low speed figure eights. While you are doing that look at both front wheels, usually the inner wheel will look like it is vibrating excessively for the speed it is going. That is the chatter or at least the chatter I see with mine. Yeah, the most common advantage is the smoothness of the power delivery. This has a few improvements, one is the removal of a lot of driveline vibration and noise which lessens the stress on the motor and the entire driveline. Another is more efficiency, you are not loosing that small amount of movement in the space between the drive cup and the dog bone pins. Another advantage **should** be improved range of motion on the axle. As you have read though this may not be the case with these specific parts. We will have to see what happens.

Good info thanks TopGun. If the length is spot on that is great. As you said the only other concern is the range of motion of the cvd itself. Or does it have enough of a working angle to function at full steering lock without binding or chattering. You could possibly test it by powering off the car and turning the wheels until they are at full lock (the steering knuckle would be touching the C hub). And then you could roll the car or spin the tires and try to feel for resistance? I would imagine the CVDs would have a greater working angle but anything is possible. So on a side note has anyone tried out these wheel sets? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=281386360966 They have the same dimensions as the hobby pro H40s & H39s and the price is even cheaper! I'm tempted to pickup a set to do some runs with. They will probably need to be strapped with tape to keep them from ballooning but the price is right!

Hmm.. the chatter issues with the CVDs has me intrigued now. I'm really wondering where it would be coming from. With the stock bones (in my case) it was coming from the the axle drive cup interfering with the dog bone at full lock. Like this- So with CVDs... I really wonder if they didn't engineer in enough room in the cup to allow the bone to have proper range of motion. It would really make me sad if the only set of CVDs out there are messed up 8-( TopGun26- Please let me know how she turns with everything trimmed up and EPA'd properly. Also if you have the ability to, I might ask you to record some turns to see what kind of impact/limitation the CVD's impose on the chassis turning radius. Oh I'm sure I will. My experience with the WR8 3.0 off road tires (the 1.9" ones) was great. The tread design on them is perfect for driving through hard packed dirt with messy loose pebbles and stuff like that on top. The tread was even respectable on short grass if it had to be. So that tread coupled with the stiffer sidewall support should be a good combo. One question though- My yellow wheel combo tires didn't seem all that harder than the stock off road tires. They actually seemed as soft as them. I'm wondering if you may have received a much harder compound than I had? Do you think that is possible? Indeed. I was wondering if HPI was going to get all stinky over it but then I thought, hey the rims probably came from HPI's supplier so all that money is flowing under the same bridge anyway. I'm probably wrong though ;-) Mike

Haha! I think your description is spot on! Soft and plasticky vs. soft and spongy is exactly how I'd explain it now that you mention it. 8-) I have the yellow ones. I still haven't glued them to anything, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with them. I will say the rims are very very close in design to the WR8 tarmac rims. They may even be an exact clone of one and other, I'm not sure which came first... It could very well have been the HSP rims. Anyway I'm probably going to order another set of the cool yellow wheels so I'll have something to mount my 2 full sets of 4590s when they come in ;-) (yeah I got them for $23 shiPPed!!)

Hey welcome! This is a great little car! If you are running on tarmac with some loose stuff on top (dust, sand what have you) I'd go with 10k front and rear and 100k in the center. You could stick to the grease but it really isn't all that great for tarmac. It will tend to unload a lot coming out of corners and it makes the car handle pretty odd. With the 10k she will be much smoother and more predictable. Depending on the tires and the power you have on tap it will make it really easy to power slide through corners if you choose or making it just as easy to brake down to the correct speed, make the corner and then have the car pull itself out of there like a rocket powered mule. If you are running on mostly scale packed dirt with gravel or a thin coating of loose stuff it may be better to go a little thinner front and rear. Maybe 5k-7k. In either situation I'd stay with 100k or higher in the center diff. That's my 2p ;-)

Cool, whats wrong with the esc and motor in there now? If they are the stock parts they are pretty good on 2s. If you want to run 3s or generally have an all around better ESC that you don't have to worry about I'd suggest upgrading to a Castle Mamba Max Pro. The stock 4000kv Vektor motor is an absolute beast on 3s with the mmp. It is a really great combo. Now if you don't have the stock 4000kv Vektor motor or you are sure you want to upgrade I'd recommend going with the Castle 1410 3800kv motor. It has great speed on 3s and massive amounts of grunt.

FWIW I was getting chatter at full lock with the stock dog bones when I tested it off the ground. So I went ahead and set the end points to stop it from happening and doing so drastically impacted the steering, I thought there had to be something more to it so I tested it out on the ground and I found I could let the end points out much further before I got any chatter. You might want to see how yours works on the ground to see if you can tweak the end points out further. The info is helpful though, thanks! So off hand do you think the CVDs have more articulation before they chatter over the stock dog bones or less? I'm really hoping they have more range of motion, I can't wait to order a set!

TopGun16- I forgot to ask, is there any binding at all with the o-rings removed? Front or rear? Mike

Double post... Edit. Btw here is my old gyro that goes in my kids car. And my new one is actually built into my receiver. I can tweak the sensitivity of it by turning the VR dial to the left of the steering wheel ;-)

You are not ****ting! CVDs are the one upgrade I've been waiting for to complete my chassis. I'm so happy! Thanks for the heads up that they are available! So yeah you usually want to remove any cup o-rings when upgrading to CVDs. They are only needed for dog bones. Sorry to hear about your shopping transit times! I've waited a few week for stuff from China and man it sucks... I can only imagine that anything you have special order will take the same amount of time. I feel for you!

Haha... You got me. I'm going to need two. I can't believe I'm the last one to know about these! I've been waiting for someone to make a set for ages. Now the question is, do I wait until they pop up on eBay to order them from their eBay store? Or should I bite the bullet and get them from their website? The eBay store is usually cheaper and offers free shipping plus I'm not in any rush to get the WR8 back on the road. I'm still waiting for some more parts... I guess I'm going to wait. Damn I'm excited though!!

It not worth the money when you can get generic heading hold gyros for half the price! Save your money and search for cheaper alternatives. (I'll link you to something when I'm at home later and not on my phone). Anyway the heading hold gyros are pretty amazing little things. For stability they are like having the best wrc guy in your pocket, they will keep the car going where ever you point it. I used one on my sons car (he is legally blind) and it helped him drive it a lot better. He would always have trouble telling which direction the car was pointing after spinning out and now with the gyro it spins out a lot less and he seems to be enjoying it more and more. I'd say give it a shot. Let me find you a link for a cheaper generic one though ;-)

Woha! I was on their site today and I didn't notice those! All I have to say is NICE!!! I'm ordering a set now!

Oh yes! There is actually a good deal on ebay for a few sets of the non belted slicks. I'm tempted to buy them to see how bad they actually are. I'm sure they are not that bad but I'd love to do a comparison. Hehe! I've posted a few times on facebook about how much I want the Subaru body once it comes out. Hopefully my wife or my mom get the hint ;-) Good luck getting it yourself and congratulations! Marriage is really great when you find someone you can stand to be around ;-)

I'm pretty sure it was released the exact day KB released his next years livery ;-) So I'm pretty sure we will see the new bodies pretty soon. Now OTOH I'm still waiting to the GRC Bucky Lasek Subaru bodies to hit the stores here in the US. I'm tempted to order one from ModelSportUK for crying out loud!! If one of you guys bought one, painted it up and posted pictures for me to see I'd probably feel a little better about it.

lol! I know ;-) Keep us apprised of what happens with the seller. Hopefully they do you right! BTW for anyone looking you can grab a full front or rear diff from http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/ for a measly $13 of good ole' funny money =8-D Just hit up the Bullet MT/ST non flux section and order them up! For some reason they still don't price the same parts the same across models, they price them by the chassis. I've found a few good deals by looking around the site. Also yesterday they even had free shipping! You can try to use the "blackout" coupon to see if it still works. Yesterday I picked up 2 WR8 screw sets, 2 complete diff housings, and an extra set of body mounts for the bullet for like $49 shipped! It's a sweet deal compared to buying everything from the box stores.

Balls! So did you ordered the $11.79 set and only get 2? The description does say 4pcs... Hopefully the make it right.

It is great HPI is keeping the ball rolling with this chassis! It really makes me happy to see all the continued development... Now if they would just offer a set of darn CVDs I'd be *super* happy ;-)

For what it's worth 2639g fully loaded. Keep in mind this is with bigger tires, more shocks, longer control arms and a 3cell Lopo. And for our U.S. folks 5lb 13oz ;-)

I've been running the mmp 3800kv combo for over a year and a half now and mine runs the bomb diggity. I'm running 3s 100% of the time and I usually use a 16t pinion gear with the stock spur. My temp stayed right around 160f even during the dead of summer. Fully loaded the WR8 is right around the same weight as a 4wd sct. I'm not sure what your sales dude is talking about.

They look interesting... Using the same tire as the other cheap WR8 wheel sets. Not sure how sturdy the wheels are though. It would be interesting to them tested out.

That looks great! Nice job! I always recommend the Savox SC1268MG or something equivalent. It puts out 208 oz/in (14.9kg/cm if I did the conversion correct) of torque and turns 60 degrees in .13 seconds at 6v (which works pretty well with the stock ESC). It is a really great servo for the WR8. I'd also recommend upgrading to the thicker/stronger servo saver clip that comes as an optional part in the kit box or dropping $3.50USD for an alloy servo horn. If you do the later just be carful driving because it eliminated the servo saver ;-) Here is a video of it running the steering links on my WR8 converted to a Bullet: And here it is under real world conditions: It is just an awesome servo 8-) For Radios it is up to you but I'd try to go with something that has the FHSS (Frequency Hopping Spread Spectrum) vs the typical AFHDS (automatic frequency hopping digital system). The FHSS technology is more robust against interference vs the AFHDS technology. There are a lot of choices out there with both technologies but one of them I like a lot is the Radiolink RC3S or RC4G (the 4G has a built in gyro in the receiver). It also has FHSS technology and it is in the $50 range from a number of suppliers. The receivers are also in the $10 (non gyro) to $23 (Gyro version) so they are not too expensive. I liked the reviews so much I ordered one of the RC4G with 3 extra non gyro receivers and I'm waiting for them to come in. (I'll post a review when I get it). Other than that you look like you are on the right track with your car! What shock setup are you running there and how do you like it? Mike

It better be 300mm WB ;-)